Swami Ramdas

"Saints are beacons. Saints show the path. They hearten you in your struggle. Their words should carry absolute weight with you. They can awaken and enthuse you. But you have to advance on the path by your own growing inner power and will. You should feel conscious that the divine within is your sole refuge." [Swami Ramdas]

Swami Ramdas is another prominent saint of the 20th Century who is connected with Arunachala and spent a short time on the Hill living in a cave and performing austerities.

He was born in 1884 at Hosdrug, Kerala, India, and named Vittal Rao. He lived an ordinary life as householder in his community until he was thirty-six years of age, at which time an intense spritual transformation occured in him which filled him with an overwhelming wave of dispassion

At that critical time, his father initiated him into Ram mantra and assured him that by repeating it unstintingly he would, in due time, find true peace and happiness. As the mantra took hold of him, he found his life filled with Ram. It was then that he renounced wordly life and went forth in quest of God.

Eventually his travels took him to Tiruvannamalai, where he met with Sri Ramana Maharshi, Ramdas later said of the meeting, “The Maharshi, turning his beautiful eyes towards Ramdas, and looking intently for a few minutes into his eyes as though he was pouring into Ramdas his blessings through those orbs, nodded his head to say he had blessed. A thrill of inexpressible joy coursed through the frame of Ramdas, his whole body quivering like a leaf in the breeze.”

In that ecstatic state he left Maharshi's presence and went to spend nearly a month in a cave on the slopes of Arunachala to engage in the constant chanting of Ram mantra. This was the first occasion that he went into solitude. After twenty-one days, when he came out of the cave he saw a strange, all-pervasive light: everything was Ram and only Ram.

Following his experience in the caves of Arunachala, Ramdas continued his travels for nearly eight years which took him to many parts of India. Finally he settled down in Kanhangad, Kerala where the present Anandashram was founded in the year 1931.



One of the foremost amongst followers of Swami Ramdas was the great Indian sage Yogi Sri Ramsuratkumar (photograph above), who in 1952, achieved self realisation under the grace and light of his Swami. Yogi Ramsuratkumar attained samadhi at his own Ashram at Tiruvannamalai on February 20, 2001.

Walk in the Sun

This morning I had an appointment with my dentist at the Clinic, Rangammal Hospital and instead of taking an auto for the 3 km distance, decided to have a leisurely walk through the Arunachala countryside. This area is still unspoilt and has my favourite view of the South Side of the Hill.

Although Summer has started it was a lovely day; very toasty without being headaching hot that the later summer will be during the mid-day sun. So off I went. First thing I saw was a bunch of goats in their coral which was surrounded by thorny bushes. Goats have a much better life than cows in this area and spend most of the day with their goat herders ranging all over local waste land and only at night and early morning are put in their corals. Whereas the poor cows get tied up the whole time.

Next thing I spotted was a Tsunami colony home to people that were affected during the tsunami tidal wave a couple of years back. The colony is being developed by Terre Homme Trust and I expect to be be getting more information on the colony which I will post soon.




The below photograph is of a family cooking up a nice snack on a sunny Sunday mid-day. Here the two kids are on holiday from school, so its time to spend with Dad.

The next photograph is of a couple of bullocks having a nice munch in front of their home, in front of which the chilli is drying out in the sun. Alot of chilli in this area is in fact locally produced and is an essential ingredient of Indian cooking!

Below, more evidence of Sunday, and no-school. A bunch of lads just taking a stroll. A really nice bunch of kids.

In India, especially in the countryside, folk just love sitting on their verandah, watching the world go by. Sadly, now with the advent of cable TV, there doesn't seem to be as much communal spirit as before. I remember one evening walking through a residential area of Ramana Nagar during a power-cut. The area was pitch-black and most people were sitting outside their homes chatting with one another and getting along. However, immediately the power went back on, most of the folk stopped their conversation in mid-sentence and went back into their homes to their 60+ channel international cable TV. Sometimes with the prosperity that allows the purchase of, what would have previously been considered a luxury item (e.g. colour TV), there are some very serious downsides!

