A Previous Deepam

To give you an idea of the wonder of Deepam, here is a video of Deepam from a previous year. This evening, after Deepam is lit, I will post photographs of the occasion as I experience it at the Ashram of my Guru, Sri Nannagaru.

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Deepam Day

I am posting this beautiful narrative, (authorship unknown) which describes in stirring, graphic language the events of this day, Deepam:

Deepam Day

"At about 4:30 a.m. this day November 24th, Bharani Deepam, the small main sanctum of the massive Arunachaleswarar Temple, is packed with souls who have been waiting in line all night.

The chief priest has just finished a simple ritual called Bharani Deepam and now ceremoniously waves a huge camphor flame in the direction of nearby Arunachala mountain. Although he is chanting Sanskrit slokas, he cannot be heard amidst the deafening furor of devotion that surrounds him. Finally, he touches the flame he is holding to the wicks of five huge, earthen, ghee-filled pots, representing the sacred elements earth, air, fire, water and ether. As these five flames loom up with red-yellow light, the famous, one-day, South Indian festival of Krittika Deepam officially begins.

All across Tamil Nadu, bonfires are lit on hills and in temples on Krittika Deepam. But nowhere is this festival celebrated like it is at Tiruvannamalai. Here it is unique. It is on this auspicious day that, at dusk (approximately 6:00 p.m. this evening), a sacred fire will be lit on top of the 2,668 foot Arunachala mountain to symbolize the merging of all manifest existence back into the one source of all things.

Preparations for this day begin one month in advance with the local administration, revenue department, police and temple authorities. Since early morning, temple staff and volunteers have been carrying five-gallon containers of ghee and large pots of thick, braided cloth wicks to the top of Arunachala mountain. Once the mountaintop flame has been lit, it must be kept burning for ten days, which requires vast quantities of wick and clarified butter.

As the day wanes into dusk and night begins to darken the sky, pilgrims stand or sit, motionless with anticipation, at the base of Arunachala mountain, preparing to worship God Siva as an infinite pillar of light.

At 6 pm, a roaring fire is ignited in the Temple at the base of Arunachala. This signals the lighting of a similar blaze on the summit. When that flame is seen by the thousands of devotees below, the entire countryside explodes with flashing luminescence. Bonfires, lamps, neon lights and fireworks light the night like day as a surging, thronging, emotionally charged mass of devotees chant, "Arunachala Siva," "Annamalai” and "Annamalai Harohara”.


The Chosen Fishermen
A flame taken from the five earthen pots that were lit just after the early morning temple ceremony of Bharani Deepam is kept burning in the Temple throughout the day as a symbol of the merging of manifestation back into God, the one source of all. This single flame is referred to as the Bharani Deepam. At 10:00 a.m., a group of fishermen are blessed by the temple priest with a small ceremony. At this time, amidst ringing bells and temple music, the priest gives the fishermen a lamp that has been lit from the Bharani Deepam in the Temple. This lamp, also called Bharani Deepam, will be taken by the fishermen to the top of the mountain.

Local fishermen are traditionally given the privilege of carrying the Bharani Deepam up the mountain and lighting the Krittika Deepam in the evening, because, according to a popular myth, Parvati (the wife of Lord Siva) was born in a fishing village. After their consecration ritual, the fishermen take off up the mountain. Their hike up the steep, rugged slopes will take about four hours.

In the Temple, all is quiet after the fishermen leave. By 5:00 in the evening, the area surrounding the Temple flagpole, as well as the adjoining terrace, will be packed. Pilgrims observe the dramatic arrival of five exquisitely decorated palanquins, carrying the Gods Vinayaka, Subramanya, Siva, Amba and Chandikeshwara.

Within about 30 minutes, five palanquins have arrived in all their spiritual pageantry. Now, we wait for the climax, the coming of Ardhanarishvara (Lord Siva as half man, half woman). This will occur immediately after the Krittika Deepam is lit. Everyone wants to be able to see the mountaintop. All eyes are looking up.

