22 February 2009

Shivaratri Festival


I am reproducing below a narrative compiled by William Forbes that explains the mythology of Shivaratri and also the grand association of the
Pashupatinath (Lord of Animal Life) Temple at Kathmandu, Nepal. For more information about Shivaratri -- The Eternal Festival and more about this Temple, check out this earlier posting. To find out more about Shivaratri and also specifically how it is celebrated at other significant Shiva stalams, read on.

"This year, on the 23rd of February, Mahashivaratri is celebrated throughout India, Nepal, and the world, by devotees of Lord Shiva. Mahashivaratri means "the great night of Shiva". It is celebrated on the 14th night of the waning moon, (the dark moon night before the new moon), during the month of Phalgun. There are a number of legends connected with the origin of Shivaratri. One is that Goddess Parvati and Lord Shiva were married on this day.

This is also the day that Lord Shiva appeared as a luminous Jyotirlingam before Brahma and Vishnu. All the twelve Jyotirlingams of Bharat (India) are said to have manifested on this day.



Jyotir Lingam Stalams


The Shiva Purana relates a story of Maha Shivaratri's glory –


In ancient times, a Bheel (forest inhabitant) named Gurudruha trudged through a forest to hunt deer. At night, without having sighted a single animal, he climbed a Bilva (Aegle marmelos) tree on the banks of a lake. Later at night, a doe arrived to drink water. Gurudruha aimed his bow and arrow at her. While aiming, he unknowingly dropped some Bilva leaves and his drinking water below on a Shivalingam that happened to be under the tree. The deer then requested him to allow her to entrust her fawns to her husband, after which she would return. After much haggling he agreed.


While awaiting her return, he stayed awake by aimlessly plucking leaves and dropping them below. Again they fell on the Shivalingam. Thus he unknowingly performed its puja (worship) while remaining awake all night. Finally the doe returned with her family, She informed him that along with her, he'd have to kill her family too. As he aimed, some more leaves fluttered down on the Shivalingam.


The collective punya (spiritual merit) accrued from the puja performed unknowingly, eradicated all his sins. This purified his heart. Repenting his flawed life of sin, he set the deer free. As he sat repenting, Lord Shiva manifested in front of him and granted him a boon, "You shall be born in a town known as Shrungver, as a man named Gruha. Lord Vishnu will grace your home as Lord Rama and redeem you." (This event is described in the Ramayana.) Shiva also blessed the deer, which attained a better destiny.


On this day it is easy to please Lord Shiva by fasting and prayer. The main prayer is usually conducted during the night. Ever three hours the devotee worships Lord Shiva in the form of a Shiva Lingam. the Lingam is bathed with milk, ghee, honey, curd, rose water, etc. Lord Shiva is also greatly pleased by the offering of Bilva leaves. One also devotes time to chanting the Vedic Rudram, or the five-syllable mantra of Shiva - Om Namah Shivaya - and to meditating on Him, by remembering one's ultimate goal, which is God Realization, the purpose of human birth. Ascending to the top of Mount Kailash within oneself, and trying to experience the presence of God Shiva within as one's very own self, and simultaneously as the Universal Self permeating the entire universe, one draws close to Lord Shiva. on this night.


For more than a week before and after Shivaratri, the area around Pashupatinath Temple is transformed into a mammoth fair of sorts, with food stalls, pavement markets and clusters of temporary shelters where life-styles and human activities of a mind-boggling variety can be witnessed. Colorful costumes of the many different ethnic and tribal pilgrims from India sporting intriguing headgear, ranging from turbans to towels around the scalp; long flowing dresses, pantaloons and loin cloths, along with the women's colorful sarees, all form a fascinating contrast to the many Sadhu-Babas and Yogis in their birthday suits. People fill the roads - holy men, some half clad, some covered in ash but entirely nude; pilgrims in their distinct and colorful tribal costumes; vendors selling practically everything from vermilion powder, Rudraksha beads, monkey nuts, to Coca Cola and snacks. Foreign tourists also form part of this vast collection of humanity.



Pashupatinath Temple, Katmandu, Nepal


During Shivaratri, the temple of Pashupatinath, dedicated to Lord Shiva, becomes all spruced up in anticipation of the arrival of Sadhus, Yogis and other holy men as well as the hundreds of thousands of devout Hindu pilgrims. All devout Hindus believe that a visit to the holy Pashupatinath temple will absolve them of all past sins and the preference to make this pilgrimage during the time of Shivaratri, and assure them of a good human birth in their next life.


Hindu sadhu burns cowdung cakes to perform some holy rituals in the revered Pashupati area in Kathmandu. Hundreds of devotees from different parts of Nepal and India have been coming to the area to celebrate Maha Shivaratri festival that falls on February 23rd.



