Some Favoured Arunachala Temples and Shrines

Some who perform Arunachala girivalam like to go around the Hill in silence and without stopping. Others like to stop at favourite shrines and lingams along the way. I prefer the former method, and enjoy silent circumambulation. However to view favoured Shrines I frequently take a vehicle to visit certain Temples. 

There are a number of fascinating Shrines and Temples which are located a little way off the main girivalam roadway, so do not attract the same number of visitors, but are very well worth a visit.

Below are some of my own favourite spots which are not as well visited as the more famous Girivalam shrines:

1. Balaji Temple. A Temple still under development. But with a completed major Shrine room dedicated to Lord Venkateshwara. This Temple with large grounds has an interesting selection of other Shrines including: Lord Hanuman, Goddesses Kali and Durga, Lord Sani with Kettu and Raghu, the Snake Goddess.

Balaji (Sri Venkateshwara) Temple from distance

2. Pachaiamman Temple. The Temple is beginning to attract larger crowds than previously. It is particularly interesting because of its legends connected with the Goddess Parvarti and its huge Guardian Statues. 

Guardians to the Goddess at Pachaiamman Temple

3. Esanya Ashram (located across from Esanya Lingam) located on the alternate girivalam pathway, parallel to the main roadway. The Ashram contains the Samadhi of the great Saint.

Samadhi of great saint Isanya Desikar

Below is a very nice story about how the famed Saint Isanya Desikar helped his British devotee Ayton, overcome dangers in his efforts to safely attend a Deepam Festival. 

The story goes thus:- 

Isanya Desikar, whose math is located just outside Tiruvannamalai on the old pradakshina road, was a distinguished yogi who, like many before and after him, felt the spiritual call of Arunachala. He was born in 1750 in a small village called Rayavelur in northern Tamil Nadu. He came and settled at the foot of Arunachala only late in his life, but nevertheless, by virtue of his intense and personal relationship with Arunachaleswara, he is regarded as one of the major saints of Arunachala. 

Isanya Desikar had a western devotee, who is now recalled by the name of Ayton. He was the then District Collector for the region that extended from Tiruvannamalai to Vriddhachalam. Ayton had heard about the greatness of Isanya Desikar and approached him in the hope of getting a cure from the tuberculosis from which he had been suffering for many years. 

Isanya Desikar smiled and after a brief pause spat on the ground. The moment he spat, Ayton was cured of the disease. Ayton then spoke to the holy man with both trepidation and devotion. 'Swami, I have recently acquired a large amount of land, I would like to offer your holiness as much as you need. It can be a permanent endowment in your name.' Isanya Desikar smiled and asked tauntingly, 'Will your land yield crops even during a drought?' Then, pointing his finger towards Arunachaleswara and Apeetakuchamba, he added, 'Here is a householder with two children and a large family. It is proper to give him any amount of land, but it is not proper to gift it to me, a sannyasin.' 

Ayton took leave of him but returned on many occasions. He got into the habit of addressing him reverentially and affectionately as 'Tata', which means 'grandfather'. It is said that before he began any new project he would always mediate on Isanya Desikar and invoke his blessing by saying, 'Tata, please lead me in this work. It is your work.' At Deepam Festivals Ayton would take the lead in dragging the huge temple chariot through the streets of Tiruvannamalai. However, before moving the chariot for the first time he would pick up one of the ropes and exclaim loudly: 'Tata, you hold the rope and lead us!' The local people were all astounded that such a prominent British official should have such devotion towards a naked sannyasin. Ayton made it a point always to attend and lead this annual festival, but one year he found himself stranded by floods on the southern side of the River Pennar just before the beginning of the festival. Knowing that he was expected to be at Arunachala to start the chariot on its journey, he called out to his mount: 'Horse, I must see Tata and I must also get the Deepam Festival started. Think of Tata and cross the river!' Without a moment's delay or hesitation, the horse leapt into the raging torrent of water and effortlessly waded to the other side. None of the other people who were stranded dared to follow for they were all convinced that it would be suicidal to enter the surging waters. 

