Ashta Lingams

Arunachala is surrounded by eight lingams (ashta lingams) each residing in one of the eight directions of the four cardinal points (South – Yama, West – Varuna, North – Kubera, and East – Indra) and four incardinal points (South East – Agni, South West – Nirudhi, North West – Vayu and North East – Esanaya).

Map of Lingams

The guardians of the four cardinal directions are called the Lokapalas and are the deities who rule the specific directions of space. The name for the eight deities, four of the cardinal and four of the incardinal directions is 'Asta-Dikpalas'.

Yama Lingam

By the turn of the 20^th Century many of the shrines, temples and tirthams at Arunachala were in a state of neglect and decay. In the case of the Ashta Lingams the areas around the shrines were filled with squatters and encroachments and the Ashta Lingams shrines themselves were unmaintained and their worship ignored.

Varuna Lingam

It is believed by many that the work done by I.S.V. Arunachala Mooppanar (Mooppanar Swamigal) renovating and restoring the Ashta Lingams and their adjacent land, was responsible for helping to restablish the energetic power of the sacred geometry of Arunachala. It is certainly an interesting coincidence (?!) that since the renewal of these shrines, crowds of devotees flock to perform Girivalam of the Hill.

Kubera Lingam

As so little is known about this excellent Arunachaleswarar devotee, I am including below an interesting biography of his life and divinely inspired work and am including photographs of the four Cardinal Lingams.

Indra Lingam

Life and Work of Arunachala Mooppanar (I.S.V. Arunachala Mooppanar)

It was late evening, Saturday, April 10, 1999, when I.S.V. Arunachala Mooppanar (lovingly referred to as Mooppanar Swamigal), shed his mortal coil to reach the Feet of Lord Annamalaiyar, as Lord Siva is known in Tiruvannamalai. He was 76. It was a great loss to all those who had come to know and love him for his selfless life as a sivathondan, servant of Siva. In Tiruvannamalai, where he had spent the last 35 years, he was referred to as the 64th Nayanar (the saints of Tamil Saivism)--a place he richly deserved.

Mooppanar led a married life for 22 years. Having no children, he adopted his elder brother's son and daughter when the former remarried on the demise of his first wife. When the daughter reached marriageable age, she died suddenly through illness. This was traumatic for Mooppanar. The son was then in the 8th standard, and Mooppanar viewed his own life to date. He questioned, "Is this all there is to life? There has been no real happiness so far. Am I going to spend the rest of my life looking after the boy?" Dispassion set in, and soon he felt the need for a more meaningful life. It was then that he made the momentous decision to leave everything behind and come to Tiruvannamalai to serve Lord Siva by offering sambrani dhupam, a traditional temple incense, to the Lord.

Thus it was that, having made provisions for his family, he arrived in Tiruvannamalai around 1965. On his arrival he met the chief priest, Ramalinga Sivachariar. The priest told him that what he had in mind would neither provide a roof over his head nor food for his hungry stomach. Ramalinga Sivachariar offered him a job selling panchamritam, a sacred blend of five fruits, at the temple shop jointly run by him and another priest. He also encouraged Mooppanar to carry on with his Siva puja (his puja items, now stored in the premises of the Kubera Lingam, are worth not less than Rs. 30,000). For the next five years he ran the panchamritam shop. There was neither gain nor loss. This too, he felt, was not his destiny. The opportunity to do thirupani, temple renovation, came when the owner of Udupi Brindhavan Lodge offered him free board and lodging. Freed from the burden of earning a living, he embarked on his ashtalinga thirupani in earnest. In the beginning he was given encouragement and help by one Ramanananda Swami.

The 14-kilometer circumference of the holy Arunachala Hill is dotted with several small shrines, including the Ashtalingams (eight Siva icons). Neglected over the years, these shrines had fallen into a sad state of disrepair. Mooppanar felt it was his destiny to restore them to their original glory. With this in mind, he approached the temple authorities, as all these shrines belong to the temple. The officer asked, "How are you going to carry out your renovation?"

Mooppanar replied, "There will be no committee. Siva is the boss, and I am the servant." The officer told him to carry on, if he had that much faith in himself. The temple would not interfere as long as he did not seek financial assistance from them. Thus began the arduous task of restoration. He first started on a small scale, doing minor repairs.

