Goddess Gowri Ruthatcha Malai

In an earlier posting I talked about Ramesh, a jewellery maker here in Tiruvannamalai, who makes ornaments for Temple Gods fashioned in both precious metals and gemstones, and also in metal amalgamates.






Most of the jewels in major Temples are donations from devotees over the previous several hundred years. In the case of Arunachaleswarar Temple much of the jewellery is of immense age and value.





However the collection of jewellery at Arunachaleswarar Temple is regularly added to by donation from interested devotees.

The below photographs are of one of the most recent jewellery donations to Arunachaleswarar Temple which is of a gold framed medallion embedded with representations of the Gods; Ganesha, Shiva and Parvati along with a rudraraksha golden malai. The jewellery was donated by a wealthy industrialist from Salem. And local newspaper have reported that the value of the piece to be over Rs. 20 Lakhs.

Poornima 2012 Calendar

Right Click on image for enlargement.


For those who do not read Tamil, the timetable is sequential, starting with January at the top of the list, and running through to December at the bottom of the list.

The last column of the image indicates the date of that month's girivalam.

Ramana Nagar Post Office

I visited the post office in Ramana Nagar recently to mail some packets of the 2011 Deepam Prasad to various spots around the globe.

It was only while in the post office, and the person next to me remarked on the packages, that I noticed that each of the six covers of prasad where addressed to six different countries: USA, Canada, UK, Germany, Malaysia and Australia. On each of the packages I had boldly written the words "Temple Prasad" which I hoped would ensure a good passage via customs.

During my first experience of Arunachala in 1994, I recall how the area was rustic and charmingly undeveloped. At that time it was necessary to go into the town of Tiruvannamalai from Ramana Nagar even to make an STD telephone call. Also at that time there were no supermarkets, Kashmir Fancy Shops or modern shops in the area around the major Ashrams. Without an introduction or a stroke of good luck, it was virtually impossible to even find suitable rental accommodation.

During that first experience of Arunachala I stayed at the then undeveloped Sri Seshadri Ashram which only had a limited number of accommodation rooms. The time was full moon, but the girivalam roadway only had a sparse number of pilgrims occupied in performing girivalam.

It seemed so strange that in a country such as India, where pilgrimage is a national delight, that Arunachala, written about since antiquity and renowned by poets, saints and sages since the beginning of time, could only attract a small number of pilgrims even during the time of Poornima (full moon). And then I realised that the relative obscurity was Arunachala's wish, and that at the right time, the greatest secret in the world -- the Glory of Arunachala -- would manifest itself.

So many years later, and after much change, here I was in the Ramana Nagar Post Office with Arunachala Deepam Prasad (Prasad taken from the very cauldron that burned on the hill during the 2011 Festival) packaged and addressed to six different places in the world. And at that moment I realised that the Hill's relative obscurity was over and that Arunachala was reaching out in its glorious expression to all corners of the world.







Many years ago a devotee of the then Shankaracharya Sri Chandrasekhara of Kanchipuram, who is the Sage mentioned in Paul Brunton's book, "In Search of Secret India," told me that the Shankaracharya had remarked that Arunachala would become the busiest and most famous spiritual site in all of India. And that the crowds that would visit would be unimaginable in size.






This year a TV series started in Andhra Pradesh based on the life of Sri Ramana Maharshi and his experiences at Arunachala. As a result of that ongoing series, a huge influx of Andhra devotees are coming to Arunachala to perform girivalam and visit the Arunachaleswarar Temple. And so it goes . . .






During monthly Poornima over 100,000 pilgrims visit to perform girivalam of Arunachala. And this is just the beginning.







The world's greatest secret i.e. the Glory of Arunachala has been exposed and from now on the crowds and interest in this great spiritual lodestone will only increase.







The streets around the Ramana Nagar post office, still seem sleepy and part of a bygone age. But what will be able to resist the expansion of the great heart and glory of the Hill?

And as to the future, read below a fascinating narrative recorded by Sri Ramana Maharshi in [Day by Day with Bhagavan Pages 116-117]:

“In those days these Rajas used to fortify their hills and live there. See Ginjee for instance. The Ginjee fort was built on three hills. They are all in ruins. Padaiveedu nearby in this District was once a great city. Hampi was a great city and the capital of an Empire. It is said that the town was built on the model of a Sri Chakra and that there has been some slight mistake somewhere, and that is why, though the Empire flourished well for a time, it did not endure but failed.

