Deepam Ardhanarishvara

[One can view enlarged versions of all the below photographs by clicking on them]

“By 5:00 in the evening of Krittika Deepam, the area surrounding the Temple flagpole, as well as the adjoining terrace, is packed. People are jostling to observe the dramatic arrival of five exquisitely decorated palanquins, carrying the Hindu Gods Vinayaka, Subramanya, Siva, Amba and Chandikeshwara. The devotees are constantly moving and adjusting their positions to get a better view and to make way for still more people pouring in.

Within about 30 minutes, five palanquins have arrived in all their spiritual pageantry. Now, we wait for the climax, the coming of Ardhanarishvara (Lord Siva as half man, half woman). This will occur immediately after the Krittika Deepam is lit. Everyone wants to be able to see the mountaintop. All eyes are looking up.

Finally, the appointed moment arrives. Against the backdrop of a sunset sky, crowned with the rising star of Kartika, thundering firecrackers, ringing Temple bells and a frenzy of rhythmic chanting merge to create a cacophony of chaotic splendour.

Camphor is lit in a cauldron by the Temple flag pole, signaling priests on top of the mountain to light their flame. The timing is perfectly synchronized. The air is charged as the overpowering sight of light, signifying Siva in the form of Jyoti (divine light), merges with Parvati to become Siva/Sakti.

Now, finally, Ardhanarishvara is brought out of the Temple with great ceremonial fanfare. This is the only day of the year that this particular Deity is ever moved. It is most auspicious.”

[abridged ‘Fire on the Mountain’]

A later post will try to explain the symbolism of Ardhanarishvara and its particular relevance at Arunachala Deepam in more detail.

Good News

Yesterday met up with a local professional photographer from whom I was able to get some wonderful photographs and footage of Deepam 2007. I will be posting alot of the material on this Blog over the next few weeks - so keep checking back.

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Deepam Lighting 2007

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Deepam Lighting Arunachala 2007

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10th Day - Arunachala Deepam

This afternoon left my home and headed for Sri Nannagaru Ashram to attend the festivities associated with the 10th day of the Deepam Festival. Decided to walk the back way through the hills and met up with a nice group of local farmers who were dressed in clothes for their upcoming pilgrimage to Lord Iyyapan at Sabrimala.

The other day when visiting the Arunachaleswarar Temple I bumped into a group of men dressed in light beige clothes. I asked them where they were going - and they told me that they were in fact 'coming' on pilgrimage from Palani (famous for Lord Murugan) to Tiruvannamalai.

In the same way traditions associated with Deepam are beginning to become entrenched in association with the Big Temple at Arunachala, so too, it seems like Tiruvannamalai is fast becoming the 'pilgrimage' destination of choice for many groups of sadhakas.

Beautiful pathway with Arunachala peeking behind the small hillock on the right. One of the neighbours dogs has decided to accompany me on my walk.

The Cattle Fair is so crowded, that some vendors have brought their cattle into the Hills.

The below is part of a shrine to Lord Munishwara, which has been recently built in this spot. Rather a fascinating looking idol!


After a pleasant walk in the afternoon's sun, I arrive at Sri Nannagaru Ashram. In the distance Chengam Road (which is part of the giripradakshina hillround roadway) is already packed with pilgrims performing their circumbulation of Arunachala.



The view of Arunachala from Sri Nannagaru Ashram.



And below Sri Nannagaru giving a spiritual discourse to his devotees. If you want to learn more about this Advaitic Master please check this link.

Sri Nannagaru hails from Andhra Pradesh and only visits us here at Arunachala about 4 times a year. When he comes he generally stays from between 7-10 days. His programme is not made a long time in advance but he traditionally visits Arunachala (which he regards as his Guru) over the Deepam period.

His speech is over and now some of his devotees are preparing a 'Deepam' inside the Ashram Compound, which will be kept alight while the light remains on top of Arunachala Hill.

Devotees sitting and waiting for the upcoming dusk and the lighting of Deepam.

It is now dusk and suddenly the light on top of Arunachala appears and you can hear the cheers and noise of crackers and fireworks resounding from all over Tiruvannamalai.

Later I go up on the roof of the Ashram and take a photograph of Arunachala outlined in the night sky. Through the haze one can see the glimmer of the Deepam light on top of the Hill.

And at Sri Nannagaru Ashram, devotees (left of photograph) are lighting little deepam lamps in front of a small Shrine and at the right the Ashram's own 'Deepam' is attracting the loving attention of devotees.

Wonderful afternoon enjoying Swamiji's presence and speech and later watching the Deepam festivities at Sri Nannagaru Ashram along with his devotees. After enjoying some very delicious prasad, I wandered up to Chengham Road to check out how crowded it is --- wall-to-wall people!

HAPPY AND JOYOUS DEEPAM TO ONE AND ALL AND MAY YOU ONE DAY COME AND EXPERIENCE THE JOYOUS DELIGHT OF DEEPAM AT THIS SACRED PLACE.