The little thatched house looked really pretty amongst the trees, specially with the lovely chestnut colour cow in the foreground.

Here is a potmaker off to town to sell his wares. He makes kitchen utensils out of aluminium. He purchases aluminum in sheets and then beats and molds the sheet into pot shapes of varying sizes. He told me that the giant pot at the bottom of the pile took a whole day to make. Hope he makes some good sales in town.

Two gents hanging around near the village centre. Even five years ago the common form of transportation in Tiruvannamalai was the bicycle. However with the introduction of finance companies and instalment purchasing, just about everyone seems to have a motorbike. Again not necessarily a good thing.

A farm growing jasmine flowers that will probably be used for making garlands for worship or even to adorn the ladies. As is the case in most Asian countries, ladies in India usually wear flowers in their hair, however in this country, they wear the flowers at the back of the head not near or behind the ears like other Asian cultures. I remember hearing an older Indian lady chiding a younger one for wearing flowers near the front of her head, 'just like a small girl'.

I really like this thatched roof. I went inside the hut and the lady told me that it was completely water-proof. It must be so because the inside of the cottage was electrified and had sockets and appliances everywhere. A thatched roof like this will last up to 7 years and it will really help in cooling down the temperature in the house.

Some Tamarind Trees on the right side of the countrylane. I will write a separate post later on about this tree which I find a fascinating subject. Specially the ghost supersition associated with it throughout Tamil Nadu.

I could feel this man's pain as he was running with his heavy load which will probably be used for feeding for his livestock. His knees were almost buckling with the weight of his load and I could sense that he didn't dare stop and unburdened himself for a rest, because then he would never have got back the courage to put the dreadful weight back on his head!

I believe in North India, specially in places like Calcutta things are different, and there you often see men carrying heavy loads on their heads, but here at Tiruvannamalai and all over Tamil Nadu, its nearly always the woman who carries the load on their head. Sadly this is responsible for a lot of health problems at even a young age. A local doctor was telling me about the dreadful health complications for ladies working on construction sites, and being forced to carry bricks and other construction material on their heads.

As to the man in the picture, I was so interested in his progress that I waited to see whether he would get home in one piece, and I can happily report he made it back safely and with his cargo intact.

I'm on the homestretch now on the way back to my house and such a lovely view to welcome me back. A perfect morning's walk in the sun.

Its quiet and peaceful and it seems a million miles away from the hustle and bustle of just a few kilometres and the town. When inside the town of Tiruvannamalai its difficult to realise just how small it is. In this respect, its fascinating to climb to the top of Arunachala and look around and realise just how much outlaying countryside is still unspoilt and pristine. And long may it remain so!

Sandblasting

During the recent visit of a team from Chennai to Arunachaleswarar Temple in regard to the setting up of a Temple Museum, the specialist group saw first hand damage caused to Temple artifacts due to the sand blasting of sculptures and bas-reliefs.

In the above photograph you can see evidence of the bad results of sandblasting, which in this picture has resulted in a cracked pillar (and then cemented) in the Arunachaleswarar Temple's Thousand Pillared Hall. Also included in spoiled artifacts are: a badly damaged bas-relief sculpture (in front of the Big Nandi) in the Mandapam, a granite stone in the base of the Gopuram on the North Side of the Temple and also damaged inscriptions.

The Chennai team have since learnt that the ban on sandblasting Temple artifacts has been re-imposed and the preferred method of cleaning with liquid ammonia, which is amenable to mechanisation and reasonably priced has been reintroduced.

TB Control

To control the impact of TB in Tamil Nadu, effective measures have been taken by the Government through Designated Medical Centres. After inspecting the performance of TB control units in; Tiruvannamalai, Dharmapuri, Vellore and Krishnagiri, deficiencies were found in administrative issues and treatment given to patients in several TB units in the District.