At the moment when Ayton put his faith in Tata and leapt into the water, Isanya Desikar opened his eyes after a long meditation and stretched out his hand in a southerly direction. When one of his disciples asked what he was doing, he replied, 'If someone falls into a river, should we not save him?' 

Ayton arrived safely and took Isanya Desikar's blessings to start the festival. When the news of Ayton's spectacular river crossing and Isanya Desikar's role in it spread among the Deepam crowds, many of them came to the north-eastern side of the hill to see the man who had been responsible for the miracle. Several of the new visitors turned out to be mature seekers who were looking for guidance from a Guru. Isanya Desikar accepted some as disciples, had a small thatched shed built to accommodate them and gave instruction by writing a guide to liberation entitled Jnana Kattalai.

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4. Adi Kamakshi Temple. One of the most ancient Temples at Arunachala located in a road close to Durga Amman Temple.

Front entrance of ancient Adi Kamakshi Temple

The Goddess at this Temple has a Lingam close to her Heart

5. Pavala Kundru. Located on a hill spur almost directly behind the famed Durga Amman Temple off the girivalam roadway.

Pavala Kundru Temple located on Arunachala Spur

6. Arunagirinathar Temple. Located a couple of blocks east of the Arunachaleswarar Temple’s Raja Gopuram.

Arunagirinathar Temple, third most ancient Arunachala Siva Temple

7. Kamakshi Temple. Off Thiruvoodal Street. This Goddess Kamakshi Temple is more recent than the Adi Kamakshi Temple. 

It is famous as a wish-fulfilling Shrine, and it also one of the 6 Temples at Arunachala that have steles (of Shiva and Parvati), and are believed to be part of an “Om” energetic field. 

I will write further on the six Om Temples [Parvati Temple, Niruddhi Lingam, Palani Andavar Temple, Esanya Lingam, Arunachaleswarar Temple and Kamakshi Temple (Thiruvoodal Street)].

Aarti at Pavala Kundru

The below photographs are of Pavala Kundru (Coral Rock) Shrine, situated on a spur of Arunachala. The current Temple dates from not earlier than the end of 18th Century, as historical records date the destruction of the original Shrine by the forces of Tippu Sultan to have occurred in 1790. 

View of Temple from main road towards bus stand

The opening hours of the Temple are somewhat erratic, and this week was the first time in about six visits, that I visited at a time that the Shrine was actually open. This was particularly satisfying as one has to climb 150 steps on the side of the slope to reach the Temple. 

Beginning of a long, steep trek

A fascinating stele in a shrine on the side of the walkway

A beautiful Nandi statue on the side of the walkway

Side view of Temple

Nandi in front of Temple, facing the Lingam in Shrine Room

Nandi front of Temple. Board with information about Sri Ramana

The Temple was recently renovated with the support of Shantimalai Trust and Ramana Ashram. 

Outside the front door of the Temple is a board placed by the Ashram, which reads: 

The first instruction imparted by Sri Ramana Maharshi was to his Mother at Pavala Kundru in 1899: 

"The ordainer controls the fate of souls in accordance with their past deeds. Whatever is destined not to happen will not happen; try how hard you may. Whatever is destined to happen will happen. Do what you may to stop it. This is certain. The best course, therefore, is for one to be silent.” 

North Side Arunachaleswarar Temple from Pavala Kundru

Ardhanariswarar

Puja at Shrine of Pavalagiriswarar and Ardhanariswarar

One of the most unique features of the current Temple is that there is both the Pavalagiriswarar Lingam and a statue of Ardhanariswarar in the Shrine room. 

Goddess Muttambikai

 

In a nook outside the main shrine room there is a statue of the Goddess Muttambikai, and to the right of that nook is a tiny room in which Sri Ramana Maharshi used to meditate during his six month stay at this Temple. 

View of Arunachala from Pavala Kundru

Unique view of Pavala Kundru on Arunachala spur

I hope to be soon posting more detailed information about the history and mythology of this unique Temple on my website Arunachala Samudra. But for now, as well as some photographs, have also uploaded a short video of aarti being performed in the main Shrine Room. 

