Brahma Teertham

New Year in Tamil Nadu is celebrated on April 14th, however there has recently been a push by the political classes to switch the New Year to coincide with Pongal Harvest Festival on January 14th, be that as it may, Tamil Nadu also rather finely celebrates New Year on January 1st. Government run Temples in Tiruvannamalai stayed opened throughout the day in order to accommodate the vast crowd of devotees and pilgrims who wished to take darshan on the auspicious first day of the year.

I visited Arunachaleswarar Temple on January 1st to receive a nice blessing at Siva Sannidhi. However things didn't exactly go according to plan as even though I purchased a Rs.20/- darshan voucher, the crowds were endless and I had to wait for over two hours behind uncomfortable barricades before being able to enter the Sannidhi for darshan. I wish I could say that the two hour wait was fun -- it wasn't -- it was hot and squashed and I became increasingly cross and bad-tempered. Watch out people -- especially queue jumpers -- I'm not in the mood! The whole wait was a war of attrition. But finally it was over and I hobbled limply to the prasad stand to buy myself some quick energy sugar snacks.

On feeling more energetic I made my way to the Brahma Theertham, the tank located in the Fourth Prakaram of Arunachaleswarar Temple. For the last several years both Temple Tank gates, (Brahma Theertham and Sivagangai Theertham) are locked, thus making them inaccessible to visitors. But on New Years Day this year, the gates of the Tank were unlocked and welcoming. So, just like old times, I sat on the edge of the Tank steps with my feet in the water, feeding the fishes with my purchase from the prasad shop.

It was so nice to see people sitting at the edge of the tank, relaxing, enjoying and talking. I didn't miss the opportunity to take some photographs of Brahma Theertham as who knows when the tank will be open again like this.

Its regarded as very auspicious to take a bath in a holy Temple Tank and whilst sitting at the Tank, noticed lots of pilgrims come to the water for a quick splash about.

From Then to Now

Good Luck and Best Wishes in 2009

Click on photograph to enlarge

To welcome all visitors and readers to Arunachala Grace in 2009, I am posting photographs of Arunachaleswarar Temple; taken from a distance in 1949 and the second photograph was taken December 11, 2008 -- the morning of Bharani Deepam.

Click on photograph to enlarge

Lots to Chat About

Hope everybody is having a wonderful holiday through Christmas and the New Year - the kids at Tiruvannamalai certainly are with lots of days off from School over Christmas.

Hope to be posting more regularly on Arunachala Grace very shortly and still have some very special Deepam photographs to post.

Also the current issue of Arunachala Grace News will soon be going out direct to the inbox of all newsletter subscribers. The combination of bad health, visit of a welcomed friend, Deepam, Christmas, and of course the very distracting presence of my Guruji at Tiruvannamalai over the holidays are all responsible for the long delay since the last Arunachala Grace News.

Winding Down

Last night (Saturday, December 20th) the Deepam Flame was still alight on top of Arunachala but I think thats probably the end of it for this year and we will now have to wait until December 1st, 2009 for the next Bharani Deepam and all attendant festivities.

On my way home yesterday afternoon through town on a desperate search for a cup of tea, I met up with a wagon being hauled to the Big Temple which was carrying the levers used with the Maha Radham chariot. The photograph gives a good idea of the size and weight of the huge levers.

I took the below photograph also whilst on North Sannidhi Street (in front of the Big Temple) of a deserted ride named "Break Dance" located at the Temple entranceway and with a rather incongruous 'Statue of Liberty' by the side of the ride.

However I still have photographs which I hope to be posting on Arunachala Grace of later Festival functions, so keep checking back.

Pavala Kundru History

On my way from Tiruvannamalai Bus Stand to Ramana Nagar whilst going through the business end of town, I took the below photograph of one of my favourite Tiruvannamalai Temples, Pavala Kundru (i.e. Jewel of the Hill). This revered Temple has a fascinating history which starts with the legend of Goddess Parvati and her time on the Hill whilst performing tapas. In recent times Pavala Kundru is associated with Ramana Maharshi’s stay at the Temple. Currently there is a dispute underway regarding construction on the adjacent Coral Hill. But probably the most charming recent assocation of the Temple is its colony of beautiful Langur Monkeys.