On the day of Mahashivaratri, people gather on the hillside across the river from the Pashupatinath temple as well as around the vicinity of the temple complex in groups around campfires and in makeshift shelters, singing Bhajans, reciting Sanskrit verses, discussing various religious topics while maintaining a fast and a vigil in anticipation of the religious ceremonies. Marijuana smoking mendicants, many with long matted tresses, dot the area, serene and trance-like, emulating Lord Shiva himself, in their consumption of the sacred herb, either by smoking it in clay chillum pipes, or by eating bhang.


At midnight Shivaratri festival officially begins with the priests inside the main temple making offerings of the auspicious Pancha Amrit to the Lingam of Lord Shiva. All day and throughout the night, devotees in an almost never-ending stream, file through the gates of the main temple to sprinkle milk, flowers, coins and rice offerings on the Lingam of Lord Shiva to be followed by a ritualistic bath in the river every few hours as dictated by the rituals.


At about six o'clock in the morning priests start the recitation of sacred texts which can be heard for miles around being amplified through loud-speakers strategically spread all over the Pashupatinath temple complex. This chanting of prayers continues till mid-day followed by the singing of Bhajans. The mammoth turnout of pilgrims is such, that devotees and believers are still involved in the elaborate religious activities many days after the actual night of fasting. As is inevitable after a period of fasting, there is the ritual partaking of food and sweetmeats following the festivities of Shivaratri. Naturally there are vast numbers of food-stalls selling many varieties of food and sweets.


Sadhus


For the devout Hindus who come from far away to experience the Shivaratri festivities and take a dip in the holy waters of the Bagmati river, it is often a once-in-a-lifetime experience.


For non-Hindus, Shivaratri offers a fascinating insight into a very important religious event as well an opportunity to see diverse cultures, peoples and costumes with the most gawked at and photographed being the Hindu holy men - the Sadhus and Yogis, smeared in ash, their foreheads striated with many different and intriguing designs under many different types of hair-do. Completely naked ascetics, with rings in their genitals roam through the crowds, mindless of the stares and glances and to the intense cold of the Himalayan winter, having mastered their minds to withstand the heat, cold and inhibition of all types."

20 February 2009

Mahashivaratri: Story of an Eternal Festival


I am reproducing below an excellent article written in the seventies by Dadaji for the now defunct Values magazine. This narrative explores one of the most important festivals in the calendar for sadhus, the great night of Shiva, which in 2009 falls on Monday, February 23rd.

“Every week throughout the year, one day is sacred to the Lord Shiva, but once a year a day is set aside as Mahashivaratri - the Great Festival of Shiva. It is a moveable festival, kept on the fourteenth day of the dark fortnight of the lunar month of Phalguna.

Once celebrated on a vast scale throughout India, it now only sees peak performance at two places, separated by a considerable distance as well as a border. The best celebration to be witnessed is at the Pashupatinath (Lord of Animal Life) Temple at Kathmandu, Nepal.




The other is celebrated on the Teleti, the sacred area at the base of Mount Girnar in Saurashtra. Because politics have tended to separate Nepal and India, this has encouraged Girnar to develop more and more.





The great cluster of seven peaks which suddenly push themselves up from the extensive flat area below makes them a unique sight from a distance. The journey to their peaks displays an even more wonderful sight. Two Europeans who wrote much about India during the days of British rule, described Girnar as "Not only the most wonderful sight in India, but in the whole world."

A few days before Mahashivaratri, a vast number of sadhus make their way to the secret spot and crowd the many ashrams on the Teleti for the great midnight scene. It is here that one can see a large number of naked saints, the very epitomes of the Nivritti Marga or Path of Renunciation which they have chosen. The Naga sect come here in vast numbers and this is one time and place where practically all sects meet in concord. Nudity is here held in highest regard. Even sadhus who wear langotis or small loin cloths, drop the curtain on this occasion; let the microcosm be as the macrocosm.

In those happy blissful carefree days of ancient India, long before the Vedic Aryans came to disturb the verdant scene, the Lord Shiva reigned supreme with his consort, not only throughout the whole great sub-continent of Jambudvipa, but in many distant places of the world. It was here on this soil of India that men and women developed what was probably the earliest true religion, culture and way of life. We know from unquestionable proof that this Shiva-Shakti culture was flourishing more than five thousand years ago (7000 BC) and can rightfully conjecture that it must have had a history which began much earlier. Traces of this very ancient cult can be found in every religion which has appeared on the earth. Even today, in this ultra-modern age and miraculously escaping Christian suppression or destruction, there are still a vast number of the Phallic-Pashupati cults still existing in Europe.

There is considerable opinion that the indigenous people of India prior to the Aryan immigration were a dark-skinned people. If this is so it is certainly strange that their God and Goddess were both described in countless texts as white-skinned. The Dakshinamurti Upanishad, probably itself a text rewritten from older oral traditions, describes Shiva as "The Lord sitting cross legged whose hair is matted and adorned with the shining crescent moon, whose body is white as milk and who has three eyes." Here we have a description similar to the figures of the Mohenjadaro and Harappa seals. This is also the prototype of the yogi and the contemplative, but although a relative symbol and form, it was also, to these early Indian Pagans, the living manifestation of the real Shiva as Absolute whom Indus Valley inscriptions describe as "The Supreme Being who exists by itself." These concepts still exist today.

