Babavali Dargah

A favourite place of mine and one curiously undiscovered by most visitors is a large Moslem burial ground located in the middle of Bavajai Nagar contains the dargahs of two Moslem saints. Most Muslims in India belong to the Sunni school, and burial sites for revered religious figures are known as dargahs (or durgahs).

In response to my previous posting and the many enquiries as to the exact location of the burial ground, I am including photographs and directions in this narrative which will help interested visitors locate the compound.

Directions are thus. Leave the front gate of Ramana Ashram (using Ashram as a central point) and take a left. Proceed down Chengam Road towards town for about 200 yards until reaching a fork in the road – take the right side and proceed onwards passed the petrol bunks.




Petrol bunk, right and towards Ashrams.
We go left and towards town


There is never a quiet time on
Tiruvannamalai roads nowadays



Turning for Subramanian Theatre
coming up on left side


A hundred yards after the petrol bunk on the left side there is the Subramanian theatre, just after the theatre is an orange facility.



Orange painted facility


Across the road from the facility is a tiny lane. Go down the lane.



Tiny lane


30 yards on the right side is the Muttu Karimariamman Temple.



Small Muttu Karimariamman Kovil


Just after the Temple on the left side is a high white wall (it is in front of the big building in the left background of this photograph). In the middle of the wall is a large closed metal gateway. Next to the gateway, is a small opening with bars. The opening will be unlocked, push to enter.



To enter compound use doorway left side,
front of big building at left background

You are now inside the very large 4-5 acre burial ground. There will be a few local villagers inside the compound making bamboo leaf rice winnowing baskets. You don’t need to speak with them to ask permission to be inside the compound, they too are visitors and guests.

Surprising to be in such a large open place
in middle of busy Bavajai Nagar


The whole grounds empty
except for about 4-5 shrines


Quiet, peaceful compound





The second structure on the left side is the dargah of Mahan Aharajath Jaguhthum Sha Valiullha. He was born in Tirupattur as Sayed Abdullah Basha. His guru gave him a new name and sent him to Tiruvannamalai with the instructions to meditate at Babavali Dargah at the grave of his own Guru, Syed Munivar Sha, who died over 400 years previously.




Dargah of Mahan Sarat


Mahan Aharajath lived to about 75 years of age and died over 100 years ago. He instructed his followers that if he died away from Arunachala, that his body be brought back to this place. In this, the saint was prescient, as he was to die in Chennai, and from there his body was brought back to Tiruvannamalai and now rests in this Dargah.






The custodian Sardhar Bai at the Dargah relates that Ramana Maharshi was known to have spent time in meditation at the burial ground. Subsequently many of his devotees visited the burial ground, which later was to gain the reputation of being a place of mystical powers.



Dargah of Mahan Sarat


Thus far the only known narrative of this place is a short extract taken from the book In Days of Great Peace by Mouni Sadhu.


“One day, a friend invited me to attend worship in the mosque of Tiruvannamalai. I went and was told the strange story of a North Indian Mohammedan saint, generally called Haji here. A few days before his death he said to his pupils:

When I leave my physical form, my Spirit will remain with you. Let everyone, without any difference of creed and social status, come to my grave whenever he may be in need of help. Let him express his need or wish as clearly as he would, were he facing my present visible form. I shall certainly hear his entreat and shall transmit it to the Most High, who will fulfil it for the sake of His servant

Dargah of Sayed Munivar Sha


For me, the tomb of the Mohammedan saint proved to be one of these magnetic spots. in a few moments, after having excluded the visible words from my consciousness, I became aware of the Hajis presence. It was like that of a sweet and extremely kind person asking me what were my needs and wishes and urging me to express them frankly without any shyness or reservation .....

During the next weeks I returned several times to this silent shrine, having some entangled and difficult problems to solve. One of them seemed utterly hopeless, for its solution from the physical point of view was impossible. And yet, within three days after my last visit and request for the Hajis help, a happy and unexpected solution came of itself without intervention on my part.”

The Five Nandis

Right Click to view photo enlargements

During Mattu Pongal at Arunachaleswarar Temple, apart from other celebrations, five Nandis inside the Temple are lavishly decorated with garlands and foodstuff.






