People in Town

By now its around 10 a.m. on Maha Radham day and the Vinayaka Chariot is still going around the perimeter roads surrounding the 26 acre Arunachaleswarar Temple. As the Chariot is being pulled along by devotees tugging on chains, it should take quite a few hours. The crowds gradually begin to build up as the morning progresses. So I go wandering the streets checking out whats happening.

Here is a man selling Chakra Valli Kilanku, which is a root vegetable reputed to be very effective in cooling body heat and also relieving and helping with all kinds of gastric and digestive problems. It tastes rather like sweet cucumber, and interestingly it tastes very cool - like it has just come out of the fridge.

Below a stall selling all kinds of sweets, candies, laddus and eatables.

Young lads roaming around selling toys, horns and flutes.

Everywhere you go, there are flowers. Most of which have come from local farmers who have brought in their blooms early in the morning.

Some balloons with lots of free advertising for Companies we all recognise.

A mountain of delicious, fresh, puri, a nice tasty roasted rice. The Indian version of snacking on popcorn - but in this case we have a rice eatable and a nice big mountain of it to get through!

Feeling a little hungry so stopped by Hotel Deepam on Car Street for a couple of Dosai Roasts. In front of the restaurant is a small store selling cigarettes, newspapers, sweets etc., which a young lad was tending on behalf of his Dad. Many of the children have up to 10 days holidays because of the Deepam Festivals.

Vinayaka Chariot

These photographs are from Wednesday the 21st November; the day of Maha Radham, the biggest and grandest procession of Deepam Festival. I was very eager to attend so decided to turn up early. Walking towards Arunachaleswarar Temple around 9 a.m. I met up with the oncoming Vinayaka chariot which was preceded by Rukku the Temple Elephant. On this day a total of five chariots will go around the perimeter roads of the Temple; Vinayaka, Lord Murugan, Parashakti, Chandikeswarar and finally on the giant chariot, Arunachaleswarar (Shiva) with Unnamulaiyaal (Parvati).

Rukku is very nicely dressed for the day wearing her cover of the Goddess Meenakshi.

In the below photograph the ladies are tugging on a huge linked chain that is pulling along the chariot.

Whenever the chariot gets stuck the men insert large wooden clogs under the wheels.

Which they jump upon to move along the chariot. Once the chariot is moving again, the clog lever is removed until the next jam-up.

Karthigai Lamps

Lamps are of varied sizes, shapes and colours. Traditionally, lamps are lit in temples and agal vilakkus adorn the thinnais of houses. Bigger lamps made of mud; stone and metal are lit inside homes. The ancient Tamils are said to have even imported lamps from as far as Greece and Rome, through the ports of Arikamedu (near Puducherry), Mallai or Mamallapuram and Mylai or Mylapore (part of present-day Chennai). One such imported lamp was of the hanging variety, designed in the shape of a swan with a fish placed at the top.

Another variety of lamp, common in Tamil Nadu from early times was the Lakshmi Vilakku or Pavai Vilakku. It was shaped like a woman (bearing in her folded palms), the shallow bowl containing oil for lighting the lamp.

At Arikamedu, archaeologists have unearthed a flat circular clay lamp with four nozzles or petals or openings for four wicks. Another clay lamp discovered at this site has 12 nozzles.

The ubiquitous five-nozzle kuthu vilakku has been in use from the days of the Cholas or perhaps even earlier. When the British East India Company began to rule parts of South India, it featured the petals or nozzles of the kuthu vilakku on some of the coins that were minted. The five petals or nozzles are also said to denote the five main elements are supposed to represent the five elements of Nature — earth, water, fire, air and sky or space. The five nozzles are also said to denote the five main elements needed for a successful life — health, wealth, learning, courage and longevity.

Silver Kuthuvilakkus

The three Gods Bramha, Vishnu and Shiva are believed to be present in the Vilakku. At the base part is Bramha,the middle part Vishnu and the broad part on top is Shiva

The Glow of the vilakku is represented as Goddess Lakshmi,the Light by Goddess Saraswati and the Heat by Goddess Parvati.