As per a World Health Organisation Report, included in the deficiencies are; a shortage of pharmacists and lab technicians in TB units, no provision of Directly Observed Treatment in several Designated Medical Centres, non-observance of proper Laboratory guidelines and variations in TB treatment. It was also stated in the Report that there was a lack of commitment and sincerity among the staff of TB units and the quality of supervision and monitoring by staff was very poor.

Sri Seshadri Swamigal

Seshadri Swamigal lived January 22, 1870 to January 4, 1929 and spent the last 40 years of his life wandering the streets of Tiruvannamlai. Seshadri Swamigal and Ramana Maharshi (Ramana arrived at Arunachala six years later than Seshadri) were contemporaries. It was Seshadri who found Ramana in the Patala Linga at Arunachala Temple, protecting him from urchins and bringing him to the notice of the world.

Locals used to call Sri Seshadri, Mother Parvathi and Sri Ramana, Skanda (Lord Subramanya). Sometimes Sri Seshadri Swamigal, the older by ten years would be called 'elder Seshadri' (anna) and Sri Ramana 'younger Seshadri' (thambi). One time a devotee told Sri Ramana that everyone called Seshadri a mad man. Ramana smilingly replied that there were three mad men in Arunachala. One was Seshadri, the second was Arunachaleswarar and the third was himself. Sri Ramana said of Swamji, 'Sri Seshadri does not allow people to come near him. Here all are coming'.

Throughout his life and teachings Sri Seshadri continuously emphasised the glory of Arunachala talking often about the unique aspects of Arunachala kshetra:

'This is the place where Swamy and Ambal invite all and confer liberation', and 'Lord Krishna leaving aside his sudarshana chakra (wheel) is playing on his flute. On hearing it Lord Siva who is inside the mountain comes out and dances'. And,'This is Siva Lingam. It is enough to worship this. One can become spiritually enlightened and attain liberation'.

Ilustrating the similarity of the Arunachaleswarar Temple to Arunachala Hill, Sri Seshadri said to those wasting their time discussing worldly affairs and neglecting God: 'He spreads his shop in the morning. Closes it at night. He does not see Lord Arunachaleswara. What is the use? Visit the temple. Visit the temple. Visit the temple'.

He was ever emphasising the inestimable value of giripradakshina instructing:'One should pray to Lord Arunachaleswara all the time. In particular perambulation of the hills should be done on Tuesdays. Deep devotion will arise'.

Sri Seshadri Swamigal's samadhi tomb is enshrined within the grounds of Sri Seshadri Ashram on Chengam Road, Tiruvannamalai. Although Sri Seshadri Swamigal has shed his mortal coil, He is ever present helping, blessing and guiding his devotees to everlasting bliss. His own search brought him to Arunachala and it is to the sacred Hill that Swamigal tells all to look to, to fulfil life's highest goal. Visit this link to read a short, excellent biography of this great saint.

Shenbagathoppu Dam

To add to the sad dislocation of the tribals of the area, now at a recent press meeting held at Tiruvannamalai, the ill-fated Shenbagathoppu Reservoir is being accused of financial irregularities.

The project was first drafted in 1996 with an estimated cost of Rs.21.31 crore (U.S.$4,819,222). But in 2001, the estimate was revised and fixed at Rs.34 crore (U.S.$7,689,045). The deadline was extended from 2004 to March 31, 2007. But as of this date approximately only 75% of the dam has been completed.

Approach roads remain to be laid and bunds in the dam need to be properly covered with cement lining instead of the current earth lining. It has been reported that norms have not been properly followed and houses constructed for those evacuated from the dam area, were substandard and unfit for living.

Temple Museum

The Thousand Pillar Hall in Tiruvannamalai Arunachaleswarar Temple, kept closed throughout the year despite its sculptural richness, will now house a Museum which will feature various aspects and information about the Temple.