Pavala Kundru Temple adjacent to Arunachaleswarar Temple

To compose the previous post “Home at Last!” on Arunachala Grace, I spent time sorting through photographs of the Big Temple to find one taken in the inside of the Raja Gopuram. Whilst sorting through my collection of snaps thought it might be interesting to post the below photograph, which is a panoramic view of the Temple and surrounds taken from upstairs inside the Raja Gopuram.

Photo of Big Temple and right side Pavala Kundru Hillock and Temple

As well as being a very beautiful photograph, what makes it even more fascinating is the small hillock at the right bottom of the photograph. On top of which is the Pavala Kundru Temple of which many fascinating legends abound. 

For the purpose of this posting, I post the below history. 

In 1790 Tippu Sultan captured Tiruvannamalai over-riding the Treaty of Mangalore (1784 A.D.) in which he and the English agreed to mutual restoration of conquests and exchange of prisoners. Tippu Sultan attacked Thiagadurga Fort (30 miles south of Tiruvannamalai). The whole population of the surrounding region took refuge in this fort. 

Activated by the news from Thiagadurga and apprehending attack, the inhabitants of Tiruvannamalai collected arms and men to defend themselves till British reinforcements arrived. When Tippu Sultan attacked Tiruvannamalai, its inhabitants put up a brave resistance but were compelled to surrender in the end. Tippu Sultan, it is said, occupied the hillock of Pavalakundru after destroying the small shrine that was there. His solders, it seems, were cruel to the people of the town but strangely the Temple of Sri Arunachala was left untouched, barring a single cannon shot that was fired at it. The missile seems to have hit a part of the northern wall causing minimal damage. After camping there for some weeks, Tippu Sultan and his army left Tiruvannamalai.

Pavala Kundru Temple on Hillock

If you mentally delete all the recent construction between the Pavalakundru Hillock and Arunachaleswarar Temple, it is easy to visualise the invading Tippu Sultan army camped on the Hillock with their army and canons, raining their shot down upon the outside of the northern wall of the Arunachaleswarar Temple compound. 

A gun belonging to Tippu Sultan was found buried near the hillock where he had camped. It was taken and placed in a museum in Madras. Ramana Maharshi said that whatever Temple might have existed on or about Pavalakundru seemed to have disappeared probably on account of Tippu Sultan’s invasion. The present Temple was probably built only a hundred and fifty years ago. 

Deepavali Blessings from the Goddess at Arunachala

WISHING ALL, GRACE AND LIGHT DURING
THIS JOYOUS FESTIVAL

Lord Arunachaleswarar and Goddess Unamulai

Goddess Shrine at Arunachaleswarar Temple

Goddess Rajarajeshwari,
Shrine on Girivalam Roadway

Goddess Rajarajeshwari

Goddess Durga Amman Temple

Goddess Periyar Karuamman Temple

Pavala Kundru Temple, Arunachala Hill Spur

Goddess Pachaiamman Temple,
South East Arunachala

Bullock Cart Hill Rounding

On Tuesday, February 10th, I performed a very nice hill round with a group of visitors from France and Belgium. All the group of eighteen members, except for the leaders Dominique Vincent and his companion Rahina, were visiting Tiruvannamalai for the first time. They leave this area on Friday, February 13th to continue their fascinating Indian tour. I hope to tell you more about their adventures and impressions in the upcoming Arunachala Grace Newsletter – which will be sent out to subscribers inboxes after Mahashivaratri.

Anyhow that Tuesday morning I arrived with two bullock carts (each with two bulls) early at Arunai Anantha Hotel. Already the days are getting warm, so we wanted to make an early start to avoid spending the afternoon in the sun. Everyone wrapped up nicely to venture out in the chilly early morning.

First off we stopped at Nirudhi Lingam (the SW Asta Lingam) so we could look at the descriptive lingam map painted on the outside of the Lingam Shrine. During the course of the morning we did in fact visit: Nirudhi Lingam, Varuna Lingam, Asta Lingam, Kubera Lingam and Yama Lingam.