Vilakkupic

The five wicks in the kuthuvilakku represents our five senses and also the Panchaboothangal: 5 elements of the World; Earth, Water, Air, Sky and FireTraditionally, after Karthigai, most of these lamps, except for those in daily use, were cleaned and stacked away, and taken out only the next year for the festival. In the old, tiled-roof houses, agal vilakkus were invariably stacked in the loft beneath the roof.

Karthigai in Tamil Literature

Karthigai is essentially a festival of lamps. The lighted lamp is considered an auspicious symbol. It is believed to ward off evil forces and usher in prosperity and joy. While the lighted lamp is important for all Hindu rituals and festivals, it is indispensable for Karthigai.

In ancient Tamil literature, the oldest available work Tolkappiyam gives in concise verse form rules for Tamil grammar as well as other topics. Scholars agree that this work dates back to 2000 or 2500 BC. In one of the formulae Tolkapiyar in his treatise uses the phrase "like the lamp’s flame pointing upwards." In another epic Jeevakachintamani written by a Jain poet, Thiruthakka Thevar, the poet describes how people celebrated the Karthigai Deepam festival.

In Karnarpadu, the poet in one of the stanzas, describes how in the Tamil month of Karthigai during the time of the Krittika star, the lamps lit by people blossomed on earth, bringing rain in its wake. In another Tamil work, the Kalavazhi Narpadu dating back to the third Sangam period (after 1000 B.C) the poet says, "In the battle the blood oozing out from the dead soldiers´ bodies is like the red coloured flame of the lamps lit during Karthigai Deepam festival".

In another Sangam work, Pazhamozhi, in stanzas ending in proverbs, one stanza ends with this phrase, "like the beacon on the Hill." In Sambandar´s Tevaram, while trying to raise a young girl Poompavai from the dead, he asks with deep feeling, "O Poompavai, have you gone without seeing the ancient Karthigai festival?" Another song in Tevaram says that the Lord is verily the Deepam (lit during the Karthigai festival).

There is a work on Karthigai Deepam consisting of a hundred stanzas, praising the festival. When Muruganar asked Bhagavan Ramana about the significance of the Karthigai Deepam festival, Bhagavan composed a stanza of four lines in which he says, "The true significance of the Karthigai Deepam festival is that it turns the intellect inwards and having fixed it in the Heart merges it with the indweller of the Heart".

[By Rajaniyer]

Deepam Legend

The first night of the lighting of the Deepam Flame, 2007, will be November 24th. In this respect, there are two famous myths from the Puranas that describe the history behind the famous yearly Deepam on the top of Arunachala. The first is about Brahma and Vishnu's dispute over the column of light and the other is of the boon given by Shiva for Parvati's penace in atonement for killing the demon Mahisasura, a devotee of Shiva.

It is customary to celebrate Deepam in all Shiva Shrines at the same time that Deepam is celebrated at Arunachala, however the legend for these Siva Shrines is different to that of Arunachala. This other legend goes thus:

The Ghee Lamp, Rat and King:

While Lord Shiva was seated in Mount Kailas with Devi Uma, a ghee lamp was in the process of extinction. A rat nearby approached it to drink the ghee and in that act the wick was pushed out a little, enabling the flame to brighten. This pious act though unintentional, resulted in the rat securing a human birth with huge wealth and the rank of a King.

With that prosperous boon the rat was born on earth as Mabali. Mabali, while reigning in all glory, one day wanted to worship Siva and went to a Siva shrine with all his royal paraphernalia. While in the Temple, a drop from a ghee lamp fell upon Mabali. The King got sores from that one drop and his malady continued for a long time.

It was then Lord Siva proclaimed, "King, thou art very arrogant. Hence you got this trouble through me. From this day on if you light Shiva shrines with ghee, you will be rid of your sores and live happily." Highly delighted on hearing these words the King from that day commenced lighting Shiva Temples and dark places with ghee (clarified butter) lamps. Lord Shiva looking at the king's piety, gave him liberation in the month of Kartigai on star Kartigai during poorva Paksha.