To make relative comparisons, for clarity, Shiva assumes different values according to the disciple. Shiva is not a name but a quality and means Auspicious or the Auspicious One. To a few, Shiva is Paramatman, Brahman, the Absolute, but many more prefer to see Shiva as a personal God given to compassion for his worshippers, and the dispenser of both spiritual and material blessings. Related to the Absolute concept is Shiva as Yoganath, the Lord of Yoga, wherein he becomes teacher, path and goal. As such he is the Adi Guru or Highest Guru of sannyasins who have renounced the world to attain the Absolute.

In the vast pantheon of Indian gods, great and small, Shiva possesses a mixture of the weird and wonderful and even brings a strange equipoise and harmony to fantastic patterns and symbols.

Modern artists now dress Shiva in leopard skins and coloured clothes to make the Absolute respectable. Most go so far as to hang a sacred Brahmin thread on a God who flourished in India thousands of years before a single Brahmin entered! Let us thank Shiva that Shiva can stand all this and more. The texts which describe Shiva cannot be modernised or overwashed with Christian respectability so easily. Let us examine one of them.

Among the many priceless gems in the Bhagavatam, there are many cases where the non-Vedic or Tantric deities have been changed into the name of the Vaishnava God Vishnu. In many stories this was too easy, but some texts are so detailed in their relationship with Shiva that a change was not possible. One such story tells of the Sage Kasyapa who married Diti, one of Daksha's daughters, and therefore the sister of Sati, the wife of Shiva. It would appear that Kasyapa gave too much attention to his strict disciplines and performance of sacrifices. Diti would be neglected no longer and went to her husband and demanded he perform the ancient ritual which gave women children.

Kasyapa saw the justice of the demand and promised to give her satisfaction in the love duel, but that moment was not suitable and she must wait a little for complete darkness. This was in accord with the ancient traditional beliefs that Shiva roamed the earth at the three sacred periods of sunrise, noon and sunset. It would be inauspicious if the Lord spied two people copulating at the time when they should be engaged in the rituals of worship. Kasyapa explains in a wonderful passage, which throws much light on both Shiva and his qualities, as well as aspects of life which did not meet with his approval.

"This is the sunset hour, when the Lord Shiva, riding on Nandi, the sacred bull, moves about the world with his retinue. He, the Lord Shankara, sees all with his three eyes. There is none like him in the whole universe and He has no equal. Those who wish to break through the veil of ignorance emulate His divine qualities. He who is the goal of the righteous, is seen in that wild appearance which He has seen fit to adopt, to teach the path of Self realization.

"Miserable creatures adorn the body with rich dresses and costume although it is only fit to be food for dogs. Thus adorned and embellished with flowers and cosmetics, they mistake the body to be the real Self. Seeing Shiva completely naked, smeared with ashes, wearing a necklace of skulls and having matter hair thick with dust, they laugh at Reality -- Supreme Shiva -- not understanding that His purpose is to teach them the useless nature of the body and treat it indifferently. Shiva spurns the wealth and power which pitiful human beings expect as a reward for religious devotion and piety. He alone is the cause of the universe and Maya (delusion) is His slave. He is the Absolute, Perfect Being and His ways are inscrutable."

The pre-Aryan people had the intelligence to realise that if you projected the Absolute as a male figure, it could be represented as a female figure also. People must have found creation more easily understood in terms of cosmic copulation, a male and female principle bringing things into being, as a yang-yin of Chinese thought. This was easily understood for it was the natural process of their own lives. They did not think of the plausibility of cosmic weavers and tailors and so God and Goddess were both naked. They could not suspect that anything created by the Divine was dirty or improper, but rather saw the most fitting symbols of the God and Goddess in terms of penis and womb (lingam and yoni; the yoni is the womb and not the external female sexual organ). They saw the whole universe as a great womb in which worlds were born and came to being.

When we muse on the vast world of philosophies, ideas and dreams, sacred as well as insane, social, political and scientific, we see the struggle of men to think and not build up ghosts which only vanish in the dust. One day, perhaps, mankind will find that the oldest was really the ultimate and in his search for immortality he must return to where he started.

Now we can see that a Divine Guru, not only teaches us in terms of a doctrine of practical instructions, but by the way he lives. Thus millions of Indians have seen the manifest form of Shiva as their guide on the path.

One of the early traditions and one of the world's most ancient, is Shiva in the form of Dakshinamurti - the South-Facing Guru. In this form, seated on a low platform, with one leg hanging down in front, he communicated the Sanatana Dharma or Eternal Wisdom to the four Kumaras who appeared early in creation. The Guru spoke no words but taught them by the transmission of mind-to-mind, thus giving us an early example of what was to become a popular concept in Zen. Its purpose was to show that man can realise the Absolute when the human mind is in complete equipoise with the Cosmic Mind.