Later, as more money came in, he undertook restoration on a grander scale--providing electricity, drilling bore wells and building tanks for water storage. Cottages for the devotees have been built at Yama Lingam, Nirudhi Lingam, Palani Aandavar Koil, Surya Lingam, Varuna Lingam, Vayu Lingam and Kubera Lingam.

Mooppanar told devotees, "I am not doing this out of desire. I am a sivanadiyar, slave of Siva, born a human and a Saivite, and doing Siva puja (worship rite) for more than 25 years. If I do not carry out the repairs and restoration, there is no point in having taken birth. I have come for that purpose."

Toward the end of 1998 he had to discontinue his elaborate Siva puja due to ill health--diabetes, high blood pressure and a heart attack--brought on by stress caused by opposition from certain quarters that stood to lose when Mooppanar went to court to repossess property that rightfully belonged to the Ashtalingams. Over the years he had successfully gone to court more than once to reclaim Ashtalingam property. At the time of his death, there was a court case pending for Isanya Lingam, the eighth Ashtalingam, where work is currently in progress. From memory, he could give the actual acreage of each shrine.

On the first of every Tamil calendar month, he would walk around the hill at night, performing abhishekam, ritual bathing, and puja at every shrine. In the early days, barrels of water and items for abhishekam would be carried in a push cart from shrine to shrine by a devoted band of followers. This went on for many years. Following his heart attack at the end of 1998, he was unable to walk around the hill.

Swamiji had great compassion for cows. Every morning, on the way to the temple, he would stop at the cowshed to feed the cows and calves tidbits that he would pick up from the hotel. Through his devotees, he had contributed a few animals to the temple. At his request one devotee built a permanent shelter for the animals. On a regular basis he would have agathi leaves bought for the cows, a treat for them. Only after darshan of Lord Annamalaiyar and Unnamulai Amman would he have breakfast himself.

A man of discipline and self-control, he never imposed himself on anyone. Though he had free lodging, whenever the hotel was full, he would sleep in the corridor. He never visited old people or young children without taking some food for them. He would buy loose flowers for the Lord on his way to the temple every morning.

When Mooppannar was hospitalized following a heart attack in early April, 1999, his devotees wanted to take him to Chennai for treatment. He refused. If he should die, it had to be in Tiruvannamalai. He was adamant about this and he breathed his last in this sanctified place.

He was well-read and could recount stories from the Puranas. His stories would be interspersed with plaintive refrains from songs in praise of Lord Siva. In the early days he had accompanied the chief priest when the latter conducted temple consecrations in various parts of Tamil Nadu. Mooppanar was assistant in charge of everything.

Mooppanar appointed five trustees to carry on the work after him. He also put some money in fixed deposit, the interest from which was to help to maintain the shrines he had restored.

A large crowd gathered for his funeral. Garlands were in abundance, so much so that the path to the cremation site was lined with them. No one would accept money for services rendered during the funeral. Even the hospital where he received treatment refused to accept any form of payment from the trustees. Though small in stature, he was a giant among men. He feared no one.

There are plans afoot to have a statue of Mooppanar erected in the grounds of Kubera Lingam. Palms together, he will be facing the hill. It is hoped that the trustees fulfill Mooppanar's dream by completing the restorations he dedicated his life to.

[By Rajeswari Nagalingam]

A Women’s Pilgrimage to Arunachala

“I was inspired to bring a small, intimate group of women to visit Arunachala for a spiritual pilgrimage in November 2008. The group consisted of seven women, who were all first-timers to India. Most of the women had a long-time deep desire to come to India for spiritual reasons, but were afraid to travel by themselves. They wished to travel with someone who had a deep connection with India and experience in making the journey.

The women came from a variety of backgrounds, yet had the desire to come to India in common. The group consisted of psychotherapists, yoga teachers, an acupuncturist, renowned author and teacher, body workers, a physical therapist, a banker and a housewife. We stayed at Sri Nannagaru Ashram, an ashram located down the road and within walking distance from the Ramana Ashram. (Although Sri Nannagaru never met Sri Ramana Maharshi in the form, he attributes his realisation to the direct grace of Arunachala-Ramana. Sri Nannagaru lives in his native place of Jinnuru, a small village in Andhra Pradesh and visits Arunachala several times a year, at which time darshan is regularly given to devotees and pilgrims). In my experience, Sri Nannagaru Ashram has the best energy of all the ashrams in Tiruvannamalai and has an extremely clean and peaceful atmosphere.