The five Nandis are; Pradosha Nandi, in the Moolastanam, Ratha Vilaku Nandi in the Second Prakaram, Kodi Kampathu Nandi in the Third Prakaram, Chinna Nandi in the fourth prakaram and the Periyar Nandi that stands in front of the Vallala Gopuram in the Fifth Prakaram.

Pongal Time of Sunny Celebrations

Pongal was originally a Festival for the farming community but nowadays it is celebrated by all. It follows the solar calendar and is celebrated on the same days each year. Pongal has astronomical significance: it marks the auspicious beginning of Uttarayana, the Sun's movement northward for a six month period and all important events are scheduled during this 6-month period. Four festivals are celebrated at Tiruvannamalai (and throughout Tamil Nadu) for four consecutive days during the Pongal Festival. 'Bhogi' on January 13th, 'Pongal' on January 14th, 'Maattuppongal' on January 15th, and 'Thiruvalluvar Day' on Jan 16.

On Bhogi old clothes and materials are thrown away and set on fire, marking the beginning of a new life. The second day, the Pongal day, is celebrated by boiling fresh milk early in the morning and allowing it to boil over the vessel - a tradition that is the literal translation for Pongal. People also prepare savouries and sweets, visit each other's homes, and exchange greetings. The third day, Mattu Pongal, is meant to offer thanks to the cows and buffaloes, as they are used to plough the lands. On the last day, Kanum Pongal, people go out to picnic.







In Hindu Temples; bells, drums, clarinets and conch shells herald the joyous occasion of Pongal. To symbolize a bountiful harvest, rice is cooked in new pots until it boils over. Some rituals performed in Temples include the preparation of rice, chanting of prayers and offering of; vegetables, sugar cane and spices to the Gods. Devotees then consume the offerings to exonerate themselves of past sins. Pongal signals the end of the traditional farming season, giving farmers a break from their monotonous routine. Farmers also perform puja to some crops, signaling the end of the traditional farming season.

I’ve made many postings about Pongal on Arunachala Grace, and to find out more about this wonderful Festival go to this link here and here.

Sufi Saint Syedini Bibi

The population demographics of Tiruvannamalai and its surrounds is over 30% non Hindu. Of this percentage a large number of Muslims have been living in the area for many generations. It is known (Tiruvannamalai was under Muslim rule several times in its history) that there are a number of powerful sacred burial sites dedicated to Muslim saints in Tiruvannamalai, one of the most famous being that of the woman saint, Syedini Bibi.




Darghar in the background
of busy Car Street


In 1880 the Darghar in Car Street was built by the Nawab of the time in honour of the great woman Sufi Saint. Although this burial site faces noisy Car Street, it is renowned for its powerful and peaceful vibrations. It is believed that both Sri Seshadri Swamigal and Sri Ramana Maharshi often sat in meditation at this place, and in more contemporary times the tomb was frequently favoured by Sri Yogi Ramsuratkumar.




Darghar of Saint Syedini Bibi


Syedini Bibi came from the middle east in the early nineteenth century. Like many Sufis before her she landed at Nagore on the south-east coast. From there she travelled inland a few hundred kilometers to Arunachala where she settled for the rest of her life.





Little is known about the life of this saint, however there are two powerful famous stories connected with her tomb.

One such story is that the Tiruvannamalai authorities decided to demolish the burial grounds (where Syedini Bibi was buried), in order to widen the road to accommodate the Maharadham (Big Car Chariot) during the Deepam Festival.


Alley leading to Car Street


In response to this proposal, many protested against disturbing the Saint’s grave, and the authorities postponed the demolition. The myth that was handed down claims that during the Deepam Festival, as the gigantic wooden Chariot passed, one of its huge wheels accidentally knocked the side of Bibi’s tomb and the temple cart immediately burst into flames.