There is a Hindu scripture called The Thousand Names of Shiva. Dakshinamurti is one of them. Actually none of them are really names in the sense that we generally use the word. They are all rather qualities or descriptions. They are spread throughout India as names of temples or sacred places. One of the oldest Upanishads refers to Shiva as Kalagni-Rudra (Rudra the Lord of Fire and Time). Rudra has many meanings and could by Ruddy or the Howler. Shiva as Rudra managed to work his way into the most sacred of the Aryan Vedas, the Rig-Veda, though the references are not too flattering. But that is of no matter. Enemies will often, if not always, describe us more accurately than will our friends. When Daksha crossed swords with Shiva, his son-in-law, we get a much franker description of Shiva than might come from a respectable devotee. This description is not only one which could also be applied to the greater saints of India but might have real meaning to the dropout of today. Here we quote briefly. The full story must come later.

Standing in the centre of the vast assembly of gods and men, Daksha pointed his bony, ghee-soaked finger at Shiva, his son-in-law, and uttered this terrible denunciation:

"Loo-ook at Him. A disgrace to this assembly and one who brings discredit to the Gods. Is he not the laziest and most nonproductive one who refuses to work or undertake duties? By him the righteous path of Veda is tarnished. He has married my daughter in the presence of Agni, Brahmins and relatives, yet is devoid of the respect he should show as my son-in-law. He does not think of himself as my son and when he sees me he does not salute me or inquire about my welfare. Instead, he remains silent and closes his eyes like a monkey.

"Loo-ook at him! He has no modesty or sense of shame and comes here, just as he walks about, completely naked and smeared with the ashes he has taken from cremation grounds. His associates are lunatics, drunkards and madmen. His very retinue are really ghosts, devils and spirits. Lord indeed! he is only the lord of lazy servants who deny proper service and responsibility to their masters. His decorations are evil creatures and the necklace of human bones pollutes this place. His matted hair is dusted with impurities from the cremation ground where he likes to reside. Shiva! No, not Shiva -- Auspicious -- but Inauspicious! I weep to think that I was tricked into giving my daughter Sati to him in marriage. From henceforth, we will get no share in sacrifices performed by me."

Shiva did not rate high in Daksha's popularity list, but Daksha should be seen and understood as the symbol of the Vedic Brahmin ritualist who wanted to present the Aryan purity and its religion, in spite of the great merger which was taking place to bring about the fusion of Vedic and Tantric cultures into one all-embracing way of life. While Daksha denounced, Shiva remained silent.

Let us return to the Teleti of Girnar, the Lord of Mountains. Sadhus throng the ashrams and roads. Some have erected little hits of sticks and leaves by the roadsides. The climax takes place at midnight when the sadhus take their bath and assemble to offer praise to the Lord Shiva. It is the end of winter and still cool but they endure all in the ecstasy of naked submission to the Absolute as Shiva.

The great concord of saints is not without its spectacles. Some of the sadhus have taken vows never for a period of so many years to lie or sit on the ground, even to sleep. They stand with their arms resting on a flat piece of wood fixed on a pole, and this becomes their only support to rest or sleep. By the side of the road, a tall sadhu leans against a tree eating fruit. He is completely naked and his only possession, a trisula or three-pointed spear, as high as himself, rests against one shoulder.

Further along the road is another naked sadhu putting on a spectacular show. He stands with his legs apart, sufficient to permit huge stones or rocks which have been tied to his penis, to swing free. The weight of the rocks must be enormous and the sadhu has no competitors. Nothing to do with true spiritual life, but helpful in encouraging donations. Some of these types stand on the points of nails fixed in small blocks of wood. The performance starts with a challenge that he will stand on these uncomfortable supports and remain completely immobile until ten rupees have been donated. Usually he has an accomplice standing by and if things go on too long he gives a signal and his friend terminates the painful performance by promptly donating the remainder of the money. Mahashivaratri is the cake and the showmanship is the icing sugar which makes the festival more palatable.

Midnight on Mahashivaratri is no less bewitching than midnight festivals in other lands. As the sadhus go to take their bath and manoeuvre their way into the pool, from the vast concord of naked bodies we hear the great mantra of the Lord:

"Hara Hara Mahadeva Shiva-Shambhu Kashi Vishvanatha Ganga!" (Hara is the Great God, Shiva called Shambhu, Lord of the World, residing at Kashi on the Ganges!)

Banares, now called Varanasi - the original name corrupted to Banares - also has its great celebrations of this festival.

Within the boundary of Varanasi is an area called Kashi which for millennia has been regarded as the seat and city of Shiva-Kashinath. Today it is the one great city of the world where you will see the most religion and the least spirituality. But in spite of this defect, it draws like a magnet and has a peculiar and mystic fascination of its own. It is, perhaps, the most concentrated and visible aspect of modern Hinduism that can be seen today. It has more sacred bathing ghats than any other city and they stretch unending along the bank of the Ganges.