The intent of the pilgrimage was to bring the women to this holy place to experience its grace and magic. It was designed to be highly supportive for the women, but loosely structured so that the women could deepen in their own spiritual practice. During this two week pilgrimage, the first week was designed to escort the women to the various holy sites and teachers. The second week was designed for the women to follow their hearts and deepen their spiritual practices by revisiting the places where they had the most resonance. We had ample time together and also time for solitude. Each day began with breakfast together and an easy yoga practice.

The first week consisted of: visiting the Ramana Ashram and taking part in its daily pujas and nightly parayanas and meditation, visiting Arunachaleswarar Temple and participating in Pujas, attending satsang with various realized teachers at Arunachala, meditating in the Arunachala caves and performing full moon Pradakshina around Arunachala.

Virginia Lee is centre of lady group

One of the highlights was a temple 'tour' given by Meenakshi Ammal, publisher of Arunachala Grace Network. Meenakshi has given her life to learning about this holy mountain. She has researched, re-discovered and accumulated lost knowledge about the Temples and spiritual practice at Tiruvannamalai. The group was fortunate enough to spend a whole day with Meenakshi, learning much about little known temples and the deities associated therewith. She also arranged Vedic astrology readings and subsequent pujas for healing and empowerment at Adi Annamalai temple.

The women who travelled on this pilgrimage have had their lives deeply enriched as a result. Every one of them reports a radical shift in consciousness and deepening within themselves and their spiritual connection. Each had deep spiritual and psychological growth. I have no doubt, and it is my experience that visiting Arunachala will continue to deepen the lives of the women with grace as they return to their homes. Not only were the women enriched by Arunachala, but also Arunachala and a number of villagers benefited by our presence. As one of the intents of our visit was to be of service, some of the group members arranged to finance English tuition for the children (as without English the children have little opportunity to uplift their lives). The kids were also purchased bicycle in order to visit their visits to their English tutors. Others of the group made a ten year sponsorship commitment to send a child through school

Please stay posted for future articles about this pilgrimage, short articles written by the women themselves and their follow-up experiences. It is anticipated that the next Women’s Pilgrimage to Arunachala will be in November 2009. For more information or inquiries please contact me at bhakti.2u@juno.com.”

[Virginia Lee -- Ojai, California]

Dancing Baba

It is believed that at any one time rishis and saints inhabit spots at Arunachala. Sometimes these holy people are in disguise and living invisible lives as beggars, madcaps or nondescript people. In this respect saints like the one pictured below who was known as 'dancing baba' and the 'walking no talking swami,' breezes through our lives for an instant in ways that changes and inspires.

Dancing Baba was run over by a motorcycle on the girivalam roadway near the Hanuman Temple in the second week of December 2008. His body was preserved in a samadhi constructed at the place he met his end. It is reputed that in the morning of this death whilst taking 'chai' at a roadside tea stall, he informed several people that it was the day of his departure when he was ordained to leave the body.

Excerpt by V. Ganesan

"There is a person whom I call the walking no talking swami who goes round Arunachala whenever he happens to be there. It is a pure joy just to look at him. Alone he dances around the mountain day and night!

Once, I confronted him saying; "Swami, You are ever immersed in ananda. Why don't you give us the perennial ananda in which you are always soaked and saturated?" He burst out laughing. Then he gesticulated in a powerful way, pointing his hand towards Arunachala, as if to convey, "What else is there, except ananda? That which IS, is only ananda. Everyone is submerged only in it, as if under a deluge of water. Also who is to give ananda and to whom?" He laughed again.

Waves of ecstasy reigned and looking at him, instantly filled me with bliss! This experience of bliss was the direct blessing of the walking no talking swami. And it happened without a word, sans explanations or discussions."

Sastrigal Mama (Sri Venkateswara Sarma)

I recently read this narrative about a famous astrologer who was also a devotee of Ramana Maharshi, and find it very interesting so am herein posting it below:

"Sri Venkateswara Sarma (Sastrigal Mama) was an exceptional and astounding astrologer. From childhood he exhibited a rare genius in this field. While still very young, his extraordinary intelligence enabled him to master the most abstruse and difficult branch of astrology. All, including his guru, declared him as the wisest student.