It is for the reason the Lord appeared before the King in the form of Light, that Deepam Darsan is celebrated in all Siva Shrines on this same day every year.

Festival of Lights

Karthigai Deepam — the festival of lights celebrated throughout Tamil Nadu during the month of Karthigai (November-December), is the oldest festival celebrated in the State. Also, unlike many other Hindu festivals, Karthigai is basically a Tamil festival and is virtually unknown in most other parts of the country.

One of the earliest references to the festival is found in the Ahananuru, a book of poems, which dates back to the Sangam Age (200 B.C. to 300 A.D.). The Ahananuru clearly states that Karthigai is celebrated on the full moon day (pournami) of the Tamil month of Karthigai. It was one of the most important festivals (peruvizha) of the ancient Tamils. Avaiyyar, the renowned poetess of those times, refers to the festival in her songs.

Inscriptions in Tamil temples also refer to the festival. A mid-sixteenth Century inscription at the Arulalaperumal temple in Kancheepuram, refers to the festival as Thiru Karthigai Thirunal. Karthigai is essentially a festival of lamps. The lighted lamp is considered an auspicious symbol. It is believed to ward off evil forces and usher in prosperity and joy. While the lighted lamp is important for all Hindu rituals and festivals, it is indispensable for Karthigai.

[By S.Suresh]

Dig Away Please!

Apart from this evening and a rainy downpour, the weather this last week has been gorgeous - almost like early morning on a Summer's day. Taking advantage of the great weather my 5 dogs and I have been going on early morning walks at Samudram Lake. But actually Samudram currently is no lake at all because of the little rainfall this season. Generally the natural water reservoir fills up during the rainy season and slowly dries up through Summer. This time last year there was already heavy flooding in the land shown in the photographs.

Below is muffin playing in the soft, marshy grass which lies at the edge of a large pond, which is the remains of last year's Lake Samudram. This time last year my puppy would have been a couple of feet underwater - hold your breath little doggy!

Well this is a sight that gladdens my heart. I suppose these men have official permission, otherwise they would be taking the dirt (which is used for construction) in the middle of the night. The Lake is around 700 acres of unspoilt, undeveloped land that is a natural catchment area in rainy season for water pouring off the mountain and surrounding land. Digging out the land and making the lakebed even deeper, just means it will get more flooded and even more impossible for greedy land speculators to persuade politicians to change its status from Poramboke Land (Government) to Patta Land (privately held).

Dig away - please!

The below photo is of four of my dogs, 3 boys standing on the highground, and the little one lower down is the girl Holly.

And no.5 is Wally.

The below photograph is of one of the 'heroes' posing for my camera. Well done Mister!

Favourite Arunachala Activites

In our recent poll asking readers, "What do you enjoy most at Arunachala", 48% answered performing girivalam around the Hill was their favourite event when visiting the area. 35% (of readers) answered their preferred activity was spending time at Ramana Ashram, 33% replied they enjoyed visiting Arunachaleswarar Temple as their major activity, while nearly 22% choose to climb or walk upon the Hill as their primary activity.

[readers were allowed to vote for more than one activity]

Mast Trees

What I and plenty of others think is the sacred Asoka tree is actually something else. The real Asoka Trees is Saraca Asoca or the “sorrow less tree”. See photograph below

Besides being sacred, the Asoka also has many medicinal uses which will be elaborated upon in the next Arunachala Grace Newsletter coming out at the end of this month (for a free subscription, sign up on the left hand column of this Blog).

We often identify the tall, well-pruned trees in parks as “Asoka trees” but they are actually “nettilingams” or Mast Trees, known as Polyalthia longifolia, and belonging to the family Annonaceae.

The tree is found in plentiful numbers around Tiruvannamalai, particularly so in compounds and on side streets outside homes. Native to South India, Polyalthia longifolia is a tall, majestic evergreen tree with a straight trunk, shining drooping leaves and a wavy margin. The trunk is slender with a compact symmetrical crown and the branches spread at right angles from the stem, giving it a pyramid shape. The tall, straight trunks were formerly used for making masts in the days of sailing ships and hence the common name "mast tree."