View from Town

History of Pavala Kundru

“In 1790 Tippu Sultan captured Tiruvannamalai over-riding the Treaty of Mangalore (1784 A.D.) in which he and the English agreed to mutual restoration of conquests and exchange of prisoners. Tippu Sultan attacked Thiagadurga Fort (30 miles south of Tiruvannamalai). The whole population of the surrounding region took refuge in this fort.

Activated by the news from Thiagadurga and apprehending attack, the inhabitants of Tiruvannamalai collected arms and men to defend themselves till British reinforcements arrived. When Tippu Sultan attacked Tiruvannamalai, its inhabitants put up a brave resistance but were compelled to surrender in the end. Tippu Sultan, it is said, occupied the hillock of Pavalakkunru after destroying the small shrine that was there. His solders, it seems, were cruel to the people of the town but strangely the Temple of Sri Arunachala was left untouched, barring a single cannon shot that was fired at it. The missile seems to have hit a part of the northern wall causing minimal damage. After camping there for some weeks, Tippu Sultan and his army left Tiruvannamalai.

Location of Temple on a Arunachala Hillock

A gun belonging to Tippu Sultan was found buried near the hillock where he had camped. It was taken and placed in a museum in Madras. Ramana Maharshi said that whatever Temple might have existed on or about Pavalakkunru seemed to have disappeared probably on account of Tippu Sultan’s invasion. The present Temple was probably built only a hundred and fifty years ago.”

Temple Gods Girivalam

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During each Deepam Festival the God statues from Adi Annamalai Temple join with those of Arunachaleswara Temple to perform girivalam of Arunachala. This year Bharani Deepam was on December 11th and following tradition, the night after Deepam around 11 p.m. on the 12th December, the statues of Shiva-Parvati, Parvati and Shakti from Adi Annamalai were taken to Arunachaleswara Temple where they spent the night.

The next morning on the 13th the three statues from Adiannamalai seated on pandals pulled by tractors, led the three statues from the Big Temple; Arunachaleswara-Unnamalai, Parvati and Shakti-Durga -- and together the statues seated on six separate pandals performed girivalam of Arunachala Hill.

The below is of Shiva-Parvati from Adi Annamalai Temple, which is leading the procession around the Hill.

The statue of the Goddess.

The below pandal carries Arunachaleswara-Unnamalai of the Big Temple. Throughout the girivalam the pandals stop whenever devotees wish to make an offering to the Gods.

Deepam is the only time in the year that statues from both major Temples (Adi Annamalai and Arunachaleswara) perform girivalam together and visit devotees living throughout the area. The only other time Arunachaleswara-Unnamalai perform girivalam is during the Tiruvoodal Festival celebrated at Pongal (Tamil harvest festival in January).

More Maha Radham Photographs

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Further to my posting on December 8th of the Big Car Festival which is part of the annual Deepam Festival, I am posting below more photographs of that day.

The ladies in the next photograph are actually holding on to chains attached to the Big Car and pulling it along -- which is its only means of propulsion.

In the below young lads jump on wooden levers jammed under the gigantic car wheels to give it a 'jump start' whenever it gets stuck.

The car started moving at 2 p.m. around the perimeter of the 26 acre Arunachaleswara Temple compound and by the time it had completed its circumbulation, night had fallen.

This year for the very first time I participated in the pulling of the chariot for most of the length of Thiruvoodal Street (which is famous during Pongal for a celebratory drama -- Thiruvoodal Festival -- between Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati). It was an amazing and thrilling experience.

Swami Nithyananda Birth Star Celebrations

Swami Nithyananda will be visiting Tiruvannamalai on December 21, 2008 -- to participate in celebrations of his 32nd Birth Star.

The public celebrations include a procession at 9.00 a.m. originating at the Arunachaleswara Temple. The procession will be carrying statues of the God and Goddess, Anandeswara and Anandeswari on a chariot which will end at Nithyanandapuri -- Swami's Ashram located near Adi Annamalai on the Girivalam Roadway.