Prasna is an astrological science based on a perfect fruition between mathematics and intuition. With just some meagre information from the questioner, which includes only the first word of the question, a Prasna astrologer can, within seconds, draw up mentally a horoscope. This requires great mathematical precision and perfection. Having drawn the horoscope within his mind, and in a flash also having studied it, the astrologer will have to wait, prayerfully. Then, from the depths of his inner intuition words gush forth, forming the astrological predictions for the questioner. As this Prasna process is not merely based on mathematical horoscopes, it culminates in intuitional revelation, and the predictions are said to be amazingly accurate and correct to the minutest detail. Sri Sastrigal Mama was highly proficient in this system of astrology.

He once described it to me by citing this example: One day a merchant came to his house while he was engaged offering worship in his puja room. His wife informed him that one Nagappa Chettiar was waiting on the verandah and that he seemed worried about some urgent matter. Not willing to interrupt his worship, and by merely listening to the name and the few details given by his wife, Sri Sastrigal Mama, within a minute, began giving the following prediction:

"Tell Nagappa Chettiar that he has come to inquire about his lost, costly diamond ring. He suspects his servant. Assure him that no one has stolen it. In his garden, near the well, there are two rows of plantain trees. On one side there are only two trees; on the other there is a cluster of trees. Let him search under the two trees and the diamond ring will be found there. While he was cleaning his clothes on the washing stone the ring slipped off his finger and fell to the ground."

Nagappa Chettiar returned home and found the ring exactly where Sri Sastrigal Mama had said, and because of this and similar astounding predictions Sri Sastrigal Mama became quite famous. He also became convinced that the Prasna branch of astrology was the most perfect science.

At the height of his career he heard about Sri Ramana Maharshi. When he first saw Sri Bhagavan's picture he was immediately captivated and traveled to Arunachala to see the Sage. He climbed up to Skandashram, where Bhagavan then resided. On the very first look that the Maharshi gave him, Sri Sastrigal Mama became his slave. He had a strong desire to stay with the Maharshi permanently, renouncing everything he held dear. Yet, there was still his lifelong attraction to the science of astrology. He felt distracted by it and did not know how to proceed.

One day, gathering courage, he approached Sri Maharshi in all humility and said, "Bhagavan, is not astrology the best and most accurate of all sciences?"

In silence Bhagavan looked at him deeply for some time. Then, slowly but firmly, he replied: "The science of the Self is superior to all other sciences."

It was the peak period in Sri Sastrigal Mama's life. For every prediction he was richly rewarded and was consequently acquiring immense wealth. Nevertheless, the words from the Master convinced him immediately to renounce his lucrative profession and pursue the science of the Self. His wife too fully supported him in this decision. The remainder of their life they lived in utter poverty at the holy feet of the Sat-Guru, under the protective shade of the Sacred Mountain, Arunachala."

[By V. Ganesan]

Brahma Teertham

New Year in Tamil Nadu is celebrated on April 14th, however there has recently been a push by the political classes to switch the New Year to coincide with Pongal Harvest Festival on January 14th, be that as it may, Tamil Nadu also rather finely celebrates New Year on January 1st. Government run Temples in Tiruvannamalai stayed opened throughout the day in order to accommodate the vast crowd of devotees and pilgrims who wished to take darshan on the auspicious first day of the year.

I visited Arunachaleswarar Temple on January 1st to receive a nice blessing at Siva Sannidhi. However things didn't exactly go according to plan as even though I purchased a Rs.20/- darshan voucher, the crowds were endless and I had to wait for over two hours behind uncomfortable barricades before being able to enter the Sannidhi for darshan. I wish I could say that the two hour wait was fun -- it wasn't -- it was hot and squashed and I became increasingly cross and bad-tempered. Watch out people -- especially queue jumpers -- I'm not in the mood! The whole wait was a war of attrition. But finally it was over and I hobbled limply to the prasad stand to buy myself some quick energy sugar snacks.

On feeling more energetic I made my way to the Brahma Theertham, the tank located in the Fourth Prakaram of Arunachaleswarar Temple. For the last several years both Temple Tank gates, (Brahma Theertham and Sivagangai Theertham) are locked, thus making them inaccessible to visitors. But on New Years Day this year, the gates of the Tank were unlocked and welcoming. So, just like old times, I sat on the edge of the Tank steps with my feet in the water, feeding the fishes with my purchase from the prasad shop.