Kashi has the long-standing tradition that if you die there, irrespective of what evil might have been done, you will go directly to heaven. Hundreds, in old age, still go there for this purpose. Great numbers of old Brahmins go to Kashi and become initiated as Dandi Swamis - the Swamis who carry the staff. There they wear the ochre robe and pass their days in prayer and gossip, to await that great moment when they will be carried to the burning ground and wake up in heaven.

Only a Brahmin can be initiated as a Dandi Swami, and this is the only qualification. They are not sannyasins, but take to a stage in life called vanaprastha, something akin to a hermit, but one still observing prayer and ritual. In the past, it was India's answer to the old age pension. Most beg their food from the house of a Brahmin. Some institutions have also been set up to give meals and people donate money to the sect to purchase the wood for their ultimate disposal.

Women vanaprasthas are now very rare and generally cared for by families, but the life is actually open to women just as much as men, though they do not take initiation. The Dandi Swamis acknowledge Shiva as the Supreme Lord, but as individuals their concepts are very relative. The vanaprastha stage of life is not sectarian and can be assumed by any man or woman of any caste and they can continue the worship of deities of their own choice.

A lovely story is told which demonstrates the traditions of Kashi and the eternal Ganges. Parvati, the Consort of Shiva, was playing the role of a woman more than a Goddess and rebuking Shiva for his readiness to grant boons and blessings too easily. She added her final feminine thrust to say that if Shiva was in dire trouble, nobody would try to help him.

Shiva took up the challenge and said they would arrange a text. He would lie on the ground and pretend he was dead. The Goddess would then pose as a distraught window. She would then tell anyone who passed that the God of Kashi had granted her a special boon and if any stranger who was pure in heart touched the body, her husband would come to life again and she would be rescued from widowhood.

Many came by but most hurried on because Hindus had been taught that it was inauspicious to touch a dead body and in this way they would lose their chance to go to heaven. As the hours passed, the test brought no success. Suddenly a man came along looking the very picture of dejection and misery. He stopped to listen to Parvati's plea but sadly turned away and said: "Good lady, your devotion to your husband should be honoured, but I am unworthy to fulfil the task. I have wanted the world too much and it has only brought me misery. My life has been too evil for me to be able to serve you in this way."

Hanging his head, he turned to move on. Then, suddenly, he turned back. "Wait, good lady, there is a way." The man rushed down to the Ganges and plunged in the water. Hurrying back, he laid his wet hands on Shiva's head. Shiva stirred and sat up, but before he could speak, the man rushed down to the river and immersed himself a second time. Shiva laughed, but the Goddess put her questions.

"Why, good man, did you first refuse but touched my husband after bathing in the river?" The man laughed and replied: "Should it not be known by all that any person who bathes in the Ganges at Kashi washes off all taint of evil and becomes pure?" "But," asked the Goddess, "why the second bath, if you had been made pure?"

"Did I not touch your husband's corpse and is that not a new impurity?"

This time, Parvati laughed with Shiva and the man suddenly realised who they were and threw himself at their feet.

Shiva said: "For this day's work, in which your faith and sincerity excelled all other men, I will grant you a boon. Ask for whatever you wish."

"Be careful," said the Goddess.

The man looked at the face of Shiva. "What boon can I ask, when I am weary of the world, but the boon of your grace which will grant me strength and confidence to tread your path to liberation? Grant me this."

Shiva held up his hand, making the mudra of granting boons, and said: "So shall it be and when you have cast off the last body you will shine as an immortal among the stars."

Later, Parvati said to Shiva: "I never seem to be able to get the better of you." Shiva turned to her and whispered: "You should take a bath in the Ganges."

Mankind has gone a long way, up and down, down and up and now mostly down. Ancient values, tempered in the forge of time, are being rejected for new untried ideas. Happiness in worldly life is still the only real criterion by which mankind can measure its life. Progress is not always found with the latest innovations, concepts or ideas, and mankind may soon have to learn that ancient Pagan ways of life and values have still the most to offer. There is still some gem of real wonder in that old Pagan life where men learned not only how to live but also how to die. Those who can see Shiva and Shakti as undifferentiated union have no need to think of "Gay Liberation" or "Women's Liberation" or any concepts to establish sex equality. What Nature made, Nature will preserve.

India has taught us the balance of life and the true pulsating rhythm by which all things are accomplished. It is the most earnest and serious way of life the world has ever known, yet does not have real meaning until we can lampoon it and learn to laugh with it. This way of life, thronged with cheats and hypocrites, contained the greatest man who ever lived. The path which is over covered with the most rubbish and superstitions, carries on its crest the highest wisdom of the Absolute. When you enter the stream, think of the goal on the other shore and do not waste words or tears lamenting on the water which is going past.

A word of warning, human creatures! If you love your world and its frustrations, its empty promises, tears and anguish, its war, shattering noise and disasters, its passions, pathos, pillories and pilfering, its weary ways of unending toil and trouble, its devil dance which leads you to the grave, then Beware and turn your eyes away from the Lord of Yoga; flee from this Shiva and His Shakti, lest your delusions are destroyed and you are led to liberation.”