Deepam - First three days

November 12th: Sri Durgambal Urchavam, Night, Sri Durgambal on Kamadenu Vahanam

November 13th: Sri Pidari Urchavam, Night, Sri Pidariamman on Lion Vahanam

November 14th: Sri Vinayagar Urchavam, Night, Sri Vinayagar on Mooshiga Vahanam

* (Urchavam = Tamil word for temple festivals)
* (Kamadenu = wish fulfilling cow)
* (Vahanam = vehicle, seat)
* (Mooshiga = mouse)

Yesterday evening I performed giripradakshina around Arunachala and coming back through the town of Tiruvannamalai (during my hillround) I was able to enjoy the first night of Deepam Festival, namely, Sri Durgambal Urchavam.

The Deepam festival involves a lot more than just the lighting of the flame on top of Arunachala. The first night of the lighting of the flame actually takes place on the 10th day of Deepam and stays alight for between 8-10 days. However the Festival itself lasts for 13 days. Of these the first day is connected with the Durga Amman Temple. Each day denotes different functions and ceremonies at either the Durga Temple, the Annamalai Temple or in the streets surrounding them.

Deepam is a festival which traditionally is connected with the Hill and Arunachaleswarar Temple and Durga Amman Koil (Koil = Temple), is the only other Arunachala Temple that actually participates in the functions.

The reason for this is supposed to be because of the Goddess and the demon Mahisha (see 'The Fight with Mahishasura'). Before her battle the Goddess appointed four noble Bhairavis (celestial damsels) to keep watch on all four sides of Arunagiri. She ordered:

"Admit only those who have come to worship Arunachala and are tired, hungry and thirsty. Others should not enter. She then appointed strong men to guard the boundaries of Arunachala and continued Her penace at Her ashram." [The Glory of Arunachala]

For this reason, the first day of Deepam Festival is always a celebration of the Goddess, recognised as a Guardian of Arunachala.

The below sequence of photographs shows the procession of the Durga Statue seated on Kamadhenu (the wish fulfilling cow) and being taken on a clockwise procession from Durga Amman Temple around the perimeter streets of the 26 acre Arunachaleswarar Temple and thereafter returning back to her own Temple. As is always the case in such functions, the procession stops whenever people along the route make offerings.

This year 4 large screens have been installed around the Temple, and one giant screen inside, so that later days of the Festival can be seen by the greatest number of devotees.

The procession through the town plays a very important role in maintaining a living relationship with the ordinary folk going about their business throughout the day, who sometimes may not have sufficient opportunities to attend functions inside the Temple itself.

And in the below photograph, the Goddess seated on Kamadhenu, the cow.

The peacock feather, which is positioned just above the cows tail, denotes auspiciousness.

Here we are at the front of the Big Temple. The decorations have already been put up, and hopefully one evening I will climb part of the Hill to take nice photographs of just how beautiful the brightly lit Temple looks.

While accompanying the Goddess procession, I also took some wonderful photographs of the huge chariot - which will be used later during Deepam. You can get an idea of its size by noticing the man in front of the huge wooden wheels.

As we passed near the flower market, I noticed some cows scavenging through the debris and discarded flower garlands.

In the next photograph, the chariot has halted so that a devotee may present their offering to the priest to be offered up to the Goddess in the appropriate fashion.

And next the glorious Goddess.

Its nearly midnight and still some stragglers wait expectantly outside their homes so that they may take darshan of the Goddess and offer up their offerings.

I'm ready to make my way home so I have a quick chat with the friendly policeman helping with the procession and proceed homeward after a beautiful and inspirational evening.

I hope to post information and photographs of at least another couple of events connected with this years Deepam. So keep checking back for updates.

Its nearly here!

Over the next few weeks, I hope to post information about the upcoming Deepam Festival at Arunachala. There certainly will be plenty happening and soon spectacular light decorations on all nine Gopurams of Arunachaleswarar Temple will illuminate the huge Temple and surrounding 26 acre compound. The 10 day Festival offically begins with a flag hoisting ceremony which falls this year on November 15th. The actual lighting of the Deepam on top of Arunachala will occur at dusk on November 24th. It is said the Deepam is lit at the precise moment when the moon rises and the setting sun is still visible on the horizon. These elements, sun, moon and fire, symbolise the three eyes of Lord Siva (who is known as Somasuryagni-lochana).

Get out that welcome mat - the town will be bursting at the seams!

Getting Ready

Deepam 2007

A giant screen will be installed near the ‘Periya Nandhi’ inside Sri Arunachaleswarar Temple to help devotees watch the ‘Karthigai Deepam’ celebrations on November 24, 2007.

After a meeting of officials conducted to review arrangements for the Karthigai Festival, it was announced that the Temple Administration has provided four additional electricity connections at a cost of Rs. 9 lakh. The Subramania Swamy Temple Car has been renovated at a cost of Rs.7.5 lakh and a shelter built near the ‘Kili Gopuram’

at a cost of Rs. 2 lakh. Renovation of the ‘Theerthavari Mandapam’ and the ‘Kalyana Sundareswarar Mandapam’ is under way at a cost of Rs.20 lakh.

The Transport Department has been asked to ensure that there are no problems between drivers of Tamil Nadu State Transport Corporation and those of private buses in commencing services after the lighting of the ‘Deepam’ on November 24th, 2007. The Transport Department and the TNSTC have been urged to relax regulations on departure timings. The Department of Fire and Rescue Services are to station a fire engine near the temporary ‘pandals’ and shops in front of the eastern ‘Rajagopuram.’