There is a rumour that a prophecy made by Vidyaranya, earlier a Dewan of Hampi Empire and later a Shankaracharya, has declared that when again a descendant of that Empire or a successor of his in the Mutt builds a city on the model of Sri Chakra, a great Empire will again flourish with that city as capital.

Some people have even thought that the present Shankaracharya (note: the now deceased Sri Chandrasekhara Saraswati) might be the person for such destiny. Our Naina used to feel that as this town is by nature itself built on Sri Chakra model, by the Gods themselves, if only we could build houses all round the Hill and make a city of it, this will become the capital of a big Empire. He used to be always thinking and speaking of swaraj (note: self-governance or home rule i.e. from the British) dreaming and planning for it and saying what he would do when swaraj is attained. People say there was a town in the old, old days somewhere here to the South of the Hill. Who knows that will happen hereafter? Did we imagine that all these houses now here were going to be built?”

Temple Morning

I had a programme to meet with one of the Brahmin priests at the Arunachaleswarar Temple to discuss an upcoming puja, and while at the Temple decided to have a walk about in the outer prakarams.

While there, I set out to find the Adi Mudi shrine, which I had read about on several occasions. Well I finally found it, and will later post more information about the Adi Mudi, which is a unique depiction of Arunachala with Shiva/Parvati.








The silent and deserted outer prakarams of the Temple are beautiful and fascinating, with their unique shrines, gardens, walkways and lovely gokulam, with its cows and calves lying peacefully in the shade.


























While at the Temple I decided to check whether Rukku the Temple elephant had come back from holiday -- she has -- and when I saw her, thought she seemed to be in a grouchy mood -- she certainly made some cross noises to a visiting pilgrim -- maybe she remembers something about him!

I've heard that several animal organisations are working to liberate animals from working in circuses and Temples -- and as far as I'm concerned that day can't come too soon. Poor Rukku, such a sad life -- away from the forests, her own kind, and forced to stand to attention up to 10 hours a day in a single spot, begging on behalf of her trainer by taking coins from pilgrims in exchange for putting her trunk on their heads.

Will write more about Rukku soon, but in the meantime, there is one species of animal that has adapted to modern times and has made the Temple very much their home, whilst maintaining a very nice independence. And that species is the Bonnet Macaque monkey. Cheeky, fearless little souls!











It was that sort of perfect morning. Toasty with a very slight cooling breeze, the Temple Compound deserted, with an underlining harmony and delight in the air. Two gents were sitting in front of a stone, writing the stone's inscription into their notebooks. I talked with them for a few moments, and delighted in their joy with their morning's fun -- and their pleasure in learning more about the history carved on the 200 year old stone.







On such a day, its really easy to understand why this Temple is regarded as the living heart of the town.

The Walled Garden of Truth

We tried reasoning
our way to Him:
it did not work;
but the moment we gave up,
no obstacle remained.

He introduced himself to us
out of kindness: how else
could we have known him?
Reason took us as far as the door;
but it was his presence that let us in.

But how will you ever known him,
as long as you are unable
to know yourself?

Once one is one,
no more, no less:
error begins with duality;
unity knows no error.

The road your self must journey on
lies in polishing the heart.
It is not by rebellion and discord
that the heart’s mirror is polished free
of the rust of hypocrisy and unbelief:
your mirror is polished by your certitude –
by the unalloyed purity of your faith.

Break free
from your chains you have forged about yourself,
for you will be free when you are free of clay.
The body is dark – the heart is shining bright;
the body is mere compost – the heart a blooming garden.

[Hakim Sanai]

Babavali Dargah

A favourite place of mine and one curiously undiscovered by most visitors is a large Moslem burial ground located in the middle of Bavajai Nagar contains the dargahs of two Moslem saints. Most Muslims in India belong to the Sunni school, and burial sites for revered religious figures are known as dargahs (or durgahs).

In response to my previous posting and the many enquiries as to the exact location of the burial ground, I am including photographs and directions in this narrative which will help interested visitors locate the compound.

Directions are thus. Leave the front gate of Ramana Ashram (using Ashram as a central point) and take a left. Proceed down Chengam Road towards town for about 200 yards until reaching a fork in the road – take the right side and proceed onwards passed the petrol bunks.




Petrol bunk, right and towards Ashrams.
We go left and towards town


There is never a quiet time on
Tiruvannamalai roads nowadays



Turning for Subramanian Theatre
coming up on left side


A hundred yards after the petrol bunk on the left side there is the Subramanian theatre, just after the theatre is an orange facility.