Mahasivaratri

Each month there is a day known as Sivaratri and once a year there is Mahasivaratri (maha=great); The Great Festival of Shiva. The dates of these occasions correspond to the phases of the moon and it is believed that the mind (which is adversely affected by the power of the moon) is less susceptible to low, animalistic forces and thus more tractable to the power of meditation and prayer. It is for this reason that Mahasivaratri is believed to be the one 24-hour period in the year which is of the greatest benefit. It has been stated in the scriptures that if a man fasts, stays awake and meditates for the whole of Mahasivaratri, it will give him his best chance to achieve mastery of the mind and attain liberation.




Mahashivaratri always falls on the fourteenth day of the dark fortnight of Phalguna (February-March), and is dedicated to the worship of Lord Shiva. (Mahashivaratri this year, 2009 falls on Monday 23rd February). On this day devotees sing Shiva bhajans, recite verses from scriptures, offer prayers in the morning and evening, and some observe fasting throughout the day. People visit Shiva Temples and in the case of Arunachala, premier Shiva site of South India, circumbulation of Arunachala Hill is observed by many.

The name Shiva signifies a quality that means 'Auspicious' or 'The Auspicious One'. To a few, Shiva is Paramatman, Brahman, the Absolute, but many more prefer to see Shiva as a personal God given to compassion for his worshippers, and the dispenser of both spiritual and material blessings.

For a more complete explanation of Mahasivaratri please visit an earlier narrative at this link here.

18 February 2009

Arunagirinatha Temple and Ayyankulam Tank

Arunagirinatha Temple is the third oldest Shiva Temple at Tiruvannamalai. Some say of it; Adi Annamalai Temple is the Head, Arunachaleswarar Temple is the body and Arunagirinatha Temple is the feet.





In front of this ancient, fascinating Temple is the Ayyankulam Tank which is famous for being favoured during Deepam as the Tank upon which the murtis of the Gods enjoy a leisurely rest on their float.





In more recent times the Ayyankulam Tank is famous for its association with Sri Ramana Maharshi as it is the place at which he became a sannyasin.


“Venkataraman detrained at Villuparam (near Pondicherry) for food and thereafter decided to walk. By sunset he arrived at Araiyaninallur Temple where he remained for meditation and later went to the nearby village of Kilur. The next day after pledging his earrings for four rupees he entrained for Tiruvannamalai arriving before noon on September 1, 1896. Immediately he went towards the Arunachaleswarar Temple and it was nearby at the Ayyankulam tank that Venkataraman tore his dress to make a kaupinam, threw everything else away including his remaining money and his Brahman sacred thread, and allowed a barber to give him a tonsure.” To read more click here.



Nowadays the Temple is surrounded by a cluster of new housing which sadly partly obstructs the view of Arunachala.







But perhaps one of the most curious tales associated with this ancient Temple is of the floor of this store room in the below photograph. It is believed that under this very floor is a tunnel (now sealed) which leads into the Arunachaleswarar Temple compound.





More information about this fascinating, ancient Temple to come.

SEZ Public Hearing – Tamil Nadu

Further to an earlier posting on Arunachala Grace, about Land for Industrialisation concerning a 2,300-acre land parcel being readied for acquisition by a government-owned entity -- i.e. State Industries Promotion Corp.,(Sipcot) -- here follows a Press Release of the findings of an independent professional panel investigating SEZs (Special Economic Zones) in Tamil Nadu.



Press Release

5th February 2009, Chennai, Tamil Nadu:


Shocked by findings of large-scale violation of due process, lack of transparency and widespread instances of forced acquisition of farmlands and homesteads, a panel of ex-IAS officers, professors and social activists after hearing the grievances of affected people from seven districts of Tamil Nadu have recommended that the state government should immediately stop land acquisitions for SEZs and annul all notified and approved SEZs in the state. The panel prepared its report after hearing villagers from Oragadam-Sriperumbudur (Kancheepuram), Cheyyar (Tiruvannamalai), Ranipet (Vellore), Panapakkam (Vellore), Nanguneri (Tirunelvelli), Ennore (Tiruvallur) and Hosur (Krishnagiri) at a public hearing held on 3rd December 2008 by the Sirapu Porulaathara Mandalam Ethirpu Iyyakam (Movement against SEZs). The movement is a joint action committee of people affected by SEZ projects in Tamil Nadu.

“It is shocking to see how the state government is taking away the assigned lands, particularly bhoodan land in Oragadam for setting up of these SEZs” said Mr Louis Menezes, a retired IAS official who served as secretary, Government of India. “These lands were assigned to the most marginalised, mostly landless dalits,” he added.

The public hearing exposed as a lie the Government’s claim of “no dissent” amongst people whose lands are being acquired, and that no fertile agricultural lands are being acquired for SEZs. Villagers testified to acquiring of fertile nunjai (irrigated) agricultural land in almost all the areas, of village commons like grazing land and even eris (water bodies) and burial/cremation grounds for SEZs and other industrial purposes by Government-owned SIPCOT and TIDCO. “This is contrary to the stated industrial policy 2007 of the Tamil Nadu government where the Government has said it will not acquire fertile agricultural land,” said Prof Shanmugam Velayutham, Professor, Social Work Department, Loyola College.