The flowering season is from February to April, when star like green flowers appear, giving a hazy appearance to the tree. The inconspicuous greenish yellow flowers found in fascicles are almost hidden amongst dense foliage. The clusters of ovoid fruits are at first green, turning fairly deep purple or black when ripe. The soft and light wood is used for making barrels, packing cases, pencils, matches and for scaffolding and carriage shafts.

Polyalthia Longifolia is an excellent avenue tree planted in close rows. It is a favourite tree in the hands of horticulturists for manicured gardens and landscape architecture. Clamorous and squealing throngs of bats and flying foxes feed on the ripe fruits at night, dispersing the seeds. Festoons of leaves are often used to make arches or are strung across doors during religious ceremonies.

The Big Chariot

As always the Big Chariot is parked on Car Street, in front of Arunachaleswarar Temple. Besides the usual maintenance checks and upkeep, it only gets moved around and used once a year and that is during the Deepam Festival on the 7th Day.

Its parked on the road and anyone can get close and look at the beautiful detail and finishing of the Chariot.

And in the below photographs, you can see part of the chains that will be used to haul the chariot all around the outside perimeter of the Big Temple. It is considered a great blessing to pull this chariot and there is never a shortage of willing souls to join the massive lines of people needed to haul it.

Deepam Processions

One of the earliest references to Karthigai Deepam festival is found in the Ahananuru, a book of poems, which dates back to the Sangam Age (200 B.C. to 300 A.D.). The Ahananuru clearly states that Karthigai is celebrated on the full moon day (pournami) of the Tamil month of Karthigai. It was one of the most important festivals (peruvizha) of the ancient.

Karthigai is essentially a festival of lamps. The lighted lamp is considered an auspicious symbol. It is believed to ward off evil forces and usher in prosperity and joy and indispensavle for the festival of Karthigai.

After the completion of the preliminary 3 day functions; Sri Durgambal on Kamadenu vahanam, Sri Pidariamman on Lion vahanam, Sri Vinayagar on Mooshiga vahanam, the ten days of Bhrammotsavam which takes place in the month of Kartikai (Scorpio, Nov 15 through December 15), started up today.

Each of these festival days is marked by a procession of the Pancha Murthis (5 God idols) inside the Big Temple and around the streets of Tiruvannamalai. The Gods are; Arunachaleswarar (Shiva), Unnamulaiyaal (Shakti, Parvati), Ganapati, Subramanian (Murugan) and Chandikeswarar in gaily decorated mounts.

Most noteworthy among the proceesions are the Rishabha Vahana Utsavam celebrated on the fifth evening (19th November) of the festival and the Rathotsavam (Maha Radham) Big Wooden Chariot around roads of town, celebrated on the seventh day of the festival (November 21st).

Order of Processions

First Day 15th November
Day: Panchamoorthies
Five Deities Silver Chariot

Night: Panchamoorthies
Mooshigan Mayil (Peacock), Adihara Nandi (Bull),
Sina Rishaba Chariots

********************

Second Day, 16th November
Day: Sri Vinayagar
Sri ChandrasekaraVimanams
(Chariots) of Sooriya Prabha; the Sun.

Night: Panchamoorthies
Silver Indra Vimanam Chariots


********************

Third Day, 17th November
Day: Sri Vinayagar
Sri Chandrasekara in new Vahanams

Night: Panchamoorthies
Simha (Lion) Vaahanamam,
Silver Swan etc

********************

Fourth Day, 18th November
Day: 1008 Sanka Abishekam,Sri Vinayagar,
Sri Chandrasekara Vimanams - Naga (Cobra) Vahanam

Night: Panchamoorthies
Silver Kalpatraru, Kamadenu (Cow of Plenty),
Ruby and Silver Chariots.

