20 February 2012

2012 Mahashivaratri Arunachaleswarar Temple

During the day, artists made large coloured floor decorations throughout the Temple Compound, in themes connected with Lord Shiva. Its always nice when the gates leading to the Temple Tanks are opened and pilgrims can walk around the side of the tank, sit on the steps and even, during this particular night, place their lighted deepams around the Tanks' perimeters.

This evening there will be cultural programmes conducted in the Temple's Outside Hall and later an elaborate all night puja will be conducted inside the Lingam Mulasthana and a shorter puja at the Lingodbhavamurti (located outside the back wall of the Lingam Mulasthana).


Right Click on all photographs to view enlargements



Shiva Lingam



Shiva with the Goddess Ganga
flowing from his head



Ardhanarishvara



Dakshinamurti



Individual Deepams on
Perimeter of Temple Tank


2012 Mahashivaratri Legends and Significance


Each month there is day known as Sivaratri and once a year there is Mahashivaratri (maha=great) -- the Great Festival of Shiva. The dates of these occasions correspond to certain phases of the new moon when it is believed that the mind (which is adversely affected by the power of the moon) is less susceptible to low, animalistic forces and thus more tractable to the power of meditation and prayer.

It is for this reason that Mahashivaratri is believed to be the one 24-hour period in the year which is of the greatest benefit. It has been stated in the scriptures that if a man fasts, stays awake and meditates for the whole of Mahashivaratri, it will give him his best chance to achieve mastery of the mind and attain liberation.

Mahashivaratri always falls on the fourteenth day of the dark fortnight of Phalguna (February-March), and is dedicated to the worship of Lord Shiva. (Mahashivaratri in 2012 falls on Monday, February 20th). On this day devotees sing Shiva bhajans, recite verses from scriptures, offer prayers in the morning and evening, and some observe fasting throughout the day. People visit Shiva Temples and in the case of Arunachala, premier Shiva site of South India, circumambulation of Arunachala Hill is observed by many.

The name Shiva signifies a quality that means 'Auspicious' or 'The Auspicious One'. To a few, Shiva is Paramatman, Brahman, the Absolute, but many more prefer to see Shiva as a personal God given to compassion for his worshippers, and the dispenser of both spiritual and material blessings. Related to the Absolute concept is Shiva as Yoganath, the Lord of Yoga, wherein he becomes teacher, path and goal. As such he is the Adi Guru or Highest Guru of sannyasins who have renounced the world to attain the Absolute.

One of the early traditions, is Shiva in the form of Dakshinamurti; the South-Facing Guru. In this form, seated on a low platform, with one leg hanging down in front, he communicated the Sanatana Dharma or Eternal Wisdom to the four Kumaras who appeared early in creation. The Guru spoke no words but taught them by the transmission of mind-to-mind, and its purpose was to show that man can realise the Absolute when the human mind is in complete equipoise with the Cosmic Mind.





While almost all other festivals are celebrated during the day, Mahashivaratri is celebrated at night: and night stands for all that is evil; ignorance, darkness, sin, violence, treachery, falsehood, and misfortune. Mythology says that Shiva appeared to save the world from Tamoguna (darkness and ignorance).

There are a number of legends connected with the origin of Shivaratri. One such legend is that Lord Shiva and the Goddess Parvati were married on this day.





Our own Arunachala legend, proclaims it to be the day Lord Shiva appeared as a luminous Jyotilingam before Brahma and Vishnu.





On Mahashivaratri, Lord Shiva is Lingodbhavamurti, the pillar of fire that spans all, with no beginning and no end. The devout believe that they are on their way to oneness with Shiva, that they will join with the Supreme after hours of darkness spent in fasting and prayer. The worship of Lingodbhavamurti is with the leaves of the bilva, gathered from quince trees. The lingam is showered, unceasingly, with basketfuls of these, and other flowers, (just as the hunter in the below legend once did).

And it is believed that on the day of Mahashivaratri, all twelve Jyotirlingams of India manifested.