“Women spoke about the hardships faced due to usurpation of village commons. They have no access to firewood, water sources, no privacy for sanitation, said Dr Neellavali from Initiatives:Women In Development.

With 122 notified and proposed Special Economic Zones (SEZs), Tamil Nadu boasts of the maximum number of SEZs in the country after Andhra Pradesh and Maharashtra. Even before the central SEZ Act was passed in 2005, Tamil Nadu had formulated its own policy on SEZs in 2003.

“The state government claims of generation of jobs, but it does not mention anything about loss of livelihood. Has SEZs in the state provided jobs to the farmers and landless people who have lost their livelihood?” asked Dr Gabriele Dietrich, Professor, Centre for Social Analysis, Theological Seminary, Madurai. “Tamil Nadu has highest number of landless people in rural areas. Such mindless acquisition of land is pushing people to the brink of destitution,” Dr Dietrich added. Dietrich is also national convenor of National Alliance of People’s Movements.

The public hearing panel consisted of:

Prof. Shanmugam Velayutham, Professor, Social Work Department, Loyola College, Chennai.
Mr Louis Menezes, IAS (retd.), Former Secretary, Government of India.
Mr M.G. Devasahayam, IAS (retd.), Managing Trustee, Citizens’ Alliance for Sustainable Living (SUSTAIN), Chennai.
Dr Neelavalli, Activist, Director, Initiatives: Women In Development, Chennai.
Dr Gabriele Dietrich, Professor of Social Analysis, Centre for Social Analysis, Tamil Nadu Theological Seminary, Madurai and National Convener of National Alliance of People’s Movements.

16 February 2009

Mooji --Tiruvannamalai

Anthony Paul Moo-Young was born on 29 January 1954 in Port Antonio, Jamaica. In 1969, he moved to the UK and he presently lives in Brixton, London. Anthony Paul worked in London's 'West End' as a street portrait artist for many years, then as a painter and a stained glass artist, and later as a teacher at Brixton College. For a long time, he was well known as Tony Moo, but is now known as Mooji.

Since 1999, he has been sharing satsang in the form of spontaneous encounters, retreats, satsang intensives and one-to-one meetings with seekers both in London and also during his visits to countries around the world.






In 1994, Mooji made his first visit to Arunachala. He now yearly visits and stays here for several months at a time – during which he engages in Retreat and Satsang. His latest visit concluded a couple of days ago on February 15, 2009. To find out more about Mooji, you can visit his site at this link.

Rajarajeshwari Temple Homam

I previously mentioned the very nice hill round girivalam performed by bullock cart last Tuesday, February 10th by a group from France. This same group of 18 members escorted by Dominique Vincent and his companion Rahina, also sponsored a very beautiful Sri Chakra Homam at the Rajarajeshwari Temple on the evening before their departure. The Group is currently at Varanasi on the second stage of their Indian visit.


Even though the Group was not able to remain for the actual Homam at the Temple, they were able to participate in the Sankalpam and view the elaborate and beautiful preparations that had been made for this powerful Homam.






Below is the Temple's exquisite Sri Meru Chakra upon which abishekam will be performed after the Homam.














Some fresh, young sugar cane arrives for the Goddess.





And so it starts.


12 February 2009

The World


When Sri Ramana was asked, ‘When will the realisation of the Self be gained?’ he replied, ‘When the world which is what-is-seen has been removed, there will be realisation of the Self, which is the seer.’ What is the true understanding of the world? How to remove the world?




To watch the video of Swami Satchidananda's reply click on this link here.

God's Perfection

Temple Commercialisation



Below is an excerpt of a recent article regarding the Nataraja Temple at Chidambaram entitled ‘Threat to Tillai”. The article raises important points regarding the commercialisation of Temples which affects both residents and visitors of Temple Towns such as Tiruvannamalai.


“The verdict given by the Single Judge of the Madras High Court upholding the appointment of an Executive Officer by the HR & CE Department of the Tamilnadu government in order to take control of the administration of the Chidambaram (Thillai) Natarajar Temple seems to be a hasty one . . .
These moves are a real threat to the sanctity of the temple and will certainly prove sacrilegious, as evidenced by the atrocious commercialisation of hundreds of great temples like Srirangam Ranganathar, Madurai Meenakshi, Thiruvannamalai, Pazhani Murugan, Chennai Kapaleeshwarar, Thiruchendur Murugan and many others.”

To read about the ancestral structure and hierarchy at Chidambaram Temple go to this link here.