Food will be offered to all at that ashram at 1.00 p.m.

At the same venue at 6.00 p.m. Swami Nithyananda will give a discourse in Tamil which is anticipated to last 1 1/2 hours.

Bharani Deepam 2008

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At about 4:30 am on the day of Bharani Deepam, which this year fell on December 11th, this is how the day started:

Early morning at Temple

The chief priest has just finished a simple ritual called Bharani Deepam and now ceremoniously waves a huge camphor flame in the direction of nearby Arunachala mountain. Although he is chanting Sanskrit slokas, he cannot be heard amidst the deafening furor of devotion that surrounds him. Finally, he touches the flame he is holding to the wicks of five huge, earthen, ghee-filled pots, representing the sacred elements earth, air, fire, water and ether. As these five flames loom up with red-yellow light, the famous, one-day, South Indian festival of Krittika Deepam officially begins.

The five pots

The one flame

A flame taken from the five earthen pots that were lit just after the early morning temple ceremony of Bharani Deepam is kept burning in the Temple throughout the day as a symbol of the merging of manifestation back into God, the one source of all. This single flame is referred to as the Bharani Deepam. At 10:00 in the morning, a select group of fishermen are blessed by the temple priest with a small ceremony. At this time, amidst ringing bells and temple music, the priest gives the fishermen a lamp that has been lit from the Bharani Deepam in the Temple. This lamp, also called Bharani Deepam, will be taken by the fishermen to the top of the mountain.

Local fishermen are traditionally given the privilege of carrying the Bharani Deepam up the mountain and lighting the Krittika Deepam in the evening, because, according to a popular myth, Parvati (the wife of Lord Siva) was born in a fishing village.

Devotees climbing the hill

Significance

"There is immense significance in this first Krittika Deepam ceremony called Bharani Deepam. At this time, the universal Lord manifests as the five elements, which will later fully merge to become one when the Krittika Deepam flame is lit in the evening. From one to many and many to one. This is the whole essence of Saivism and the meaning of Krittika Deepam."

All across India, millions of bonfires are lit on hills and in temples on Krittika Deepam. But nowhere is this festival celebrated like it is at Tiruvannamalai. Here it is unique.

Heightened security this year on Hill

Krittika Deepam occurs annually in the lunar month of Kartika, which occurs in November/December, on the last day of the 10-day festival called Brahmotsavam. It is on this auspicious day that, at precisely 6:00 in the evening, a sacred fire is lit on top of the 2,668 foot Arunachala mountain to symbolize the merging of all manifest existence back into the one source of all things. It is said that those who witness this sacred ceremony personally receive the blessings of Siva and Parvati. All of the traditional temple rituals that are performed during Brahmotsavam create a spiritual fervency that culminate with great power on Krittika Deepam as a grand congregation of devotees, holy men, officials, police personnel and media squeeze together, shoulder to shoulder, to witness the festival's magnificent consummation.

View of Temple and town from hill

Preparations for this holy day begin one month in advance with the local administration, revenue department, police and temple authorities. Since early morning, temple staff and volunteers have been carrying five-gallon containers of ghee and large pots of thick, braided cloth wicks to the top of Arunachala mountain. Once the mountaintop flame has been lit, it must be kept burning for ten days, which requires vast quantities of wick and clarified butter.

Deepam pot positioned on top of Hill


Devotees climbing on the hill,
miscreants lighting fires for luck (a local superstition)



Pot waiting to be lit -
moon in left corner background

As the day wanes into dusk and night begins to darken the sky, pilgrims stand or sit, motionless with anticipation, at the base of Arunachala mountain, preparing to worship God Siva as an infinite pillar of light.

By 5:00 in the evening, the area surrounding the Temple flagpole, as well as the adjoining terrace, is packed. People are grabbing seats to observe the dramatic arrival of five exquisitely decorated palanquins, carrying the Hindu Gods Vinayaka, Subramanya, Siva, Amba and Chandikeshwara. The devotees are constantly moving and adjusting their positions to get a better view and to make way for still more people pouring in.