Darghar of Woman Saint Sydedini Bibi


Another story connected with this tomb is that the British (who were then rulers in India) planned to widen Car Street, in order to construct a roadway from Bangalore to Pondicherry via Tiruvannamalai. Construction of the road commenced and many tombs and graves were destroyed but when the builders reached the site of the Sufi Saint, blood poured from the grave, and onlookers reported hearing a loud voice commanding that the tomb be not disturbed.

When British Government officials came later to investigate what had occurred, legend has it that again a loud voice was heard commanding that the tomb not be disturbed. As a consequence the development of the highway was cancelled. This extraordinary circumstance attracted many British people to the tomb, which also resulted in visits of many Muslims and inspired a local Muslim family to act as guardians at the tomb. Currently the person in charge of maintaining the tomb is the sixth generation of the original family of custodians.

Arudra Darshan

Arudra Darshan, also known as Thiruvathira festival, is another occasion celebrated in a grand manner on Arudra star day at Arunachaleswarar Temple during the Tamil month of Margazhi. The month of Margazhi is also known as the ‘Twilight’ in Heaven (the time that the sun is in Sagittarius), and is considered the most appropriate time in which the Gods can rest and rejuvenate. This year Arudra Darshan fell on January 8th.






It is during this auspicious period that Lord Shiva’s birthday is celebrated. The day has been given this importance as Arudra Darshan is believed to be the period in which Lord Shiva’s energy is closest to earth.








Lord Shiva is worshipped in the cosmic dance form as Lord Nataraja, and the full moon night of Margazhi is also the longest night of the year. After this date, days get longer and nights get shorter. Lord Nataraja is the presiding deity of the famed Saivaite Temple at Chidambaram, one of the famed five Pancha Bootha Sthalams, and which represents akasha (ether).








The cosmic dance of Lord Shiva represents five activities – Creation, Protection, Destruction, Embodiment and Release. In essence, it represents the continuous cycle of creation and destruction. And it elaborately acted out and represented in most major Saivite Temples.






Dancing with Shiva

The world is seen as it truly is – sacred -- when we behold Siva's cosmic dance. Everything in the universe, all that we see, hear and imagine, is movement. Galaxies soar in movement; atoms swirl in movement. All movement is Siva's dance. When we fight this movement and think it should be other than it is, we are reluctantly dancing with Siva. We are stubbornly resisting, holding ourselves apart, criticizing the natural processes and movements around us.

It is by understanding the eternal truths that we bring all areas of our mind into the knowledge of how to accept what is and not wish it to be otherwise. Once this happens, we begin to consciously dance with Siva, to move with the sacred flow that surrounds us, to accept praise and blame, joy and sorrow, prosperity and adversity in equanimity, the fruit of understanding. We are then gracefully, in unrestrained surrender, dancing with Siva. The Vedas state, "The cosmic soul is truly the whole universe, the immortal source of all creation, all action, all meditation. Whoever discovers Him, hidden deep within, cuts through the bonds of ignorance even during his life on earth."

[By Satguru Sivaya Subrmauniyaswami]

Anthony De Mello Stories

Anthony de Mello, a Jesuit priest from India, influenced many in the world through his powerful understanding of the human condition. And he pointed the way to authentic living with the use of parables and teaching stories.






Until his sudden death on June 2, 1987, Father Anthony de Mello was the director of the Sadhana Institute of Pastoral Counseling near Poona, India. He aimed simply to teach people how to pray, and how to wake up and live. He maintained that most people are asleep and that they need to wake up -- to open their eyes and see what is real.

Below are a couple of wonderful Anthony de Mello short stories. To those who have not yet discovered this sublime, inspirational speaker, please visit his website at this link here.



The Flea and the Elephant

A flea decided to move with his family into the ear of an elephant. So he shouted, "Mr. Elephant, Sir, my family and I plan to move into your ear. I think it only fair to give you a week to think the matter over and let me know if you have any objection?"

The Elephant, who was not even aware of the existence of the flea went his placid way so, after conscientiously waiting a week, the flea assumed the Elephant's consent and moved in. A month later Mrs. Flea decided the Elephant's ear was not a healthy place to live in and urged her husband to tell the Elephant that they were moving; in such way so as not to hurt the Elephant's feelings.