It was so nice to see people sitting at the edge of the tank, relaxing, enjoying and talking. I didn't miss the opportunity to take some photographs of Brahma Theertham as who knows when the tank will be open again like this.

Its regarded as very auspicious to take a bath in a holy Temple Tank and whilst sitting at the Tank, noticed lots of pilgrims come to the water for a quick splash about.

From Then to Now

Good Luck and Best Wishes in 2009

Click on photograph to enlarge

To welcome all visitors and readers to Arunachala Grace in 2009, I am posting photographs of Arunachaleswarar Temple; taken from a distance in 1949 and the second photograph was taken December 11, 2008 -- the morning of Bharani Deepam.

Click on photograph to enlarge

Lots to Chat About

Hope everybody is having a wonderful holiday through Christmas and the New Year - the kids at Tiruvannamalai certainly are with lots of days off from School over Christmas.

Hope to be posting more regularly on Arunachala Grace very shortly and still have some very special Deepam photographs to post.

Also the current issue of Arunachala Grace News will soon be going out direct to the inbox of all newsletter subscribers. The combination of bad health, visit of a welcomed friend, Deepam, Christmas, and of course the very distracting presence of my Guruji at Tiruvannamalai over the holidays are all responsible for the long delay since the last Arunachala Grace News.

Winding Down

Last night (Saturday, December 20th) the Deepam Flame was still alight on top of Arunachala but I think thats probably the end of it for this year and we will now have to wait until December 1st, 2009 for the next Bharani Deepam and all attendant festivities.

On my way home yesterday afternoon through town on a desperate search for a cup of tea, I met up with a wagon being hauled to the Big Temple which was carrying the levers used with the Maha Radham chariot. The photograph gives a good idea of the size and weight of the huge levers.

I took the below photograph also whilst on North Sannidhi Street (in front of the Big Temple) of a deserted ride named "Break Dance" located at the Temple entranceway and with a rather incongruous 'Statue of Liberty' by the side of the ride.

However I still have photographs which I hope to be posting on Arunachala Grace of later Festival functions, so keep checking back.

Pavala Kundru History

On my way from Tiruvannamalai Bus Stand to Ramana Nagar whilst going through the business end of town, I took the below photograph of one of my favourite Tiruvannamalai Temples, Pavala Kundru (i.e. Jewel of the Hill). This revered Temple has a fascinating history which starts with the legend of Goddess Parvati and her time on the Hill whilst performing tapas. In recent times Pavala Kundru is associated with Ramana Maharshi’s stay at the Temple. Currently there is a dispute underway regarding construction on the adjacent Coral Hill. But probably the most charming recent assocation of the Temple is its colony of beautiful Langur Monkeys.

View from Town

History of Pavala Kundru

“In 1790 Tippu Sultan captured Tiruvannamalai over-riding the Treaty of Mangalore (1784 A.D.) in which he and the English agreed to mutual restoration of conquests and exchange of prisoners. Tippu Sultan attacked Thiagadurga Fort (30 miles south of Tiruvannamalai). The whole population of the surrounding region took refuge in this fort.

Activated by the news from Thiagadurga and apprehending attack, the inhabitants of Tiruvannamalai collected arms and men to defend themselves till British reinforcements arrived. When Tippu Sultan attacked Tiruvannamalai, its inhabitants put up a brave resistance but were compelled to surrender in the end. Tippu Sultan, it is said, occupied the hillock of Pavalakkunru after destroying the small shrine that was there. His solders, it seems, were cruel to the people of the town but strangely the Temple of Sri Arunachala was left untouched, barring a single cannon shot that was fired at it. The missile seems to have hit a part of the northern wall causing minimal damage. After camping there for some weeks, Tippu Sultan and his army left Tiruvannamalai.

Location of Temple on a Arunachala Hillock

A gun belonging to Tippu Sultan was found buried near the hillock where he had camped. It was taken and placed in a museum in Madras. Ramana Maharshi said that whatever Temple might have existed on or about Pavalakkunru seemed to have disappeared probably on account of Tippu Sultan’s invasion. The present Temple was probably built only a hundred and fifty years ago.”