11 February 2009

Bullock Cart Hill Rounding


On Tuesday, February 10th, I performed a very nice hill round with a group of visitors from France and Belgium. All the group of eighteen members, except for the leaders Dominique Vincent and his companion Rahina, were visiting Tiruvannamalai for the first time. They leave this area on Friday, February 13th to continue their fascinating Indian tour. I hope to tell you more about their adventures and impressions in the upcoming Arunachala Grace Newsletter – which will be sent out to subscribers inboxes after Mahashivaratri.

Anyhow that Tuesday morning I arrived with two bullock carts (each with two bulls) early at Arunai Anantha Hotel. Already the days are getting warm, so we wanted to make an early start to avoid spending the afternoon in the sun. Everyone wrapped up nicely to venture out in the chilly early morning.




First off we stopped at Nirudhi Lingam (the SW Asta Lingam) so we could look at the descriptive lingam map painted on the outside of the Lingam Shrine. During the course of the morning we did in fact visit: Nirudhi Lingam, Varuna Lingam, Asta Lingam, Kubera Lingam and Yama Lingam.




Our next port of call was the favourite Kannapar Temple.

“There is a Temple built at the foot of Arunachala, off the pradakshina route, on a rock dedicated to Sri Kannappar. Kannappar who was one of the sixty-three Nayanars (Tamil Poet-Saints) whose lives are recorded in the Periya Puranam (Lives of the Saints). The actual story of Kannappa Nayanar is supposed to have taken place at a Hill Temple in Sri Kalahasti, near Tirupathi.

The story goes that there was a forest place called Uduppur. It was an isolated area populated by fierce villagers. Nagan and Tatthai had a great desire for a child but as they were old had to go to a shrine of Lord Murugan to receive his blessings before they were able to conceive. A son was soon born to them who they named Thinnan (meaning strong), because he was so powerful and heavy that even his father could hardly hold him up.” To read further go to this link here.



You can get an idea of the way the Temple is constructed with Arunachala as its rocky foundation.



Its interesting to view the progress of the developing Swami Nithyananda’s Ashram from the vantage point of Kannapar Temple.




The below photograph was taken from the Panchamuka shrine from where one can see the five faces of Arunachala. R. Henninger in his interesting book ‘Arunachala – Holy Hill,’ remarks that the faces are:

Top dedicated to Ishana – Pure Crystal

East dedicated to Tat Purusha – Yellow, the face

South dedicated to Agoram – Black, the heart

North dedicated to Vamadeva – Red, the navel

West dedicated to Sadyojatha – White, the foot



This part of the hillround roadway was quite peaceful and the bullocks were moving along quite perky and unstressed. We had already fed them with some bananas during a stopover, and they were co-operating quite earnestly.






We definitely had to stop at the Idukku Pillayar Shrine and test the legend that those who succeed in passing through the narrow passage while uttering a wish, will have that wish fulfilled. Well just about all of the group went through the opening – so they will be able to test the wish-fulfilment part first hand. Anyhow all the group had a good laugh.





Once we got near the Tiruvannamalai Bus Stand, traffic started to get heavy and the bullock drivers really needed to concentrate and put their power into guiding the bullocks. It was a hair raising experience for us – can’t imagine what it was like for the poor bullocks.






It was getting hot and late and the roads were busy with traffic. Deciding time was too short to make the hike up the Hill to visit Pavala Kundru, we instead visited the beautiful Durga Amman Koil and from there we could look up and also see part of the 'Jewel of the Hill,' (i.e. Pavala Kundru).

Both these Temples are associated with famous stories of Arunachala connected with the Goddess. And it is this area which is believed to be the place that Shiva and the Goddess joined and became the manifestation known as Ardhanisvara (half-man, half-woman).

Durga Amman Temple

Durga Amman Temple is believed to have originated from the episode of the Goddess killing the demon Mahishasura. In the Puranas, we read that after having killed the Demon, a lingam adhering to his neck when taken by the Goddess remained welded to the palm of her hand. Durga then went to the place that is now situated in the compound of the Durga Amman Temple. The area was dry, but she dug a hole with her sword and water gushed forth. When she took a bath, the lingam came off her hand and Durga started worshipping it.

The Goddess remained and bestowed her favours on her devotees. Since then, the sacred tank has had a regular water inflow. It is at this Temple that great celebrations take place in honour of Durga during the days of Navaratri and Dasara – which symbolise the victory of the Goddess over evil.



Durga Amman Temple foreground,
Pavala Kundru background at top left



Pavala Kundru

Pavala Kundru (The Jewel of the Hill) is a beautiful Temple located on the top of a giant rock In Puranic mythology Rishi Gautama received the Goddess Parvati at this spot when she came to Arunachala to do penance and it is here it is believed she constructed her own Ashram

To read vignettes and stories about Puranic mythology of Arunachala go to this link here and this link here.



Pavala Kundru through the trees

In more contemporary times Ramana Maharshi lived in one of the two small rooms located at the side of the Temple.





Well we made it back to the Arunai Anantha Hotel where the group are staying. Bullock hillround took nearly six hours and the four bulls did a sterling job. Now they can digest their bananas and take a cooling rest before they head on home and the end of their day's work. Thanks fellas.