So, Mr. Flea put it to tactfully to the Elephant, "Sir, we plan to move to other quarters. This has nothing at all to do with you of course, because your ear is spacious and warm. It is just that my wife would rather live next door to her friends at the buffalo's foot. If you have any objection to our moving, do let me know in the course of the next week." The Elephant said nothing, so the flea changed residence with a clear conscience.

Moral of the Story: Relax -- the Universe is not aware of your existence!



The Saint

There once lived a man so godly that even the angels rejoiced at the sight of him. But in spite of his great holiness, he had no notion that he was holy. He just went about his humdrum tasks diffusing goodness like the way of flowers -- unselfconsciously, diffusing their fragrance like street lamps diffuse their glow.

The saint's holiness lay in this - that he forgot each person's past and looked at them as they were now, and he looked beyond each person's appearance to the very centre of their being where they were innocent and blameless and too ignorant to know what they were doing. Thus he loved and forgave everyone that he met - and he saw nothing extraordinary in this for it was the result of his way at looking at people.

One day an angel said to him, "I have been sent to you by God. Ask for anything you wish and it will be given to you. Would you wish to have the gift of healing?" "No," said the man, "I'd rather God did the healing himself."

"Would you want to bring sinners back to the path of righteousness?" "No," he said, "It is not for me to touch human hearts. That is the work of angels."

"Would you like to be such a model of virtue that people will be drawn to imitate you?" "No," said the saint, "For that would make me the centre of attention."

"What then do you wish for?" asked the angel. "The Grace of God," was the man’s reply. "Having that, I have all I desire." "No," you must ask for some miracle," said the angel, "Or one will be forced on you." "Well then I shall ask for this, let good be done through me without my being aware of it."

So it was decreed that the holy man's shadow would be endowed with healing properties whenever it fell behind him. So, everywhere his shadow fell - provided he had his back to it - the sick were healed, the land became fertile, fountains sprang to life and colour returned to the faces of those who were weighed down by life's sorrow. But the saint knew nothing of this because the attention of people was so centred on the shadow that they forgot about the man and so his wish that good be done through him and he be forgotten, was abundantly fulfilled.


***************


To see more of Anthony de Mello, watch the below video about how to love.

The Gates of Heaven

Vaikunta Ekadasi (Ekadasi is synonymous with fasting and abstinence) is an auspicious day dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It occurs in the month of Margashirsha (between December and January). In Tamil Nadu the festival is known as Mukkoti Ekadasi or Sorgavasal Thirappu.

On this day, fasting is an important aspect associated with this Festival. The austerity is associated with much deeper aspects associated with the following legend:

During the Krita Yuga, also termed the golden age, an asura called Muran harassed both devas and mortals. Unable to bear his tyranny, the devas sought refuge in Shiva. He directed them to approach Vishnu. Vishnu agreed to help the devas and went out to battle with Muran. During the long battle, which lasted one thousand celestial years, Vishnu needed to rest for a while. He entered a beautiful cave called Himavati in Badarikashrama to sleep.

Muran wanted to strike Vishnu while he was sleeping. However, Shakti (Vishnu's female energy) emerged out of his body and assumed the form of a beautiful damsel who fought Muran and vanquished him. When Vishnu awoke he was very pleased and named this maiden as Ekadasi and granted her a boon. The maiden said, "O Lord, if You are pleased with me and wish to give me a boon, then give me the power to deliver people from the greatest sins if they fast this day". Vishnu granted her the boon and declared that people worshipping her would reach Vaikunta. Thus, it is said, was born the first Ekadasi and devout people have since observed the Ekadasi fast.



Swarga Vaasal


Here, the demon Muran represents the tamasic and rajasic qualities in us. The import of the Ekadasi vrata is that one can conquer rajasic and tamasic tendencies through fasting (fasting means abstaining from anything that feeds the senses). This helps us reach our ultimate destination, Vaikuntha, which is the place or stage of no 'kuntitha' or dullness, stupidity and misery.