Finally, the appointed moment arrives. Against the backdrop of a sunset sky, crowned with the rising star of Kartika, thundering firecrackers, ringing Temple bells and a frenzy of rhythmic chanting merge to create a cacophony of chaotic splendour. Camphor is lit in a cauldron by the Temple flag pole, signaling priests on top of the mountain to light their flame. The timing is perfectly synchronized. The air is charged as the overpowering sight of light, signifying Siva in the form of Jyoti (divine light), merges with Parvati to become Siva/Sakti. Now, finally, Ardhanarishvara is brought out of the Temple with great ceremonial fanfare. This is the only day of the year that this particular Deity is ever moved. It is most auspicious.

The sight of the Krittika Deepam is magical. It brings an inexplicable joy. People are ecstatic, mesmerized by the light. After nightfall, we see groups of people lighting lamps in the streets. Every house, every shop, every temple, not only in Tiruvannamalai but in all surrounding villages and towns, is bedecked with beautifully flickering lamps.

Throughout the day, street merchants have been performing annadana (free distribution of food). For this one day, the entire town has merged as one family of unforgettable warmth, amity and cordiality. Even amidst the discomfort of the crowded streets, life runs smoothly and everyone gets along harmoniously.


Cauldron/Fishermen
During the 10 days that the flame burns on Arunachala after Krittika Deepam, it consumes a ton of ghee and 1,000 feet of thick, cotton wick. The fishermen who have been chosen to light the Deepam hike up the mountain every day to restock the cauldron and keep the flame alive. They consider their task a sacred privilege.

A month after the celebration has ended they perform fire-walking to absolve themselves of any sins they have accrued by setting foot on the mountain while carrying the Deepam. They also arrange for special pujas (worship ceremonies), abhishekam (water ceremonies) and homas (fire ceremonies) to be performed in their names.

The fishermen who have been chosen to light the Krittika Deepam are all gathered together inside a side shrine adjacent to the main Temple. They have just been blessed by the Temple priest who now lights the ghee lamp they will carry up Arunachala mountain. To the thundering of drums, they all suddenly rise together to stride quickly out into the main temple courtyard where hundreds of pilgrims are waiting for them. They make their way out of the Temple into the street heading for the trail that leads up the mountain.

The main devotee fisherman, who is carrying the ghee lamp, is moving very quickly. At first, a few of his colleagues stumble behind him with a cluster of pilgrims clumsily striving to keep up. As the progression proceeds, more pilgrims join the march. Soon, there are hundreds. Then there are thousands.

Pilgrims scramble, most shoeless, along the snake-like trail, snatching blessings at various shrines along the way. Storm clouds are gathering rapidly around the mountain's summit. Now we are meeting devotees coming down. There is only one trail and we tangle in a human traffic jam. Miraculously, the fishermen thread their way through this obstacle as if it is not there.

Temple

As the temple fire is lit at 6 pm, the moment is overwhelming. Thousands of pilgrims are chanting "Aum Namasivaya." Suddenly a fire is jumping skyward from the top of Arunachala, "Siva and Parvati are one." "

Tiruvannamalai Cattle Fair

I have a busy day planned ahead of me. First off darshan at 6 a.m. of my Guru, Sri Nannagaru at his ashram in Rajiv Gandhi Nagar (about 2 kms from Ramana Ashram). At 7.30 a.m. I am invited to a puja at the Animal Shelter, connected with the formation of their new Trust. (I will be posting a narrative further on this in the upcoming Arunachala Grace Newsletter due out at the end of the month. For your free subscription please check out at the left hand column of this Blog).

After the puja, I plan on going to Arunachaleswarar Temple to see what is happening there. In the afternoon Sri Nannagaru is meant to be giving darshan again at 4.00 p.m. and then at 6.00 p.m. I have arranged to meet friends from Kerala who are visiting Arunachala for Deepam. After meeting up, we then plan to go to Sri Sathya Sai bhajans at a devotee's house, to celebrate Swamis birthday.

Well had a very nice darshan and now on my way to the Animal Shelter.