Orange painted facility


Across the road from the facility is a tiny lane. Go down the lane.



Tiny lane


30 yards on the right side is the Muttu Karimariamman Temple.



Small Muttu Karimariamman Kovil


Just after the Temple on the left side is a high white wall (it is in front of the big building in the left background of this photograph). In the middle of the wall is a large closed metal gateway. Next to the gateway, is a small opening with bars. The opening will be unlocked, push to enter.



To enter compound use doorway left side,
front of big building at left background

You are now inside the very large 4-5 acre burial ground. There will be a few local villagers inside the compound making bamboo leaf rice winnowing baskets. You don’t need to speak with them to ask permission to be inside the compound, they too are visitors and guests.

Surprising to be in such a large open place
in middle of busy Bavajai Nagar


The whole grounds empty
except for about 4-5 shrines


Quiet, peaceful compound





The second structure on the left side is the dargah of Mahan Aharajath Jaguhthum Sha Valiullha. He was born in Tirupattur as Sayed Abdullah Basha. His guru gave him a new name and sent him to Tiruvannamalai with the instructions to meditate at Babavali Dargah at the grave of his own Guru, Syed Munivar Sha, who died over 400 years previously.




Dargah of Mahan Sarat


Mahan Aharajath lived to about 75 years of age and died over 100 years ago. He instructed his followers that if he died away from Arunachala, that his body be brought back to this place. In this, the saint was prescient, as he was to die in Chennai, and from there his body was brought back to Tiruvannamalai and now rests in this Dargah.






The custodian Sardhar Bai at the Dargah relates that Ramana Maharshi was known to have spent time in meditation at the burial ground. Subsequently many of his devotees visited the burial ground, which later was to gain the reputation of being a place of mystical powers.



Dargah of Mahan Sarat


Thus far the only known narrative of this place is a short extract taken from the book In Days of Great Peace by Mouni Sadhu.


“One day, a friend invited me to attend worship in the mosque of Tiruvannamalai. I went and was told the strange story of a North Indian Mohammedan saint, generally called Haji here. A few days before his death he said to his pupils:

When I leave my physical form, my Spirit will remain with you. Let everyone, without any difference of creed and social status, come to my grave whenever he may be in need of help. Let him express his need or wish as clearly as he would, were he facing my present visible form. I shall certainly hear his entreat and shall transmit it to the Most High, who will fulfil it for the sake of His servant

Dargah of Sayed Munivar Sha


For me, the tomb of the Mohammedan saint proved to be one of these magnetic spots. in a few moments, after having excluded the visible words from my consciousness, I became aware of the Hajis presence. It was like that of a sweet and extremely kind person asking me what were my needs and wishes and urging me to express them frankly without any shyness or reservation .....

During the next weeks I returned several times to this silent shrine, having some entangled and difficult problems to solve. One of them seemed utterly hopeless, for its solution from the physical point of view was impossible. And yet, within three days after my last visit and request for the Hajis help, a happy and unexpected solution came of itself without intervention on my part.”

The Five Nandis

Right Click to view photo enlargements

During Mattu Pongal at Arunachaleswarar Temple, apart from other celebrations, five Nandis inside the Temple are lavishly decorated with garlands and foodstuff.






The five Nandis are; Pradosha Nandi, in the Moolastanam, Ratha Vilaku Nandi in the Second Prakaram, Kodi Kampathu Nandi in the Third Prakaram, Chinna Nandi in the fourth prakaram and the Periyar Nandi that stands in front of the Vallala Gopuram in the Fifth Prakaram.

Pongal Time of Sunny Celebrations

Pongal was originally a Festival for the farming community but nowadays it is celebrated by all. It follows the solar calendar and is celebrated on the same days each year. Pongal has astronomical significance: it marks the auspicious beginning of Uttarayana, the Sun's movement northward for a six month period and all important events are scheduled during this 6-month period. Four festivals are celebrated at Tiruvannamalai (and throughout Tamil Nadu) for four consecutive days during the Pongal Festival. 'Bhogi' on January 13th, 'Pongal' on January 14th, 'Maattuppongal' on January 15th, and 'Thiruvalluvar Day' on Jan 16.

On Bhogi old clothes and materials are thrown away and set on fire, marking the beginning of a new life. The second day, the Pongal day, is celebrated by boiling fresh milk early in the morning and allowing it to boil over the vessel - a tradition that is the literal translation for Pongal. People also prepare savouries and sweets, visit each other's homes, and exchange greetings. The third day, Mattu Pongal, is meant to offer thanks to the cows and buffaloes, as they are used to plough the lands. On the last day, Kanum Pongal, people go out to picnic.