Suddenly, the crowd's attention shifts to the Temple entrance from behind the flag pole. Some devotees jump up to get a better view. The first palanquin arrives with a dramatic flair. It's the Vinayaka Deity, a form of Lord Ganesha. Exquisitely bedecked with a variety of flowers artistically arranged, this relatively small Deity seems magically large in its luxurious setting. More than eight people are carrying the heavy wooden palanquin. They dance with graceful dignity to the accompaniment of temple music, devotional singing and Sanskrit prayers. Soon enough, they reach their designated position in front of the flag pole and come to a stop.

In a few minutes, the next palanquin arrives “Subramanya”. It's a little bigger. Unmindful of its weight, those who are carrying this celestial cargo somehow manage to dance with abandon, rocking the Deity joyously.

Now another palanquin is arriving, rocking to and fro. "Swami, Swami," the crowd shouts. Here, "Swami" is referring to Siva. Amba (Goddess Parvati) is right behind, followed by Chandikeshwara.

Within about 30 minutes, five palanquins have arrived in all their spiritual pageantry.

Later the five murtis gathered in the Temple compound

Finally, the appointed moment arrives. Against the backdrop of a sunset sky, crowned with the rising star of Kartika, thundering firecrackers, ringing Temple bells and a frenzy of rhythmic chanting merge to create a cacophony of chaotic splendor. Camphor is lit in a cauldron by the Temple flag pole, signaling priests on top of the mountain to light their flame.

Deepam on top of Arunachala Hill

The timing is perfectly synchronized

The air is charged as the overpowering sight of light, signifying Siva in the form of Jyoti (divine light), merges with Parvati to become Siva/Sakti. Now, finally, Ardhanarishvara is brought out of the Temple with great ceremonial fanfare. This is the only day of the year that this particular Deity is ever moved. It is most auspicious.

To learn more about the 'Legend of Ardhanarishvara' at Arunachala go to this link here.

When that flame is seen by the thousands of devotees below, the entire countryside explodes with flashing luminescence. Bonfires, lamps, neon lights and fireworks light the night like day as a surging, thronging, emotionally charged mass of devotees chant, "Arunachala Siva," "Annamalai” and "Annamalai Harohara”. The sight of the Krittika Deepam is magical. It brings an inexplicable joy. People are ecstatic, mesmerized by the light.

The Temple is closed for a day after Krittika Deepam, because it is believed that, when Arunachala manifested Himself in the Deepam, He temporarily shifted His abode from the temple to the hilltop.

Long-time pilgrims assert that, even years later, the very thought of an otherworldly moment like this recreates it, just as if it is happening fresh and new.

[Edited extract from ‘Fire on the Mountain’]

Photographs on their way

Hope to be posting lots of amazing Deepam photographs over the next few days -- so keep checking back to view photos which will include the Bharani function at Arunachaleswara Temple and the actual lighting of the Deepam Flame on top of Arunachala Hill.

Deepam Lighting

I am below reproducing below an interesting newspaper report on the lighting of the 2008 Deepam at Tiruvannamalai.

“With the setting sun painting a dramatic red hue in the sky and providing a backdrop and 30 Lakh devotees loudly chanting 'Om Namah Shivaya', the maha Karthigai Deepam' was lit on top of the Tiruvannamalai hill on Thursday evening to mark the Karthigai festival.

Believed to be one of the oldest rituals in the world, the Maha Karthigai Deepam is the first to be lit atop the hill in a five feet high cauldron. It is only after the lamp is lit here that temples and people across Tamil Nadu light lamps on Karthigai festival.

This time too the 'Deepam' was lit to the joy of lakhs of devotees who gathered in the temple and around the hill but amidst unprecedented security arrangements. Lakhs of devotees climbed up the hill to catch a glimpse of the light. The flame is said to be visible for over 10 kms around Tiruvannamalai.

The cauldron is a big brass vessel designed in the form of a lamp and placed on top of the hill. It is filled with ghee and butter donated by devotees. An enormously thick wick made of loosely twisted woven fibres is immersed into the vessel and one end of the wick is drawn out. The lamp is lit around 6 pm when the full moon emerges from the east and appears on the horizon in the month of Karthigai. At the same time, in the temple, the idol of 'Ardhanarishvara' is brought out in a ceremonial manner.