Shiva Purana legend about the Hunter and the Lingam:-

“In ancient times, a Bheel (forest inhabitant) named Gurudruha trudged through a forest to hunt deer. At night, without having sighted a single animal, he climbed a Bilva (Aegle marmelos) tree on the banks of a lake. Later at night, a doe arrived to drink water. Gurudruha aimed his bow and arrow at her. While aiming, he unknowingly dropped some Bilva leaves and his drinking water below on a Shivalingam that happened to be under the tree. The deer then requested him to allow her to entrust her fawns to her husband, after which she would return. After much haggling he agreed.

While awaiting her return, he stayed awake by aimlessly plucking leaves and dropping them below. Again they fell on the Shivalingam. Thus he unknowingly performed its puja (worship) while remaining awake all night. Finally the doe returned with her family, She informed him that along with her, he'd have to kill her family too. As he aimed, some more leaves fluttered down on the Shivalingam.

The collective punya (spiritual merit) accrued from the puja performed unknowingly, eradicated all his sins. This purified his heart. Repenting his flawed life of sin, he set the deer free. As he sat repenting, Lord Shiva manifested in front of him and granted him a boon, "You shall be born in a town known as Shrungver, as a man named Gruha. Lord Vishnu will grace your home as Lord Rama and redeem you." (This event is described in the Ramayana.) Shiva also blessed the deer, which attained a better destiny.”

Another legend of Mahashivaratri traces the origin of this festival to the churning of the Ocean of Milk by devas (gods) and asuras (demons). It is said that when both gods and demons were churning the Ocean of Milk to obtain amrita (water of immortal life), they came across many unusual substances, including the deadly poison Kalakuta. As soon as they touched the poison, it exploded into poisonous fumes that threatened to envelope the entire Universe with darkness.






When the destruction of the Universe seemed inevitable, the gods ran for assistance from Brahma and Vishnu, but neither was able to help. At last they ran to Lord Shiva, who raised his trident and condensed the fumes. In order to save the creation, Shiva swallowed the poison without spilling a single drop. The poison left a dark blue mark on Shiva's throat. The gods praised and worshipped Shiva for saving the Universe.






The Ocean of Milk represents the ideal world that is full of peace and happiness for all human beings. Churning the Ocean of Milk signifies the human activity in the world. The amrita symbolizes happiness and the poison represents human greed and selfishness. Shiva symbolizes the atman (self), and worship of Shiva denotes meditation and contemplation by an individual on his or her own self.

Thus the only way to achieve peace and happiness is by worshipping Shiva at night, that is, by meditating on one's own self during the night when the individual is free from the distractions of the physical world. When the individual attains self-knowledge, he or she can live in the world without being affected by anger, greed, and selfishness, the three enemies of one's soul. Mahashivaratri symbolizes the worship of the atman within.
On the night of Mahashivaratri one can devote oneself to the chanting of the Vedic Rudram, or the five-syllable mantra of Shiva - Om Namah Shivaya - and on meditating on Him, thereby remembering one's ultimate goal, which is God Realization, the purpose of human birth. By ascending to the top of Arunachala within oneself, and trying to experience the presence of the God Shiva within as one's very own self, and simultaneously as the Universal Self permeating the entire universe, one draws close to Lord Shiva on this night.

On this day it is easy to please Lord Shiva by fasting and prayer. The main prayer is usually conducted during the night. Every three hours the devotee worships Lord Shiva in the form of a Shiva Lingam and bathing the Lingam with milk, ghee, honey, curd, rose water, etc. Lord Shiva is also greatly pleased by the offering of Bilva leaves. This worship is replicated in the worship at the Arunachaleswarar Temple which will take place tonight:

1st Kala Puja Night (20th February) 8.30 p.m.
2nd Kala Puja Night (20th February) 11.00 p.m.
3rd Kala Puja Morning (21st February) 02.00 a.m.
4th Kala Puja Morning (21st February) 04.00 a.m.

I will post photographs of the Mahashivaratri celebrations at Arunachaleswarar Temple when they become available.

19 February 2012

Tiru Kurippu Thonda Nayanar


In my previous posting about the schedule of pujas and cultural programmes for the 2012 Arunachaleswarar Mahashivaratri Festival, I mentioned that as part of the cultural programme there would be a puppet dance/show iside the Big Temple Cultural Hall (near Rukku the Elephant) on February 20th from 7.30 to 8.30 p.m., based on the life of the Nayanar Tiru Kurippu Thonda. Below is the story of this great Saivite saint as appears in the Periapuranam.