Our next port of call was the favourite Kannapar Temple.

“There is a Temple built at the foot of Arunachala, off the pradakshina route, on a rock dedicated to Sri Kannappar. Kannappar who was one of the sixty-three Nayanars (Tamil Poet-Saints) whose lives are recorded in the Periya Puranam (Lives of the Saints). The actual story of Kannappa Nayanar is supposed to have taken place at a Hill Temple in Sri Kalahasti, near Tirupathi.

The story goes that there was a forest place called Uduppur. It was an isolated area populated by fierce villagers. Nagan and Tatthai had a great desire for a child but as they were old had to go to a shrine of Lord Murugan to receive his blessings before they were able to conceive. A son was soon born to them who they named Thinnan (meaning strong), because he was so powerful and heavy that even his father could hardly hold him up.” To read further go to this link here.

You can get an idea of the way the Temple is constructed with Arunachala as its rocky foundation.

Its interesting to view the progress of the developing Swami Nithyananda’s Ashram from the vantage point of Kannapar Temple.

The below photograph was taken from the Panchamuka shrine from where one can see the five faces of Arunachala. R. Henninger in his interesting book ‘Arunachala – Holy Hill,’ remarks that the faces are:

Top dedicated to Ishana – Pure Crystal

East dedicated to Tat Purusha – Yellow, the face

South dedicated to Agoram – Black, the heart

North dedicated to Vamadeva – Red, the navel

West dedicated to Sadyojatha – White, the foot

This part of the hillround roadway was quite peaceful and the bullocks were moving along quite perky and unstressed. We had already fed them with some bananas during a stopover, and they were co-operating quite earnestly.

We definitely had to stop at the Idukku Pillayar Shrine and test the legend that those who succeed in passing through the narrow passage while uttering a wish, will have that wish fulfilled. Well just about all of the group went through the opening – so they will be able to test the wish-fulfilment part first hand. Anyhow all the group had a good laugh.

Once we got near the Tiruvannamalai Bus Stand, traffic started to get heavy and the bullock drivers really needed to concentrate and put their power into guiding the bullocks. It was a hair raising experience for us – can’t imagine what it was like for the poor bullocks.

It was getting hot and late and the roads were busy with traffic. Deciding time was too short to make the hike up the Hill to visit Pavala Kundru, we instead visited the beautiful Durga Amman Koil and from there we could look up and also see part of the 'Jewel of the Hill,' (i.e. Pavala Kundru).

Both these Temples are associated with famous stories of Arunachala connected with the Goddess. And it is this area which is believed to be the place that Shiva and the Goddess joined and became the manifestation known as Ardhanisvara (half-man, half-woman).

Durga Amman Temple

Durga Amman Temple is believed to have originated from the episode of the Goddess killing the demon Mahishasura. In the Puranas, we read that after having killed the Demon, a lingam adhering to his neck when taken by the Goddess remained welded to the palm of her hand. Durga then went to the place that is now situated in the compound of the Durga Amman Temple. The area was dry, but she dug a hole with her sword and water gushed forth. When she took a bath, the lingam came off her hand and Durga started worshipping it.

The Goddess remained and bestowed her favours on her devotees. Since then, the sacred tank has had a regular water inflow. It is at this Temple that great celebrations take place in honour of Durga during the days of Navaratri and Dasara – which symbolise the victory of the Goddess over evil.

Durga Amman Temple foreground,
Pavala Kundru background at top left

Pavala Kundru

Pavala Kundru (The Jewel of the Hill) is a beautiful Temple located on the top of a giant rock In Puranic mythology Rishi Gautama received the Goddess Parvati at this spot when she came to Arunachala to do penance and it is here it is believed she constructed her own Ashram

To read vignettes and stories about Puranic mythology of Arunachala go to this link here and this link here.

Pavala Kundru through the trees

In more contemporary times Ramana Maharshi lived in one of the two small rooms located at the side of the Temple.