‘First idols of Lord Ganesha, Muruga, Arunachaleshwara and Unnamulai are brought in procession and kept inside the 16 pillared Mandapam. Then exactly at 6 pm, Ardhanarishvara is brought out and at the same time, the lamp is lit on top of the hill. A signal using a lamp is shown from the temple to synchronise the timing. Early in the morning the 'Bharani' Deepam named after a star was lit,’ said a temple official.

Cutting across all religions, devotees make a beeline for the hill and ensure that the festival is celebrated with fervour. ‘Right from donation of ghee to making fireworks for the festival, people of all religions are involved. The lamp atop the hill also signifies one religion and one god,’ said the official.

Elaborate security arrangements were also made to prevent any untoward incident. According to a senior police official, 7,500 policemen including three deputy inspector generals of police, six superintendents of police, commando teams and 200 special task force personnel were deployed. People who were climbing the hill were prevented from carrying camphor or matchbox. Close circuit television cameras were also placed around the temple.”

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Sadly a police head constable, who was posted on duty at Tiruvannamalai (along the Girivalam roadway) during the just concluded Karthigai Deepam festival died reportedly of stress on Friday morning. It is not known whether the head constable named Chandran, who was attached to the Crime Branch at Tiruthani Police Station, had any previous health complications.

He along with some 100 police personnel from the Tiruvallur district were posted for security duty at Tiruvannamalai since 9 am on Thursday. Chandran’s collegues said lack of sleep, rest and timely food had apparently caused his death. His colleagues said when Chandran was about to board the bus to return to his hometown they had heard him complaining of pain and then he swooned. He was taken to a government hospital where he was declared “brought dead.”

In another incident, a devotee who was carrying a ghee pot reportedly died of a heart attack whilst climbing Arunachala Hill on Thursday. The person was identified as a 25 year old man hailing from Perungappur Village, Villupuram District.

Cow Puja at Sri Nannagaru Ashram

As is his custom Sri Nannagaru, who hails from Jinnuru, Andhra Pradesh, visits Tiruvannamalai each year to celebrate Arunachala Deepam. Hundreds of his Andhra devotees follow him to Tiruvannamalai and while staying at his Ashram, organize various pujas and functions to be held the Deepam week. This visit Sri Nannagaru arrived at Tiruvannamalai December 10th and will be leaving in the morning of December 15th.

The below sequence of photographs are from a very nice cow puja celebrated yesterday at Sri Nannagaru Ashram.

The puja was particularly interesting for me as I count dear Iswari -- the grey and white cow -- as an old chum as I used to daily feed and pet her while she was a calf. Now she herself has her own beautiful calves.

And in the below photograph Sri Nannagaru surrounded by some of his Andhra devotees, look to Arunachala.

The view of Arunachala from Sri Nannagaru Ashram.

Deepam 2008 Lighting

Click on photos to enlarge

Its late afternoon and I am at Sri Nannagaru Ashram to watch and celebrate the lighting of the Deepam flame on top of Arunachala, with my Guru and his devotees. As is the custom at this Ashram, a ghee lamp is waiting in the courtyard, to be lit after the Deepam on the Hill.

In the below photograph, my guruji -- Sri Nannagaru.

And we all sit waiting for the Deepam on top of Arunachala to be lit. And there it is.

Its dusk and it gets dark quickly.

As soon as the light appeared on top of Arunachala, the jyothi at the Ashram was lit by Sri Nannagaru. In the below he is circumbulating the light.

Its my preference to enjoy Deepam at the Ashram, but all over Tiruvannamalai there are celebrations, fireworks, ceremonies, functions and masses of people enjoying the evening in their own special way. Many homes like the one below have lighted ghee lamps stationed on their balconies and by their front doors.

The girivalam road is packed with pilgrims performing circumbulation of the Hill -- it will be like that through the night and well into tomorrow morning.

HAPPY DEEPAM TO ONE AND ALL