Tiru Kurippu Thonda Nayanar

In a part of Kanchi, there lived a devotee of Lord Shiva, born in the community of washermen, hereditarily dedicated to the Lord’s service; his heart was full of love and his conduct was exemplary. He did the service of washing for the residents of the city – he was regarded as “the great launderer”. His glory could not be described in words. To the devotees of the Lord who melted at the mere mention of His name, he would with great joy, render the “washing service”. When he washed away the dirt in the garments of the Lord’s devotees, he did really wash off the three kinds of blemishes, that had accrued through the past births of his.

One chilly day, the Lord, to show to the world the real glory of this Saint, came until him, in the guise of a poor old man, dressed in a filthy rag. Beholding Him, the Tondannar, divined his intent and pleased joyfully: “Sire, how it is that you look so weary? Please give me your garment, to be washed by me”. The Lord replied: “It is true that this cloth has become too filthy to be worn; yet, it is the only protection I have against the biting chill air; I cannot abide the night’s cold. If you assure me that you will return this cloth, duly washed, before dusk, you may take it and do your work quickly”. The washerman promised to return the cloth before twilight and the Lord handing over his garment reiterated: “Remember that If you fail to return the garment in time, you would be harming this body of Mine”.






The Tondannar went to the ghat, soaked the dirty cloth in water; then put it inside a boiling vat; and after the dirt was removed wrung the garment hard, squeezing out the water in it. Now when he was at the last stage of washing, it began to rain hard, as the Lord willed it.

Recalling his assurance to the devotee, the Tondannar was nonplussed. Seeing no sign of the rain abating, he thought: “The time limit is now past. I have harmed the devotee’s body. For this evil, the only remedy is to shatter my own head on the washing rock”. When he was about to do so, the soft lotus hand of the Lord bearing the impress of the bangle of His gracious consort, rose by the rock and held up his head!

The showers of rain now gave place to showers of celestial flowers and the Lord with His consort mounted on the mighty Bull and gave darshan from on high. When the Tondannar’s hands folded in adoration, the Lord said: “We have now shown to all the worlds the nature of your unique service. Come and abide with me for ever in Sivaloka.” With this, the Lord returned to His own shrine!

To read The Puranam of this Nayanar as English poetry go to this link here.



2012 Arunachala Mahashivaratri Festival


Arunachaleswarar Tiruvannamalai Mahashivaratri Festival
Invitation


Tamil Year (Thiruvalluvar) 2043

On 20.02.2012 Monday








Below is an English translation of the invitation's essential details:-

On behalf of Shivaratri 20.02.2012 Monday from morning 5 a.m. in the Mulasthana, Laksharchana will be done and cultural programmes will be performed in the Temple Compound.

Darshan tickets for the Laksharchana puja are available in the Temple Office priced at Rs.100/- per person. Puja will last from 5 a.m. in the morning of February 20th till 2.00 p.m. of the same day.


In the night for the Mulasthana Lingam 4 times pujas with abhiskeham will be performed

1st Kala Puja Night (20th February) 8.30 p.m.
2nd Kala Puja Night (20th February) 11.00 p.m.
3rd Kala Puja Morning (21st February) 02.00 a.m.
4th Kala Puja Morning (21st February) 04.00 a.m.


At 12 midnight on the 20th February there will be a special puja and alankaram performed on the Lingodbhava behind the sanctum of the Mulasthana Lingam.


Cultural Programmes to be performed in the evening of February 20th at the Temple Cultural Hall (near Rukku the Elephant) as follows:-

5.00 p.m. – 6.00 p.m. Devaram Music

6.00 p.m. – 6.30 p.m. Bharatnatyam Dance from the Tiruvannamalai Nataya Sabha by Mrs. Meenakshi Angapam Group

6.30 p.m. – 7.30 p.m. Bharatnatyam Dance by Tiruvannamalai Kala Ratana Nataya Sabha by Kalaiselvi Subramanian

7.30 p.m. – 8.30 p.m. Puppet Dance based on the story of Thiru Kurippu Thonda Nayanar by Kumbakonam Sri Murugan Sangeeta Puppet Dance Group

8.30 p.m. – 9.30 p.m. Bhakti Speech (in Tamil) on Anmegya Nandhavanam By K.R. Singamurtul


18 February 2012

Meypporul Nayanar

Nayanars were from varied backgrounds, ranging from kings and soldiers to untouchables. The story of each saint exhibits different aspects of devotion and is believed to inspire in the reader a greater intensity of love towards Lord Shiva.