Temple Gods Girivalam

Click on photographs to enlarge


During each Deepam Festival the God statues from Adi Annamalai Temple join with those of Arunachaleswara Temple to perform girivalam of Arunachala. This year Bharani Deepam was on December 11th and following tradition, the night after Deepam around 11 p.m. on the 12th December, the statues of Shiva-Parvati, Parvati and Shakti from Adi Annamalai were taken to Arunachaleswara Temple where they spent the night.

The next morning on the 13th the three statues from Adiannamalai seated on pandals pulled by tractors, led the three statues from the Big Temple; Arunachaleswara-Unnamalai, Parvati and Shakti-Durga -- and together the statues seated on six separate pandals performed girivalam of Arunachala Hill.

The below is of Shiva-Parvati from Adi Annamalai Temple, which is leading the procession around the Hill.

The statue of the Goddess.

The below pandal carries Arunachaleswara-Unnamalai of the Big Temple. Throughout the girivalam the pandals stop whenever devotees wish to make an offering to the Gods.

Deepam is the only time in the year that statues from both major Temples (Adi Annamalai and Arunachaleswara) perform girivalam together and visit devotees living throughout the area. The only other time Arunachaleswara-Unnamalai perform girivalam is during the Tiruvoodal Festival celebrated at Pongal (Tamil harvest festival in January).

More Maha Radham Photographs

Click on all photographs to enlarge


Further to my posting on December 8th of the Big Car Festival which is part of the annual Deepam Festival, I am posting below more photographs of that day.

The ladies in the next photograph are actually holding on to chains attached to the Big Car and pulling it along -- which is its only means of propulsion.

In the below young lads jump on wooden levers jammed under the gigantic car wheels to give it a 'jump start' whenever it gets stuck.

The car started moving at 2 p.m. around the perimeter of the 26 acre Arunachaleswara Temple compound and by the time it had completed its circumbulation, night had fallen.

This year for the very first time I participated in the pulling of the chariot for most of the length of Thiruvoodal Street (which is famous during Pongal for a celebratory drama -- Thiruvoodal Festival -- between Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati). It was an amazing and thrilling experience.

Swami Nithyananda Birth Star Celebrations

Swami Nithyananda will be visiting Tiruvannamalai on December 21, 2008 -- to participate in celebrations of his 32nd Birth Star.

The public celebrations include a procession at 9.00 a.m. originating at the Arunachaleswara Temple. The procession will be carrying statues of the God and Goddess, Anandeswara and Anandeswari on a chariot which will end at Nithyanandapuri -- Swami's Ashram located near Adi Annamalai on the Girivalam Roadway.

Food will be offered to all at that ashram at 1.00 p.m.

At the same venue at 6.00 p.m. Swami Nithyananda will give a discourse in Tamil which is anticipated to last 1 1/2 hours.

Bharani Deepam 2008

Click on all photographs to enlarge

At about 4:30 am on the day of Bharani Deepam, which this year fell on December 11th, this is how the day started:

Early morning at Temple

The chief priest has just finished a simple ritual called Bharani Deepam and now ceremoniously waves a huge camphor flame in the direction of nearby Arunachala mountain. Although he is chanting Sanskrit slokas, he cannot be heard amidst the deafening furor of devotion that surrounds him. Finally, he touches the flame he is holding to the wicks of five huge, earthen, ghee-filled pots, representing the sacred elements earth, air, fire, water and ether. As these five flames loom up with red-yellow light, the famous, one-day, South Indian festival of Krittika Deepam officially begins.

The five pots

The one flame

A flame taken from the five earthen pots that were lit just after the early morning temple ceremony of Bharani Deepam is kept burning in the Temple throughout the day as a symbol of the merging of manifestation back into God, the one source of all. This single flame is referred to as the Bharani Deepam. At 10:00 in the morning, a select group of fishermen are blessed by the temple priest with a small ceremony. At this time, amidst ringing bells and temple music, the priest gives the fishermen a lamp that has been lit from the Bharani Deepam in the Temple. This lamp, also called Bharani Deepam, will be taken by the fishermen to the top of the mountain.

Local fishermen are traditionally given the privilege of carrying the Bharani Deepam up the mountain and lighting the Krittika Deepam in the evening, because, according to a popular myth, Parvati (the wife of Lord Siva) was born in a fishing village.