As always over the Deepam Festival there is a 4-day Cattle Fair at Tiruvannamalai, at which cattle, horses and donkeys and a vast array of related accroutements are on sale.

Below a vertiable oasis of fresh drinking water available for the upcoming inundation of a million pilgrims eager to perform giripradakshina of Arunachala.

On the side of the road, some fellows sitting on a hillock of corn cobs.

Below, a rather interesting form of transportation, which seems to me to be a homemade job - but rather a smart vehicle nonetheless.

Nearly at the Animal Hospital, and my timing is perfect, as puja is ready to start. Hope to post some very nice photos of the puja in a couple of days. After the puja and some sweets and tea (yummy!)onward to the Cattle Fair.

Here are some of the young bulls which will be sold and used to pull carts loaded up with agricultural items, construction brick-a-brac, and a host of other kinds of loads.

The Cattle Fair is beginning to get busy, but its still very early in the morning. As well as cows and bulls, there will also be some nice ponies and horses on sale. The green in the back of the photograph is Arunachala.

All kinds of ropes and ornaments for the creatures are on sale at the Cattle Fair.

In the next photograph a very cheerful man making ornaments for the cows.

The pink building on the side of the below photograph, is the newly constructed pilgrim choultry, at which visiting pilgrims are able to stay during short trips to Arunachala.

I debated going onto the Cattle Fair grounds and have a look at the animals and carts, but decided against it, as need to head towards town and the Big Temple.

So I'm back on Chengam Road and have a nice leisurely 3 km walk ahead of me that will take me to Arunachaleswarar Temple at the centre of Tiruvannamalai.

Ready to Pull

Its beginning to get interesting. Crowds are building up, and there is excitement in the air.

Ladies will be pulling the chains at the left and gents on the right. Already folk are deciding what part of the chain they have decided to reserve. These ladies definitely are marking out their spots.

There is a certain milling around, and people making decisions as to the best place to go.


Dotted around the 5 Chariots currently parked on Car Street, are vendors selling various puja paraphernalia.

Pilgrims are performing puja at their Chariot pulling station.



Its nearly time.

God Darshan

Before the Big Chariot is hauled on its circuit around the outside perimeter of the 26 acre Arunachaleswarar Temple, pilgrims are allowed up into the Chariot to take darshan of the God, Arunachaleswarar and his Goddess, Unnamulaiyaal. Lucky I have arrived early and the streets are comparatively empty. This is just the beginning of how crowded it will get.

To the left is a building through which pilgrims go in order to climb onto the Chariot.

In the next photograph going through the tunnel onto the bridge from the building onto the Chariot.


A nice welcoming face as I wait to climb onto the chariot.

Looking down onto Car Street while in the waiting area before climbing onto the Chariot. The chariot behind is that of Lord Murugan - also preparing to be taken around the Temple perimeter.

In the next photograph you can see folk crossing the bridge onto the Chariot.

And to get an idea of the gigantic size of the wooden chariot, in the next photograph you can see the backs of pilgrims who are taking darshan of the Gods, Arunachaleswarar and Unnamulaiyaal.

And now its my turn to take the darshan, and happily I am given permission to take a photograph of the Gods.

And in close-up.

Karumbu Baby Thotty

During Deepam Festival on the day of Maha Radham, people offer up their child to Lord Annamalaiyar by taking it on girivalam around Arunachaleswarar Temple. In the below photographs people are buying sugar canes to tie together to support a hammock for their child.

In the below the tied cloth in the middle of the sugarcane holds a young child or baby. It used to be that people would offer up their first born to the God in this way, but it seems as if this custom has grown to include offering up all their children for the God's Blessing.

This day Wednesday, 21st November) there were hundreds of families carrying their Karumbu Baby Thotties in girivalam around Arunachaleswarar. Below a photograph of the pavement covered in leaves from the sugarcanes.

People in Town

By now its around 10 a.m. on Maha Radham day and the Vinayaka Chariot is still going around the perimeter roads surrounding the 26 acre Arunachaleswarar Temple. As the Chariot is being pulled along by devotees tugging on chains, it should take quite a few hours. The crowds gradually begin to build up as the morning progresses. So I go wandering the streets checking out whats happening.