The Periapuranam, which is regarded as one of the greatest devotional books in Tamil literature, is a compilation of the lives of these great saints and narrates the history of each of the sixty-three Nayanars.

The below narrative of the king Meypporul Nayanar, serves as an example by showing us the values of tolerance and of doing good even to enemies.



Meypporul Nayanar

The story goes thus:

Meypporul Nayanar was a pious king who ruled over the hill tribes of Sethi. He was chivalrous and brave and there was peace and plenty in his kingdom.. People worshipped him as the living God. He fought many battles and was always victorious.

He was well versed in the Agamas and an ardent devotee of the Lord. To him Siva and His devotees, adorned with matted locks, Rudraksham and sacred ashes represented the only truth, Absolute Truth: and all the rest of the world was straw. He saw everything as Sivamayam. Siva Bhaktas enjoyed absolute freedom in his country: they were honoured by the king and the people alike. Though he ruled the kingdom as the king, his mind was always at the Lord’s Feet. Daily, special prayers and festivals were conducted in the temples in his realm.






Nayanar’s fame spread far and wide. This evoked the jealousy of Muthanathan, the king of a neighbouring state. He collected an army and attacked Nayanar several times; but he was repeatedly defeated. So, Muthanathan resorted to foul-play. One day, he disguised himself as a Siva Yogi and entered the palace at night. The gate-keepers did not question him, but allowed him to proceed. Dathan, the faithful and intelligent servant of Nayanar, was guarding the bedroom in which the king was sleeping. When the Siva Yogi approached the bedroom, Dathan tried to dissuade him from disturbing the king’s sleep; but the Yogi refused to listen, saying: ‘I have some secret Shastra to teach the king. I cannot wait.’ So, Dathan had to allow the Yogi to enter the bedroom of the king, though he was a little suspicious.

Nayanar’s wife got up and, finding a Siva Yogi in the room, quickly awakened her husband. The Siva Yogi told the king that the Shastra was a great secret, revealed by the Lord Himself, and that only the king was entitled to hear it. At once the king sent even the queen away and prostrated before the Yogi, ready to receive the secret. At that moment, the Siva Yogi, who was none else than the jealous king Muthanathan, quickly stabbed Nayanar on his back, with a knife he had kept hidden.

The shrewd Dathan, as he entered the room, found the king on the floor in a pool of blood and Muthanathan with a knife in his hand. He was ready to strike down Muthanathan, when the dying Nayanar said: ‘Datha, he is our man. He has the appearance of a Siva Yogi and so must be honoured as one. Do not harm him. Kindly escort him to the borders of our kingdom, and see that he is unharmed.’ Dathan obeyed the commands of his master. As he was escorting Muthanathan, the people who had heard what happened went to attack Muthanathan, but, as soon as Dathan told them of the king’s commands, they withdrew, admiring the supreme devotion of their king. Thus, Muthanathan was safely escorted out of the kingdom. And, Dathan hastened back to the palace to convey this news to the dying king who was eagerly waiting for it.

As soon as Dathan conveyed the news to the king, the Nayanar called all his Ministers and relatives to his bedside, and spoke to them as follows: ‘It is our duty to serve the Bhaktas. They must be honoured and worshipped at all times and under all circumstances. Let our people walk in the footsteps of the Siva Bhaktas. Let the country be flooded with Siva Bhaktas. By their blessings, let peace and prosperity reign in our land.’ With these words, he closed his eyes and meditated on Lord Siva.

Lord Siva at once appeared before him and blessed him as follows: ‘I am immensely pleased with your devotion to My Bhaktas. I am immensely pleased with your cosmic love and your unquestioning devotion to My devotees. Even in a murderer you saw Me. You are, therefore, fit to reach the Highest Abode which even the Devas cannot hope to reach. You will soon come to My Abode.’ With these words the Lord disappeared: and Meypporul Nayanar (whose name means ‘one for whom God is the sole reality’) also attained His Abode.