********************

Fifth Day, 19th November
Day: Sri Vinayagar
Sri Chandraskara Glass, Rishaba Vahanams, Silver Elephant

MAJOR PROCESSION Night: Panchamoorthies
Silver Mooshigan,Silver Mayil
Large Silver Bull Rishaba Vahanam

********************

Sixth Day, 20th November
Day: Sixty-Three Nayanmars (Saints)
Sri Vinayagar, Sri Chandraskara Mooshikan

Night: Panchamoorthies
Indra Vimanam - Silver Car, Etc.

********************

Seventh Day, 21st November
BIGGEST AND GRANDEST PROCESSION
Big Wooden Chariot -
The Maha Radham around roads of town

Night: Panchamoorthies reach Ashthana Mandapam

********************

Eighth Day, 22nd November
Day: Sri Vinayagar,Sri Chandrasekara, Silver Chariot

Night: Panchamoorthies start with Horse
Vahanams etc at night 4.p.m. Pichandavar in Golden Meru

********************

Ninth Day, 23rd November
Day: Sri Vinayagar,Sri Chandrasekara, Glass Vimanam

Night: Panchamoorthies
Kailasa Vahanam,
Kamadenu - Cow of plenty
Raveneswaram Vahanam etc.

********************

Tenth Day, 24th November
MAHADEEPAM DAY

4 a.m. Maha Barani
Day: Tank Teertham
Ceremony 4.00 A.M.

Dusk: Panchamoorthies in Golden Vimanams
6 p.m. Deepam fire on top of Mountain.
Tank Ceremony


********************

Tank Ceremony
25th November
Day: Sri Chandrasekara Boating Festival

Night: Panchamoorthies in Golden Rishaba Vimanams.

********************

Tank Ceremony
26th November
Day: Sri Parasakthi Boating Festival

Night: 7 p.m Sri Arunachaleswara
and Mother Apeethakuchalambal
Sri Chandikeswarar

********************

Tank Ceremony
27th November
Day: Sri Subramania Boating Festival

********************

Tank Ceremony
28th November
Day: Sri Chandikeswarar Festival

Night: Sri Chandikeswarar Utsavam
Rishaba Vahanam
Silver Bull.

Deepam - First three days

November 12th: Sri Durgambal Urchavam, Night, Sri Durgambal on Kamadenu Vahanam

November 13th: Sri Pidari Urchavam, Night, Sri Pidariamman on Lion Vahanam

November 14th: Sri Vinayagar Urchavam, Night, Sri Vinayagar on Mooshiga Vahanam

* (Urchavam = Tamil word for temple festivals)
* (Kamadenu = wish fulfilling cow)
* (Vahanam = vehicle, seat)
* (Mooshiga = mouse)

Yesterday evening I performed giripradakshina around Arunachala and coming back through the town of Tiruvannamalai (during my hillround) I was able to enjoy the first night of Deepam Festival, namely, Sri Durgambal Urchavam.

The Deepam festival involves a lot more than just the lighting of the flame on top of Arunachala. The first night of the lighting of the flame actually takes place on the 10th day of Deepam and stays alight for between 8-10 days. However the Festival itself lasts for 13 days. Of these the first day is connected with the Durga Amman Temple. Each day denotes different functions and ceremonies at either the Durga Temple, the Annamalai Temple or in the streets surrounding them.

Deepam is a festival which traditionally is connected with the Hill and Arunachaleswarar Temple and Durga Amman Koil (Koil = Temple), is the only other Arunachala Temple that actually participates in the functions.

The reason for this is supposed to be because of the Goddess and the demon Mahisha (see 'The Fight with Mahishasura'). Before her battle the Goddess appointed four noble Bhairavis (celestial damsels) to keep watch on all four sides of Arunagiri. She ordered:

"Admit only those who have come to worship Arunachala and are tired, hungry and thirsty. Others should not enter. She then appointed strong men to guard the boundaries of Arunachala and continued Her penace at Her ashram." [The Glory of Arunachala]

For this reason, the first day of Deepam Festival is always a celebration of the Goddess, recognised as a Guardian of Arunachala.

The below sequence of photographs shows the procession of the Durga Statue seated on Kamadhenu (the wish fulfilling cow) and being taken on a clockwise procession from Durga Amman Temple around the perimeter streets of the 26 acre Arunachaleswarar Temple and thereafter returning back to her own Temple. As is always the case in such functions, the procession stops whenever people along the route make offerings.