Venugopal with Devis believed taken
from Samudram Village


On this day, the Vaikunta Dwaram or the Swarga Vaasal, ‘The Gates of Heaven’ are believed to be kept open. The area encircling the sanctum is referred to Swarga Vaasal and devotees throng to gain entry into the Temple, to seek the Lord. The day of Ekadasi is to be spent in prayers and japam and, visits to the temple.

As the Lord Vishnu is celebrated as the founder of the Arunachaleswarar Temple, and Lord Brahma as the founder of the Adi Annamalai Temple, it is not surprising that this Vishnu festival is celebrated in such a grand style.



Lord Vishnu



There is also a fascinating story connected to the idols of Venugopala (with Rukumini and Satyabhama) whose shrine is immediately behind the Siva Sannidhi.

It is believed that the statues were originally in a small Vaisnava temple near Samudram Erie (lake) some 2 miles southwest of Arunachaleswarar Kovil. During certain festival, the villagers used to carry statues of their God to the large Vishnu temple at Tirukoilur (20 kms).





However, whenever Saiva idols from Arunachaleswarar temple passed, Vishnu devotees from the Samudram village would make a disturbance. As a response of continuous complaints, the King ordered the people of the Vasinava village to go in procession to Tirukoilur. When they were gone, he had the images of Venugopal (Krishna with flute) and his Devis removed from the Samudram Temple and installed instead in a shrine immediately at the back of the Siva Sannidhi at Arunachaleswarar Temple.

Arunachala Samudra Website

Below is the Home Page of the newly designed Arunachala Samudra website. The website is already nearly 60 pages in size, and is expected to grow in content appreciably over the next year.

For a photograph-rich report of the 2011 Arunachala Karthigai Deepam, please go to this link here.

2011 Mahadeepam Photographs

Below are a number of photographs from the 2011 Mahadeepam taken on Arunachala in the afternoon and evening of December 8th, previous to the lighting of the Deepam in the evening, and of the event itself.

The first photograph is taken of devotees clambering up the hill in order to secure a good vantage point for the Deepam lighting. From the town, the lines of devotees climbing up the side of the Hill (usually via the roadway past Virupaksha Cave) look like thousands of tiny little ants.






The next photograph is of Arunachaleswarar Temple and the town of Tiruvannamalai taken from the top of Arunachala.





The next sequence of photographs are of the preparation of the Deepam Cauldron with its ghee-coated cloth wick.











All preparations have been completed and all that remains is to wait for the fall of dusk and the time for the lighting of the Deepam on top of Arunachala.





And finally the time has come for the lighting of the 2011 Mahadeepam on top of Arunachala.










And those on the Hill can look town at the great Arunachaleswarar Temple and its beautiful, brilliant lights celebrating the 2011 Deepam Festival.






The Arunachala Deepam Cauldron remains lit for a specified period of time of between 7 to 13 days. This year, 2011, it was announced in the newspapers that it would be alight for 11 nights.







And so it happened. And on the 12th day, the cauldron was brought back down the Hill for cleaning and storage at the Arunachaleswarar Temple, until the 2012 Karthigai Deepam, where it will be lit on the top of Arunachala on November 27, 2012.

Rukku's Holiday

Right click on photographs for enlargement


Well the below two photographs are enough to warm the coldest heart. Dear Rukku, the Arunachaleswarar Temple Elephant, is boarding a truck on her way to Theppakadu and a well deserved 48 day vacation.







There will be 36 other elephants at the forest, 35 females and one male, to fun and frolic with, and this is not the first time Rukku has had a vacation from Temple duties, so she will already be familiar with many of the elephants that she will reunite with at Theppakadu, the place which also happens to be where she was born.






It does look like the truck could have been bigger, its going to be somewhat cramped for her on her journey, but no doubt her excitement will buoy her right along.


HAPPY HOLIDAY SWEET RUKKU

Temple elephants embark on a vacation

37 temple elephants have been transported to Theppakadu at Mudumalai Reserve Forest for a 48 day vacation. Our own Rukku from Arunachaleswarar Temple, Tiruvannamalai, is part of the vacationing group. In fact for Rukku this is returning home, because Theppakadu is the place where she was born, and where her mother still lives.