The Thousand Pillar Hall, situated near the Raja Gopuram of the Arunachaleswarar Temple, possesses carved stone pillars, and once served as a rice warehouse for the Tamil Nadu Civil Supply Corporation. After that use was abandoned the Hall was then used to house the Temple elephant. Since the time the elephant was given other housing, the Thousand Pillar Hall has remained locked and used only during the annual 'Arudhra Darshan' festival, when it was opened for the murti of Lord Nataraja to give 'darshan' to thousands of devotees, waiting outside the Hall.

As interested parties were worried about the plight of the Thousand Pillar Hall which is believed to have been constructed during the Krishnadevaraya period, (early 16th Century) the Government proposed to establish a Museum in the Mandapam. The Temple administration has sought suggestions on the setting up of the museum from the Commissioner of Museums, and as a consequence detailed recommendations have been given to the Temple authorities.

In the report, it has been recommended, that the proposed Museum should be set up utilising 12,700 sq ft (nearly half) of the Hall featuring hundreds of bronze, metallic and wooden objects, small stone sculptures, portraits collected by the Temple administration and a model of the temple. Also a sculpture garden could be set up in 8,400 sq ft land near the Hall, in which old stone-carved Temple works could be exhibited.

The proposed Museum work would need funding of about Rs.50 Lakhs.

Beauty

"Every beauty which is seen here below by persons of perception resembles more than anything else that celestial source from which we all come . . . " [Michelangelo]

Special Economic Zones (SEZ)

Taiwanese footwear company Lotus Footwear Enterprises is expressing concern over the current freeze from Delhi Central Government on economic approvals and notifications. Tamil Nadu State Government has written to the Prime Minister's Office and Commerce Department, pointing out that a further delay in a decision on SEZs (special economic zones) would result in the flight of proposed internal investments to other countries.

Taiwan-based Feng Tay Enterprises, whose group company Lotus Footwear Enterprises received a formal clearance for setting up a 275-acre footwear SEZ in Tiruvannamalai District, has written to the Commerce Department pointing out that there is an urgent need for production to start as they are under contractual obligation with worldwide buyers.

The Company has plans of investing over Rs.300 crore and generating employment for 2,000 people. Since the Company is already in possession of land, it has ordered machinery. For a previous posting on this check out:

http://arunachalagrace.blogspot.com/2006/09/taiwanese-shoe-company.html

Population Figures

India's population, which is estimated to have gone up from the census 2001 figure of 1.029 billion to 1.112 billion in 2006 is projected to increase to 1.4 billion by 2026. The current 62.9% demographic of 15-64 years old will increase to 68.4% by 2026.

In 2001, Tamil Nadu's population stood at 62.1 million. The State accounts for 5.05% of India's population. Its population density of 478 persons per sq km. is much higher than the all-India density of 324. Tamil Nadu is the 11th most densely populated State in India and approximately 47% of the State's population live in urban areas. During the decade 1991-2001, Tamil Nadu reported the second lowest growth in population after Kerala and this trend is continuing in the current decade.

Results of the most recent Census of 2001 place the population of Tiruvannamalai District (which comprises: Tiruvannamalai, Chengam, Polur, Arani, Vandavasi and Cheyyar) at 2.18 million comprising 1.09 million males and 1.08 million females. The density of population stands at 352 per sq km and the sex ratio 996 females per 1000 males.

Ordinary Day

Householders, who regard the giving of food to sadhus and pilgrims to be a great blessing, often arrange such feedings to as great a number of pilgrims that their budget can afford. Throughout Tiruvannamalai such events are regularly conducted at private homes, ashrams, shrines and temples. At the below feeding the householders themselves are serving lunch to the sadhus.

And here we are receiving a nice blessing from a sadhu also present at the same feeding.

On leaving the compound of the sadhu feeding we bump into a late arriving sadhu blowing on his conch. He was very jolly and friendly.