This year 4 large screens have been installed around the Temple, and one giant screen inside, so that later days of the Festival can be seen by the greatest number of devotees.

The procession through the town plays a very important role in maintaining a living relationship with the ordinary folk going about their business throughout the day, who sometimes may not have sufficient opportunities to attend functions inside the Temple itself.

And in the below photograph, the Goddess seated on Kamadhenu, the cow.

The peacock feather, which is positioned just above the cows tail, denotes auspiciousness.

Here we are at the front of the Big Temple. The decorations have already been put up, and hopefully one evening I will climb part of the Hill to take nice photographs of just how beautiful the brightly lit Temple looks.

While accompanying the Goddess procession, I also took some wonderful photographs of the huge chariot - which will be used later during Deepam. You can get an idea of its size by noticing the man in front of the huge wooden wheels.

As we passed near the flower market, I noticed some cows scavenging through the debris and discarded flower garlands.

In the next photograph, the chariot has halted so that a devotee may present their offering to the priest to be offered up to the Goddess in the appropriate fashion.

And next the glorious Goddess.

Its nearly midnight and still some stragglers wait expectantly outside their homes so that they may take darshan of the Goddess and offer up their offerings.

I'm ready to make my way home so I have a quick chat with the friendly policeman helping with the procession and proceed homeward after a beautiful and inspirational evening.

I hope to post information and photographs of at least another couple of events connected with this years Deepam. So keep checking back for updates.

Beautiful Ganesha

I went on giripradakshina yeterday evening and noticed the new amazing 3-D statues of the Gods; Ganesha, Lakshmi and Saraswati on the outer wall of Vallalar Complex off the hillround roadway.

So here is the statue of Ganesha taken from the leftside.

Now, from the right side.


And from his very best side.

The Vallalar Complex is really fascinating with lots of different features that I hope to feature in an upcoming newsletter sometime. A really interesting new development in the area.

Have we changed the name?

Have we changed the name? Because nobody has told me or anyone else here at Tiruvannamalai!

Well I feel a little disappointed in my previously respected source of what I considered good information - i.e. Wikipedia, 'the free encyclopedia'. A couple of times when supplying a link to articles mentioned in my narratives, I referred to Wikipedia as an authority, however specialists of subjects of some of the narratives got in touch to suggest better links. I rather think those people are now right because of my own experience with Wikipedia, 'the free encyclopedia'.

Go to the 'Wikipedia' site at http://www.en.wikipedia.org/ and type 'Arunachala' in the search box and you will be sent to 'Annamalai Hill'. Which is an article supposedly maintained by the 'Tamil Nadu Work Group, to 'improve organisation and standardised look and feel of articles related to the Indian State of Tamil Nadu.' The Group has decided to abandon the name 'Arunachala' (Sanksrit) in preference for the name 'Annamalai' (Tamil).

Ironically in their blurb on the 'Annamalai Hill' page, the Group also kindly informs us that; 'This place is also known by the names Arunagiri, Annamalai, Arunachalam, Arunai, Sonagiri and Sonachalam'. Not once mentioning the accepted and loved name (used since antiquity) of 'Arunachala'.

On further investigation I also see that 'Arunachaleswarar Temple' has now been christened 'Annamalaiyar Temple' by the Tamil Group intelligentsia.

Yesterday evening I performed giripradakshina around the Hill, and pretending I was a new arrival to the area, asked many local, ordinary Tamil-speaking residents - 'What is the name of this Hill?' Each one answered 'Arunachala' on my second enquiry, 'Isn't the correct name Annamalai Hill?' I was invariably and patiently informed, 'Annamalai' is a name for Shiva, but the Hill is Arunachala and the God, Arunachaleswarar.

Well the Tamil language intelligentsia have been very successful in lots of expensive, unnecessary name changes i.e. Madras to Chennai, etc., so one needs to wait and see. But one thing for sure I will definitely be using Wikipedia a whole bunch less.