Goddess Gowri Ruthatcha Malai



In an earlier posting I talked about Ramesh, a jewellery maker here in Tiruvannamalai, who makes ornaments for Temple Gods fashioned in both precious metals and gemstones, and also in metal amalgamates.






Most of the jewels in major Temples are donations from devotees over the previous several hundred years. In the case of Arunachaleswarar Temple much of the jewellery is of immense age and value.





However the collection of jewellery at Arunachaleswarar Temple is regularly added to by donation from interested devotees.

The below photographs are of one of the most recent jewellery donations to Arunachaleswarar Temple which is of a gold framed medallion embedded with representations of the Gods; Ganesha, Shiva and Parvati along with a rudraraksha golden malai. The jewellery was donated by a wealthy industrialist from Salem. And local newspaper have reported that the value of the piece to be over Rs. 20 Lakhs.











17 February 2012

Poornima 2012 Calendar

Right Click on image for enlargement.


For those who do not read Tamil, the timetable is sequential, starting with January at the top of the list, and running through to December at the bottom of the list.

The last column of the image indicates the date of that month's girivalam.




Ramana Nagar Post Office


I visited the post office in Ramana Nagar recently to mail some packets of the 2011 Deepam Prasad to various spots around the globe.

It was only while in the post office, and the person next to me remarked on the packages, that I noticed that each of the six covers of prasad where addressed to six different countries: USA, Canada, UK, Germany, Malaysia and Australia. On each of the packages I had boldly written the words "Temple Prasad" which I hoped would ensure a good passage via customs.

During my first experience of Arunachala in 1994, I recall how the area was rustic and charmingly undeveloped. At that time it was necessary to go into the town of Tiruvannamalai from Ramana Nagar even to make an STD telephone call. Also at that time there were no supermarkets, Kashmir Fancy Shops or modern shops in the area around the major Ashrams. Without an introduction or a stroke of good luck, it was virtually impossible to even find suitable rental accommodation.

During that first experience of Arunachala I stayed at the then undeveloped Sri Seshadri Ashram which only had a limited number of accommodation rooms. The time was full moon, but the girivalam roadway only had a sparse number of pilgrims occupied in performing girivalam.

It seemed so strange that in a country such as India, where pilgrimage is a national delight, that Arunachala, written about since antiquity and renowned by poets, saints and sages since the beginning of time, could only attract a small number of pilgrims even during the time of Poornima (full moon). And then I realised that the relative obscurity was Arunachala's wish, and that at the right time, the greatest secret in the world -- the Glory of Arunachala -- would manifest itself.

So many years later, and after much change, here I was in the Ramana Nagar Post Office with Arunachala Deepam Prasad (Prasad taken from the very cauldron that burned on the hill during the 2011 Festival) packaged and addressed to six different places in the world. And at that moment I realised that the Hill's relative obscurity was over and that Arunachala was reaching out in its glorious expression to all corners of the world.







Many years ago a devotee of the then Shankaracharya Sri Chandrasekhara of Kanchipuram, who is the Sage mentioned in Paul Brunton's book, "In Search of Secret India," told me that the Shankaracharya had remarked that Arunachala would become the busiest and most famous spiritual site in all of India. And that the crowds that would visit would be unimaginable in size.






This year a TV series started in Andhra Pradesh based on the life of Sri Ramana Maharshi and his experiences at Arunachala. As a result of that ongoing series, a huge influx of Andhra devotees are coming to Arunachala to perform girivalam and visit the Arunachaleswarar Temple. And so it goes . . .






During monthly Poornima over 100,000 pilgrims visit to perform girivalam of Arunachala. And this is just the beginning.







The world's greatest secret i.e. the Glory of Arunachala has been exposed and from now on the crowds and interest in this great spiritual lodestone will only increase.







The streets around the Ramana Nagar post office, still seem sleepy and part of a bygone age. But what will be able to resist the expansion of the great heart and glory of the Hill?