The trip took a couple of days and necessitated the elephants travelling in trucks. Some of them were not willing to step into the trucks, and mahouts had a difficult time pacifying the elephants and getting them on board.

A team of 5 doctors from the forest department and animal husbandry department has been deployed to provide round the clock medical aid. And in addition a team of five elephant experts from Kerala, will inspect the camp periodically.




Sweet Rukku, at Arunachaleswarar Temple



The vacationing elephants will be given a rejuvenation diet, basically green fodder including sugar cane, sorghum and cariota leaves. The mahouts and temple authorities will be trained on elephant management to make sure the temple elephants live a stress-free life post-rejuvenation camp, wildlife officials said.

It makes me happy that there is a least this small beginning in trying to improve what is currently an abysmal quality of life for Temple Elephants.

Have a lovely holiday sweet Rukku.

Light on Arunachala

I posted videos earlier of Bharani Deepam on the morning of December 8th and Mahadeepam, as celebrated at the Arunachaleswarar Temple on the evening of that day. I have finally been able to track down photographs of the lighting of the 2011 Deepam on top of Arunachala and also photographs of the simultaneous celebrations inside the Temple.


Right click on all photographs to view enlargements


As the day wanes into dusk and night begins to darken the sky, pilgrims stand or sit, motionless with anticipation, at the base of Arunachala mountain, preparing to worship God Siva as an infinite pillar of light.






By 5:00 in the evening, the area surrounding the Temple flagpole, as well as the adjoining terrace, is packed. People are grabbing seats to observe the dramatic arrival of five exquisitely decorated palanquins, carrying the Hindu Gods Vinayaka, Subramanya, Siva, Amba and Chandikeshwara. The devotees are constantly moving and adjusting their positions to get a better view and to make way for still more people pouring in.

Suddenly, the crowd's attention shifts to the Temple entrance from behind the flag pole. Some devotees jump up to get a better view. The first palanquin arrives with a dramatic flair. It's the Vinayaka Deity, a form of Lord Ganesha. Exquisitely bedecked with a variety of flowers artistically arranged, this relatively small Deity seems magically large in its luxurious setting. More than eight people are carrying the heavy wooden palanquin. They dance with graceful dignity to the accompaniment of temple music, devotional singing and Sanskrit prayers. Soon enough, they reach their designated position in front of the flag pole and come to a stop.

In a few minutes, the next palanquin arrives “Subramanya”. It's a little bigger. Unmindful of its weight, those who are carrying this celestial cargo somehow manage to dance with abandon, rocking the Deity joyously.

Now another palanquin is arriving, rocking to and fro. "Swami, Swami," the crowd shouts. Here, "Swami" is referring to Siva. Amba (Goddess Parvati) is right behind, followed by Chandikeshwara. Within about 30 minutes, five palanquins have arrived in all their spiritual pageantry.



Lord Annamalaiyar and Goddess Unnamulai


Finally, the appointed moment arrives. Against the backdrop of a sunset sky, crowned with the rising star of Kartika, thundering firecrackers, ringing Temple bells and a frenzy of rhythmic chanting merge to create a cacophony of chaotic splendor. Camphor is lit in a cauldron by the Temple flag pole, signaling priests on top of the mountain to light their flame.








The timing is perfectly synchronized





The air is charged as the overpowering sight of light, signifying Siva in the form of Jyoti (divine light), merges with Parvati to become Siva/Sakti. Now, finally, Ardhanarishvara is brought out of the Temple with great ceremonial fanfare. This is the only day of the year that this particular Deity is ever moved. It is most auspicious.






When that flame is seen by the thousands of devotees below, the entire countryside explodes with flashing luminescence. Bonfires, lamps, neon lights and fireworks light the night like day as a surging, thronging, emotionally charged mass of devotees chant, "Arunachala Siva," "Annamalai” and "Annamalai Harohara”. The sight of the Krittika Deepam is magical. It brings an inexplicable joy. People are ecstatic, mesmerized by the light.

[Narrative Fire on the Mountain]


It was announced that the Deepam on top of Arunachala would remain alight through 11 nights.