In Hindu Temples; bells, drums, clarinets and conch shells herald the joyous occasion of Pongal. To symbolize a bountiful harvest, rice is cooked in new pots until it boils over. Some rituals performed in Temples include the preparation of rice, chanting of prayers and offering of; vegetables, sugar cane and spices to the Gods. Devotees then consume the offerings to exonerate themselves of past sins. Pongal signals the end of the traditional farming season, giving farmers a break from their monotonous routine. Farmers also perform puja to some crops, signaling the end of the traditional farming season.

I’ve made many postings about Pongal on Arunachala Grace, and to find out more about this wonderful Festival go to this link here and here.

Sufi Saint Syedini Bibi

The population demographics of Tiruvannamalai and its surrounds is over 30% non Hindu. Of this percentage a large number of Muslims have been living in the area for many generations. It is known (Tiruvannamalai was under Muslim rule several times in its history) that there are a number of powerful sacred burial sites dedicated to Muslim saints in Tiruvannamalai, one of the most famous being that of the woman saint, Syedini Bibi.




Darghar in the background
of busy Car Street


In 1880 the Darghar in Car Street was built by the Nawab of the time in honour of the great woman Sufi Saint. Although this burial site faces noisy Car Street, it is renowned for its powerful and peaceful vibrations. It is believed that both Sri Seshadri Swamigal and Sri Ramana Maharshi often sat in meditation at this place, and in more contemporary times the tomb was frequently favoured by Sri Yogi Ramsuratkumar.




Darghar of Saint Syedini Bibi


Syedini Bibi came from the middle east in the early nineteenth century. Like many Sufis before her she landed at Nagore on the south-east coast. From there she travelled inland a few hundred kilometers to Arunachala where she settled for the rest of her life.





Little is known about the life of this saint, however there are two powerful famous stories connected with her tomb.

One such story is that the Tiruvannamalai authorities decided to demolish the burial grounds (where Syedini Bibi was buried), in order to widen the road to accommodate the Maharadham (Big Car Chariot) during the Deepam Festival.


Alley leading to Car Street


In response to this proposal, many protested against disturbing the Saint’s grave, and the authorities postponed the demolition. The myth that was handed down claims that during the Deepam Festival, as the gigantic wooden Chariot passed, one of its huge wheels accidentally knocked the side of Bibi’s tomb and the temple cart immediately burst into flames.



Darghar of Woman Saint Sydedini Bibi


Another story connected with this tomb is that the British (who were then rulers in India) planned to widen Car Street, in order to construct a roadway from Bangalore to Pondicherry via Tiruvannamalai. Construction of the road commenced and many tombs and graves were destroyed but when the builders reached the site of the Sufi Saint, blood poured from the grave, and onlookers reported hearing a loud voice commanding that the tomb be not disturbed.

When British Government officials came later to investigate what had occurred, legend has it that again a loud voice was heard commanding that the tomb not be disturbed. As a consequence the development of the highway was cancelled. This extraordinary circumstance attracted many British people to the tomb, which also resulted in visits of many Muslims and inspired a local Muslim family to act as guardians at the tomb. Currently the person in charge of maintaining the tomb is the sixth generation of the original family of custodians.

Arudra Darshan

Arudra Darshan, also known as Thiruvathira festival, is another occasion celebrated in a grand manner on Arudra star day at Arunachaleswarar Temple during the Tamil month of Margazhi. The month of Margazhi is also known as the ‘Twilight’ in Heaven (the time that the sun is in Sagittarius), and is considered the most appropriate time in which the Gods can rest and rejuvenate. This year Arudra Darshan fell on January 8th.






It is during this auspicious period that Lord Shiva’s birthday is celebrated. The day has been given this importance as Arudra Darshan is believed to be the period in which Lord Shiva’s energy is closest to earth.








Lord Shiva is worshipped in the cosmic dance form as Lord Nataraja, and the full moon night of Margazhi is also the longest night of the year. After this date, days get longer and nights get shorter. Lord Nataraja is the presiding deity of the famed Saivaite Temple at Chidambaram, one of the famed five Pancha Bootha Sthalams, and which represents akasha (ether).








The cosmic dance of Lord Shiva represents five activities – Creation, Protection, Destruction, Embodiment and Release. In essence, it represents the continuous cycle of creation and destruction. And it elaborately acted out and represented in most major Saivite Temples.