Here is a man selling Chakra Valli Kilanku, which is a root vegetable reputed to be very effective in cooling body heat and also relieving and helping with all kinds of gastric and digestive problems. It tastes rather like sweet cucumber, and interestingly it tastes very cool - like it has just come out of the fridge.

Below a stall selling all kinds of sweets, candies, laddus and eatables.

Young lads roaming around selling toys, horns and flutes.

Everywhere you go, there are flowers. Most of which have come from local farmers who have brought in their blooms early in the morning.

Some balloons with lots of free advertising for Companies we all recognise.

A mountain of delicious, fresh, puri, a nice tasty roasted rice. The Indian version of snacking on popcorn - but in this case we have a rice eatable and a nice big mountain of it to get through!

Feeling a little hungry so stopped by Hotel Deepam on Car Street for a couple of Dosai Roasts. In front of the restaurant is a small store selling cigarettes, newspapers, sweets etc., which a young lad was tending on behalf of his Dad. Many of the children have up to 10 days holidays because of the Deepam Festivals.

Vinayaka Chariot

These photographs are from Wednesday the 21st November; the day of Maha Radham, the biggest and grandest procession of Deepam Festival. I was very eager to attend so decided to turn up early. Walking towards Arunachaleswarar Temple around 9 a.m. I met up with the oncoming Vinayaka chariot which was preceded by Rukku the Temple Elephant. On this day a total of five chariots will go around the perimeter roads of the Temple; Vinayaka, Lord Murugan, Parashakti, Chandikeswarar and finally on the giant chariot, Arunachaleswarar (Shiva) with Unnamulaiyaal (Parvati).

Rukku is very nicely dressed for the day wearing her cover of the Goddess Meenakshi.

In the below photograph the ladies are tugging on a huge linked chain that is pulling along the chariot.

Whenever the chariot gets stuck the men insert large wooden clogs under the wheels.

Which they jump upon to move along the chariot. Once the chariot is moving again, the clog lever is removed until the next jam-up.

Karthigai Lamps

Lamps are of varied sizes, shapes and colours. Traditionally, lamps are lit in temples and agal vilakkus adorn the thinnais of houses. Bigger lamps made of mud; stone and metal are lit inside homes. The ancient Tamils are said to have even imported lamps from as far as Greece and Rome, through the ports of Arikamedu (near Puducherry), Mallai or Mamallapuram and Mylai or Mylapore (part of present-day Chennai). One such imported lamp was of the hanging variety, designed in the shape of a swan with a fish placed at the top.

Another variety of lamp, common in Tamil Nadu from early times was the Lakshmi Vilakku or Pavai Vilakku. It was shaped like a woman (bearing in her folded palms), the shallow bowl containing oil for lighting the lamp.

At Arikamedu, archaeologists have unearthed a flat circular clay lamp with four nozzles or petals or openings for four wicks. Another clay lamp discovered at this site has 12 nozzles.

The ubiquitous five-nozzle kuthu vilakku has been in use from the days of the Cholas or perhaps even earlier. When the British East India Company began to rule parts of South India, it featured the petals or nozzles of the kuthu vilakku on some of the coins that were minted. The five petals or nozzles are also said to denote the five main elements are supposed to represent the five elements of Nature — earth, water, fire, air and sky or space. The five nozzles are also said to denote the five main elements needed for a successful life — health, wealth, learning, courage and longevity.

Silver Kuthuvilakkus

The three Gods Bramha, Vishnu and Shiva are believed to be present in the Vilakku. At the base part is Bramha,the middle part Vishnu and the broad part on top is Shiva

The Glow of the vilakku is represented as Goddess Lakshmi,the Light by Goddess Saraswati and the Heat by Goddess Parvati.