Well we made it back to the Arunai Anantha Hotel where the group are staying. Bullock hillround took nearly six hours and the four bulls did a sterling job. Now they can digest their bananas and take a cooling rest before they head on home and the end of their day's work. Thanks fellas.

Pavala Kundru History

On my way from Tiruvannamalai Bus Stand to Ramana Nagar whilst going through the business end of town, I took the below photograph of one of my favourite Tiruvannamalai Temples, Pavala Kundru (i.e. Jewel of the Hill). This revered Temple has a fascinating history which starts with the legend of Goddess Parvati and her time on the Hill whilst performing tapas. In recent times Pavala Kundru is associated with Ramana Maharshi’s stay at the Temple. Currently there is a dispute underway regarding construction on the adjacent Coral Hill. But probably the most charming recent assocation of the Temple is its colony of beautiful Langur Monkeys.

View from Town

History of Pavala Kundru

“In 1790 Tippu Sultan captured Tiruvannamalai over-riding the Treaty of Mangalore (1784 A.D.) in which he and the English agreed to mutual restoration of conquests and exchange of prisoners. Tippu Sultan attacked Thiagadurga Fort (30 miles south of Tiruvannamalai). The whole population of the surrounding region took refuge in this fort.

Activated by the news from Thiagadurga and apprehending attack, the inhabitants of Tiruvannamalai collected arms and men to defend themselves till British reinforcements arrived. When Tippu Sultan attacked Tiruvannamalai, its inhabitants put up a brave resistance but were compelled to surrender in the end. Tippu Sultan, it is said, occupied the hillock of Pavalakkunru after destroying the small shrine that was there. His solders, it seems, were cruel to the people of the town but strangely the Temple of Sri Arunachala was left untouched, barring a single cannon shot that was fired at it. The missile seems to have hit a part of the northern wall causing minimal damage. After camping there for some weeks, Tippu Sultan and his army left Tiruvannamalai.

Location of Temple on a Arunachala Hillock

A gun belonging to Tippu Sultan was found buried near the hillock where he had camped. It was taken and placed in a museum in Madras. Ramana Maharshi said that whatever Temple might have existed on or about Pavalakkunru seemed to have disappeared probably on account of Tippu Sultan’s invasion. The present Temple was probably built only a hundred and fifty years ago.”

Patala Lingam

On a recent visit to Arunachaleswarar Temple I noticed some great photographs on the walls of the Patala Lingam. It was in the cellar of the Lingam, that Ramana performed severe tapas, remaining in samadhi and totally oblivious to the wretchedness of his living conditions amongst scorpions and fireants.

The first photogaph is of the beautiful Pali Thirtam, which is the tank adjacent to Sri Ramana Ashram.

The below shows you the condition of the Patala Lingam during the 1940's before renovation.

And now the Patala Lingam after renovation.

Another photograph on the walls of the Patala Lingam, is a narrative recording the life of Bhagavan Sri Ramana and Tiruvannamalai. For those of you who haven't yet visited Tamil Nadu, I've left part of the Tamil translation, so you can see what the Tamil script looks like.

Below a photograph taken up at the caves on Arunachala, of the young Sri Ramana Maharshi at the age of 21.

Next is a split photograph, the top half being of Ayanakulam Tank (which is the tank that Sri Ramana disrobed when he came to Arunachala) and the bottom half of the photograph is of Pavala Kundru - one of the most beautiful Shakti Temples at Arunachala. It is the place that Parvati was meant to have lived whilst performing tapas at Arunachala. In more recent times, it is the place that Sri Ramana was living, when his Mother arrived at Tiruvannamalai.

The last photograph is of the top half Skandashram and the bottom Virupaksha Caves. Virupaksha Cave has a long history and was often inhabitated by saints and sages, including Sri Ramana Maharshi. But Skandashram is an original and was actually a labour of love constructed by a devotee name Skanda (thus Skandashram) for his Guru, Sri Ramana.

Arunachaleswarar Temple, with its huge 25 acre compound is replete with history - a fascinating and inspirational Temple to visit and spend time, again and again.