Dancing with Shiva

The world is seen as it truly is – sacred -- when we behold Siva's cosmic dance. Everything in the universe, all that we see, hear and imagine, is movement. Galaxies soar in movement; atoms swirl in movement. All movement is Siva's dance. When we fight this movement and think it should be other than it is, we are reluctantly dancing with Siva. We are stubbornly resisting, holding ourselves apart, criticizing the natural processes and movements around us.

It is by understanding the eternal truths that we bring all areas of our mind into the knowledge of how to accept what is and not wish it to be otherwise. Once this happens, we begin to consciously dance with Siva, to move with the sacred flow that surrounds us, to accept praise and blame, joy and sorrow, prosperity and adversity in equanimity, the fruit of understanding. We are then gracefully, in unrestrained surrender, dancing with Siva. The Vedas state, "The cosmic soul is truly the whole universe, the immortal source of all creation, all action, all meditation. Whoever discovers Him, hidden deep within, cuts through the bonds of ignorance even during his life on earth."

[By Satguru Sivaya Subrmauniyaswami]

Anthony De Mello Stories

Anthony de Mello, a Jesuit priest from India, influenced many in the world through his powerful understanding of the human condition. And he pointed the way to authentic living with the use of parables and teaching stories.






Until his sudden death on June 2, 1987, Father Anthony de Mello was the director of the Sadhana Institute of Pastoral Counseling near Poona, India. He aimed simply to teach people how to pray, and how to wake up and live. He maintained that most people are asleep and that they need to wake up -- to open their eyes and see what is real.

Below are a couple of wonderful Anthony de Mello short stories. To those who have not yet discovered this sublime, inspirational speaker, please visit his website at this link here.



The Flea and the Elephant

A flea decided to move with his family into the ear of an elephant. So he shouted, "Mr. Elephant, Sir, my family and I plan to move into your ear. I think it only fair to give you a week to think the matter over and let me know if you have any objection?"

The Elephant, who was not even aware of the existence of the flea went his placid way so, after conscientiously waiting a week, the flea assumed the Elephant's consent and moved in. A month later Mrs. Flea decided the Elephant's ear was not a healthy place to live in and urged her husband to tell the Elephant that they were moving; in such way so as not to hurt the Elephant's feelings.

So, Mr. Flea put it to tactfully to the Elephant, "Sir, we plan to move to other quarters. This has nothing at all to do with you of course, because your ear is spacious and warm. It is just that my wife would rather live next door to her friends at the buffalo's foot. If you have any objection to our moving, do let me know in the course of the next week." The Elephant said nothing, so the flea changed residence with a clear conscience.

Moral of the Story: Relax -- the Universe is not aware of your existence!



The Saint

There once lived a man so godly that even the angels rejoiced at the sight of him. But in spite of his great holiness, he had no notion that he was holy. He just went about his humdrum tasks diffusing goodness like the way of flowers -- unselfconsciously, diffusing their fragrance like street lamps diffuse their glow.

The saint's holiness lay in this - that he forgot each person's past and looked at them as they were now, and he looked beyond each person's appearance to the very centre of their being where they were innocent and blameless and too ignorant to know what they were doing. Thus he loved and forgave everyone that he met - and he saw nothing extraordinary in this for it was the result of his way at looking at people.

One day an angel said to him, "I have been sent to you by God. Ask for anything you wish and it will be given to you. Would you wish to have the gift of healing?" "No," said the man, "I'd rather God did the healing himself."

"Would you want to bring sinners back to the path of righteousness?" "No," he said, "It is not for me to touch human hearts. That is the work of angels."

"Would you like to be such a model of virtue that people will be drawn to imitate you?" "No," said the saint, "For that would make me the centre of attention."

"What then do you wish for?" asked the angel. "The Grace of God," was the man’s reply. "Having that, I have all I desire." "No," you must ask for some miracle," said the angel, "Or one will be forced on you." "Well then I shall ask for this, let good be done through me without my being aware of it."

So it was decreed that the holy man's shadow would be endowed with healing properties whenever it fell behind him. So, everywhere his shadow fell - provided he had his back to it - the sick were healed, the land became fertile, fountains sprang to life and colour returned to the faces of those who were weighed down by life's sorrow. But the saint knew nothing of this because the attention of people was so centred on the shadow that they forgot about the man and so his wish that good be done through him and he be forgotten, was abundantly fulfilled.


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To see more of Anthony de Mello, watch the below video about how to love.