And as to the future, read below a fascinating narrative recorded by Sri Ramana Maharshi in [Day by Day with Bhagavan Pages 116-117]:

“In those days these Rajas used to fortify their hills and live there. See Ginjee for instance. The Ginjee fort was built on three hills. They are all in ruins. Padaiveedu nearby in this District was once a great city. Hampi was a great city and the capital of an Empire. It is said that the town was built on the model of a Sri Chakra and that there has been some slight mistake somewhere, and that is why, though the Empire flourished well for a time, it did not endure but failed.

There is a rumour that a prophecy made by Vidyaranya, earlier a Dewan of Hampi Empire and later a Shankaracharya, has declared that when again a descendant of that Empire or a successor of his in the Mutt builds a city on the model of Sri Chakra, a great Empire will again flourish with that city as capital.

Some people have even thought that the present Shankaracharya (note: the now deceased Sri Chandrasekhara Saraswati) might be the person for such destiny. Our Naina used to feel that as this town is by nature itself built on Sri Chakra model, by the Gods themselves, if only we could build houses all round the Hill and make a city of it, this will become the capital of a big Empire. He used to be always thinking and speaking of swaraj (note: self-governance or home rule i.e. from the British) dreaming and planning for it and saying what he would do when swaraj is attained. People say there was a town in the old, old days somewhere here to the South of the Hill. Who knows that will happen hereafter? Did we imagine that all these houses now here were going to be built?”

4 February 2012

Temple Morning


I had a programme to meet with one of the Brahmin priests at the Arunachaleswarar Temple to discuss an upcoming puja, and while at the Temple decided to have a walk about in the outer prakarams.

While there, I set out to find the Adi Mudi shrine, which I had read about on several occasions. Well I finally found it, and will later post more information about the Adi Mudi, which is a unique depiction of Arunachala with Shiva/Parvati.








The silent and deserted outer prakarams of the Temple are beautiful and fascinating, with their unique shrines, gardens, walkways and lovely gokulam, with its cows and calves lying peacefully in the shade.


























While at the Temple I decided to check whether Rukku the Temple elephant had come back from holiday -- she has -- and when I saw her, thought she seemed to be in a grouchy mood -- she certainly made some cross noises to a visiting pilgrim -- maybe she remembers something about him!

I've heard that several animal organisations are working to liberate animals from working in circuses and Temples -- and as far as I'm concerned that day can't come too soon. Poor Rukku, such a sad life -- away from the forests, her own kind, and forced to stand to attention up to 10 hours a day in a single spot, begging on behalf of her trainer by taking coins from pilgrims in exchange for putting her trunk on their heads.

Will write more about Rukku soon, but in the meantime, there is one species of animal that has adapted to modern times and has made the Temple very much their home, whilst maintaining a very nice independence. And that species is the Bonnet Macaque monkey. Cheeky, fearless little souls!











It was that sort of perfect morning. Toasty with a very slight cooling breeze, the Temple Compound deserted, with an underlining harmony and delight in the air. Two gents were sitting in front of a stone, writing the stone's inscription into their notebooks. I talked with them for a few moments, and delighted in their joy with their morning's fun -- and their pleasure in learning more about the history carved on the 200 year old stone.







On such a day, its really easy to understand why this Temple is regarded as the living heart of the town.






24 January 2012

The Walled Garden of Truth



We tried reasoning
our way to Him:
it did not work;
but the moment we gave up,
no obstacle remained.

He introduced himself to us
out of kindness: how else
could we have known him?
Reason took us as far as the door;
but it was his presence that let us in.

But how will you ever known him,
as long as you are unable
to know yourself?

Once one is one,
no more, no less:
error begins with duality;
unity knows no error.

The road your self must journey on
lies in polishing the heart.
It is not by rebellion and discord
that the heart’s mirror is polished free
of the rust of hypocrisy and unbelief:
your mirror is polished by your certitude –
by the unalloyed purity of your faith.

Break free
from your chains you have forged about yourself,
for you will be free when you are free of clay.
The body is dark – the heart is shining bright;
the body is mere compost – the heart a blooming garden.

[Hakim Sanai]

23 January 2012

Babavali Dargah


A favourite place of mine and one curiously undiscovered by most visitors is a large Moslem burial ground located in the middle of Bavajai Nagar contains the dargahs of two Moslem saints. Most Muslims in India belong to the Sunni school, and burial sites for revered religious figures are known as dargahs (or durgahs).