Devotees climbing the hill

Significance

"There is immense significance in this first Krittika Deepam ceremony called Bharani Deepam. At this time, the universal Lord manifests as the five elements, which will later fully merge to become one when the Krittika Deepam flame is lit in the evening. From one to many and many to one. This is the whole essence of Saivism and the meaning of Krittika Deepam."

All across India, millions of bonfires are lit on hills and in temples on Krittika Deepam. But nowhere is this festival celebrated like it is at Tiruvannamalai. Here it is unique.

Heightened security this year on Hill

Krittika Deepam occurs annually in the lunar month of Kartika, which occurs in November/December, on the last day of the 10-day festival called Brahmotsavam. It is on this auspicious day that, at precisely 6:00 in the evening, a sacred fire is lit on top of the 2,668 foot Arunachala mountain to symbolize the merging of all manifest existence back into the one source of all things. It is said that those who witness this sacred ceremony personally receive the blessings of Siva and Parvati. All of the traditional temple rituals that are performed during Brahmotsavam create a spiritual fervency that culminate with great power on Krittika Deepam as a grand congregation of devotees, holy men, officials, police personnel and media squeeze together, shoulder to shoulder, to witness the festival's magnificent consummation.

View of Temple and town from hill

Preparations for this holy day begin one month in advance with the local administration, revenue department, police and temple authorities. Since early morning, temple staff and volunteers have been carrying five-gallon containers of ghee and large pots of thick, braided cloth wicks to the top of Arunachala mountain. Once the mountaintop flame has been lit, it must be kept burning for ten days, which requires vast quantities of wick and clarified butter.

Deepam pot positioned on top of Hill


Devotees climbing on the hill,
miscreants lighting fires for luck (a local superstition)



Pot waiting to be lit -
moon in left corner background

As the day wanes into dusk and night begins to darken the sky, pilgrims stand or sit, motionless with anticipation, at the base of Arunachala mountain, preparing to worship God Siva as an infinite pillar of light.

By 5:00 in the evening, the area surrounding the Temple flagpole, as well as the adjoining terrace, is packed. People are grabbing seats to observe the dramatic arrival of five exquisitely decorated palanquins, carrying the Hindu Gods Vinayaka, Subramanya, Siva, Amba and Chandikeshwara. The devotees are constantly moving and adjusting their positions to get a better view and to make way for still more people pouring in.

Suddenly, the crowd's attention shifts to the Temple entrance from behind the flag pole. Some devotees jump up to get a better view. The first palanquin arrives with a dramatic flair. It's the Vinayaka Deity, a form of Lord Ganesha. Exquisitely bedecked with a variety of flowers artistically arranged, this relatively small Deity seems magically large in its luxurious setting. More than eight people are carrying the heavy wooden palanquin. They dance with graceful dignity to the accompaniment of temple music, devotional singing and Sanskrit prayers. Soon enough, they reach their designated position in front of the flag pole and come to a stop.

In a few minutes, the next palanquin arrives “Subramanya”. It's a little bigger. Unmindful of its weight, those who are carrying this celestial cargo somehow manage to dance with abandon, rocking the Deity joyously.

Now another palanquin is arriving, rocking to and fro. "Swami, Swami," the crowd shouts. Here, "Swami" is referring to Siva. Amba (Goddess Parvati) is right behind, followed by Chandikeshwara.

Within about 30 minutes, five palanquins have arrived in all their spiritual pageantry.

Later the five murtis gathered in the Temple compound

Finally, the appointed moment arrives. Against the backdrop of a sunset sky, crowned with the rising star of Kartika, thundering firecrackers, ringing Temple bells and a frenzy of rhythmic chanting merge to create a cacophony of chaotic splendor. Camphor is lit in a cauldron by the Temple flag pole, signaling priests on top of the mountain to light their flame.

Deepam on top of Arunachala Hill

The timing is perfectly synchronized

The air is charged as the overpowering sight of light, signifying Siva in the form of Jyoti (divine light), merges with Parvati to become Siva/Sakti. Now, finally, Ardhanarishvara is brought out of the Temple with great ceremonial fanfare. This is the only day of the year that this particular Deity is ever moved. It is most auspicious.