Vilakkupic

The five wicks in the kuthuvilakku represents our five senses and also the Panchaboothangal: 5 elements of the World; Earth, Water, Air, Sky and FireTraditionally, after Karthigai, most of these lamps, except for those in daily use, were cleaned and stacked away, and taken out only the next year for the festival. In the old, tiled-roof houses, agal vilakkus were invariably stacked in the loft beneath the roof.

Karthigai in Tamil Literature

Karthigai is essentially a festival of lamps. The lighted lamp is considered an auspicious symbol. It is believed to ward off evil forces and usher in prosperity and joy. While the lighted lamp is important for all Hindu rituals and festivals, it is indispensable for Karthigai.

In ancient Tamil literature, the oldest available work Tolkappiyam gives in concise verse form rules for Tamil grammar as well as other topics. Scholars agree that this work dates back to 2000 or 2500 BC. In one of the formulae Tolkapiyar in his treatise uses the phrase "like the lamp’s flame pointing upwards." In another epic Jeevakachintamani written by a Jain poet, Thiruthakka Thevar, the poet describes how people celebrated the Karthigai Deepam festival.

In Karnarpadu, the poet in one of the stanzas, describes how in the Tamil month of Karthigai during the time of the Krittika star, the lamps lit by people blossomed on earth, bringing rain in its wake. In another Tamil work, the Kalavazhi Narpadu dating back to the third Sangam period (after 1000 B.C) the poet says, "In the battle the blood oozing out from the dead soldiers´ bodies is like the red coloured flame of the lamps lit during Karthigai Deepam festival".

In another Sangam work, Pazhamozhi, in stanzas ending in proverbs, one stanza ends with this phrase, "like the beacon on the Hill." In Sambandar´s Tevaram, while trying to raise a young girl Poompavai from the dead, he asks with deep feeling, "O Poompavai, have you gone without seeing the ancient Karthigai festival?" Another song in Tevaram says that the Lord is verily the Deepam (lit during the Karthigai festival).

There is a work on Karthigai Deepam consisting of a hundred stanzas, praising the festival. When Muruganar asked Bhagavan Ramana about the significance of the Karthigai Deepam festival, Bhagavan composed a stanza of four lines in which he says, "The true significance of the Karthigai Deepam festival is that it turns the intellect inwards and having fixed it in the Heart merges it with the indweller of the Heart".

[By Rajaniyer]

Deepam Legend

The first night of the lighting of the Deepam Flame, 2007, will be November 24th. In this respect, there are two famous myths from the Puranas that describe the history behind the famous yearly Deepam on the top of Arunachala. The first is about Brahma and Vishnu's dispute over the column of light and the other is of the boon given by Shiva for Parvati's penace in atonement for killing the demon Mahisasura, a devotee of Shiva.

It is customary to celebrate Deepam in all Shiva Shrines at the same time that Deepam is celebrated at Arunachala, however the legend for these Siva Shrines is different to that of Arunachala. This other legend goes thus:

The Ghee Lamp, Rat and King:

While Lord Shiva was seated in Mount Kailas with Devi Uma, a ghee lamp was in the process of extinction. A rat nearby approached it to drink the ghee and in that act the wick was pushed out a little, enabling the flame to brighten. This pious act though unintentional, resulted in the rat securing a human birth with huge wealth and the rank of a King.

With that prosperous boon the rat was born on earth as Mabali. Mabali, while reigning in all glory, one day wanted to worship Siva and went to a Siva shrine with all his royal paraphernalia. While in the Temple, a drop from a ghee lamp fell upon Mabali. The King got sores from that one drop and his malady continued for a long time.

It was then Lord Siva proclaimed, "King, thou art very arrogant. Hence you got this trouble through me. From this day on if you light Shiva shrines with ghee, you will be rid of your sores and live happily." Highly delighted on hearing these words the King from that day commenced lighting Shiva Temples and dark places with ghee (clarified butter) lamps. Lord Shiva looking at the king's piety, gave him liberation in the month of Kartigai on star Kartigai during poorva Paksha.

It is for the reason the Lord appeared before the King in the form of Light, that Deepam Darsan is celebrated in all Siva Shrines on this same day every year.