In response to my previous posting and the many enquiries as to the exact location of the burial ground, I am including photographs and directions in this narrative which will help interested visitors locate the compound.

Directions are thus. Leave the front gate of Ramana Ashram (using Ashram as a central point) and take a left. Proceed down Chengam Road towards town for about 200 yards until reaching a fork in the road – take the right side and proceed onwards passed the petrol bunks.




Petrol bunk, right and towards Ashrams.
We go left and towards town



There is never a quiet time on
Tiruvannamalai roads nowadays




Turning for Subramanian Theatre
coming up on left side



A hundred yards after the petrol bunk on the left side there is the Subramanian theatre, just after the theatre is an orange facility.



Orange painted facility



Across the road from the facility is a tiny lane. Go down the lane.



Tiny lane



30 yards on the right side is the Muttu Karimariamman Temple.



Small Muttu Karimariamman Kovil



Just after the Temple on the left side is a high white wall (it is in front of the big building in the left background of this photograph). In the middle of the wall is a large closed metal gateway. Next to the gateway, is a small opening with bars. The opening will be unlocked, push to enter.



To enter compound use doorway left side,
front of big building at left background



You are now inside the very large 4-5 acre burial ground. There will be a few local villagers inside the compound making bamboo leaf rice winnowing baskets. You don’t need to speak with them to ask permission to be inside the compound, they too are visitors and guests.



Surprising to be in such a large open place
in middle of busy Bavajai Nagar


The whole grounds empty
except for about 4-5 shrines



Quiet, peaceful compound






The second structure on the left side is the dargah of Mahan Aharajath Jaguhthum Sha Valiullha. He was born in Tirupattur as Sayed Abdullah Basha. His guru gave him a new name and sent him to Tiruvannamalai with the instructions to meditate at Babavali Dargah at the grave of his own Guru, Syed Munivar Sha, who died over 400 years previously.




Dargah of Mahan Sarat



Mahan Aharajath lived to about 75 years of age and died over 100 years ago. He instructed his followers that if he died away from Arunachala, that his body be brought back to this place. In this, the saint was prescient, as he was to die in Chennai, and from there his body was brought back to Tiruvannamalai and now rests in this Dargah.






The custodian Sardhar Bai at the Dargah relates that Ramana Maharshi was known to have spent time in meditation at the burial ground. Subsequently many of his devotees visited the burial ground, which later was to gain the reputation of being a place of mystical powers.



Dargah of Mahan Sarat



Thus far the only known narrative of this place is a short extract taken from the book In Days of Great Peace by Mouni Sadhu.


“One day, a friend invited me to attend worship in the mosque of Tiruvannamalai. I went and was told the strange story of a North Indian Mohammedan saint, generally called Haji here. A few days before his death he said to his pupils:

When I leave my physical form, my Spirit will remain with you. Let everyone, without any difference of creed and social status, come to my grave whenever he may be in need of help. Let him express his need or wish as clearly as he would, were he facing my present visible form. I shall certainly hear his entreat and shall transmit it to the Most High, who will fulfil it for the sake of His servant




Dargah of Sayed Munivar Sha



For me, the tomb of the Mohammedan saint proved to be one of these magnetic spots. in a few moments, after having excluded the visible words from my consciousness, I became aware of the Hajis presence. It was like that of a sweet and extremely kind person asking me what were my needs and wishes and urging me to express them frankly without any shyness or reservation .....

During the next weeks I returned several times to this silent shrine, having some entangled and difficult problems to solve. One of them seemed utterly hopeless, for its solution from the physical point of view was impossible. And yet, within three days after my last visit and request for the Hajis help, a happy and unexpected solution came of itself without intervention on my part.”


16 January 2012

The Five Nandis

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During Mattu Pongal at Arunachaleswarar Temple, apart from other celebrations, five Nandis inside the Temple are lavishly decorated with garlands and foodstuff.






The five Nandis are; Pradosha Nandi, in the Moolastanam, Ratha Vilaku Nandi in the Second Prakaram, Kodi Kampathu Nandi in the Third Prakaram, Chinna Nandi in the fourth prakaram and the Periyar Nandi that stands in front of the Vallala Gopuram in the Fifth Prakaram.