To learn more about the 'Legend of Ardhanarishvara' at Arunachala go to this link here.

When that flame is seen by the thousands of devotees below, the entire countryside explodes with flashing luminescence. Bonfires, lamps, neon lights and fireworks light the night like day as a surging, thronging, emotionally charged mass of devotees chant, "Arunachala Siva," "Annamalai” and "Annamalai Harohara”. The sight of the Krittika Deepam is magical. It brings an inexplicable joy. People are ecstatic, mesmerized by the light.

The Temple is closed for a day after Krittika Deepam, because it is believed that, when Arunachala manifested Himself in the Deepam, He temporarily shifted His abode from the temple to the hilltop.

Long-time pilgrims assert that, even years later, the very thought of an otherworldly moment like this recreates it, just as if it is happening fresh and new.

[Edited extract from ‘Fire on the Mountain’]

Photographs on their way

Hope to be posting lots of amazing Deepam photographs over the next few days -- so keep checking back to view photos which will include the Bharani function at Arunachaleswara Temple and the actual lighting of the Deepam Flame on top of Arunachala Hill.

Deepam Lighting

I am below reproducing below an interesting newspaper report on the lighting of the 2008 Deepam at Tiruvannamalai.

“With the setting sun painting a dramatic red hue in the sky and providing a backdrop and 30 Lakh devotees loudly chanting 'Om Namah Shivaya', the maha Karthigai Deepam' was lit on top of the Tiruvannamalai hill on Thursday evening to mark the Karthigai festival.

Believed to be one of the oldest rituals in the world, the Maha Karthigai Deepam is the first to be lit atop the hill in a five feet high cauldron. It is only after the lamp is lit here that temples and people across Tamil Nadu light lamps on Karthigai festival.

This time too the 'Deepam' was lit to the joy of lakhs of devotees who gathered in the temple and around the hill but amidst unprecedented security arrangements. Lakhs of devotees climbed up the hill to catch a glimpse of the light. The flame is said to be visible for over 10 kms around Tiruvannamalai.

The cauldron is a big brass vessel designed in the form of a lamp and placed on top of the hill. It is filled with ghee and butter donated by devotees. An enormously thick wick made of loosely twisted woven fibres is immersed into the vessel and one end of the wick is drawn out. The lamp is lit around 6 pm when the full moon emerges from the east and appears on the horizon in the month of Karthigai. At the same time, in the temple, the idol of 'Ardhanarishvara' is brought out in a ceremonial manner.

‘First idols of Lord Ganesha, Muruga, Arunachaleshwara and Unnamulai are brought in procession and kept inside the 16 pillared Mandapam. Then exactly at 6 pm, Ardhanarishvara is brought out and at the same time, the lamp is lit on top of the hill. A signal using a lamp is shown from the temple to synchronise the timing. Early in the morning the 'Bharani' Deepam named after a star was lit,’ said a temple official.

Cutting across all religions, devotees make a beeline for the hill and ensure that the festival is celebrated with fervour. ‘Right from donation of ghee to making fireworks for the festival, people of all religions are involved. The lamp atop the hill also signifies one religion and one god,’ said the official.

Elaborate security arrangements were also made to prevent any untoward incident. According to a senior police official, 7,500 policemen including three deputy inspector generals of police, six superintendents of police, commando teams and 200 special task force personnel were deployed. People who were climbing the hill were prevented from carrying camphor or matchbox. Close circuit television cameras were also placed around the temple.”

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Sadly a police head constable, who was posted on duty at Tiruvannamalai (along the Girivalam roadway) during the just concluded Karthigai Deepam festival died reportedly of stress on Friday morning. It is not known whether the head constable named Chandran, who was attached to the Crime Branch at Tiruthani Police Station, had any previous health complications.

He along with some 100 police personnel from the Tiruvallur district were posted for security duty at Tiruvannamalai since 9 am on Thursday. Chandran’s collegues said lack of sleep, rest and timely food had apparently caused his death. His colleagues said when Chandran was about to board the bus to return to his hometown they had heard him complaining of pain and then he swooned. He was taken to a government hospital where he was declared “brought dead.”

In another incident, a devotee who was carrying a ghee pot reportedly died of a heart attack whilst climbing Arunachala Hill on Thursday. The person was identified as a 25 year old man hailing from Perungappur Village, Villupuram District.