Some short distance and on the left of the pradakshina road local farmers are growing marigolds that will later be used to probably make garlands for various religious activities.

Two locals carrying woven bamboo leaves to be used for making some kind of bamboo roof or shelter.




Just another ordinary day at extra-ordinary Arunachala.

Tiruvannamalai Station

Tiruvannamalai is a Railway station on the Villupuram-Katpadi line of Southern Railway and located some 70 kilometers from Villupuram and 97 kilometers from Katpadi. Before the development of a proper road system, it was this railway line that brought many pilgrims and saints to Arunachala.

Due to the rapid urbanisation of Tiruvannamalai, proposals are underway regarding the setting up of an additional railway station some five kilometres from the existing one.

This is the traveller's first sighting of Arunachala after coming out of the railway station.

Keep Your Cool

Generally, it seems that Summer in the South is often reckoned to start around the time of Mahashivaratri. Well this year it has a come a little late and it is only now beginning to heat up. The seasonal transition seems to literally change overnight from warm to hot. The Summer season at Tiruvannamalai is a long one, extending from around March all the way through to September-October. Tiruvannamalai is particularly hot because of the radiating heat generated by Arunachala; which is often the case when a mountain is located in plains or a plateau.

Even now air conditioning is very much reserved for a small minority of people of this area, so others are well advised to utilise well proven folklore and commonsense in keeping cool throughout the hot Summertime.

An important factor in keeping cool is between frequent bathing, to wash the face as often as possible. To avoid nasty rashes, use specially formulated talcum power to help prevent prickly heat. Also sandalpaste on the forehead is very cooling.

Stay away from synthetic fabrics and stick to cottons and linens in light, pastel colours. Sun glasses are essential and medium to dark lenses with a grey, brown or green tint are preferred.

Certain delicious foods such as; mango, pineapple and papaya are regarded as hot foods and increase body heat; so keep their consumption to a minimum. Cooling foods include; butterfruit, chickoo (sapotta), watermelon, grapes, lemon, tender green coconut, musk melon, palm fruit. Heat reducing vegetables are; cucumber, radish, snake gourd, bottle gourd and ridge gourd. Drinks to avoid are coffee, tea and carbonated beverages whereas drinks that help in the cooling process are; buttermilk, aloe drink, sugarcane juice, fresh juices and water.

Bamboo screens covered with aloe vera are traditionally used near doors and windows in Tamil Nadu, to combat the heat. These screens are known as Vettiver Thatti (aloe vera screens). Bamboo is also a great option for a roof cover and if properly erected will decrease the ground floor temperature as much as 5 degreees centrigrade. Avoid using such materials as asbestos, fibre sheeting and Mangalore tiles on or around your terrace or roof.

Also to visitors to Tiruvannamalai please remember the sun in South India is a tropical one and much fiercer than that of more temperate, western climes. Thus, its best to stay indoors during the hottest times of the day and if forced to venture outside either wear a sunhat or use an umbrella as a sunshade.

Garbhagrha

The Sanctum (Garbhagrha) of the sacred Annamalaiyar is reached by the main entrance in the east of Arunachaleswarar Temple. Within the sanctum Annamalaiyar, Personified, is present in Linga form:

Eleventh 5-Year Plan

The State Planning Commission (SPC) recently announced that the Eleventh Five-Year-Plan (2007-12) of Tamil Nadu would address economic disparities among Districts. In this respect Districts such as; Tiruvannamalai, Villupuram and Dharmapuri are lagging behind in population, education, public health, infant mortality and agricultural growth.

Taking these factors into consideration the State Planning Commission proposes devising techniques to boost growth in the above-mentioned Districts. Efforts would be taken to achieve an overall 8.5% economic growth in the State, during the eleventh 5-Plan period (2007-2012). Since there was a slump in the growth rate of the agricultural sector during the last two five-year-plan periods, pains would be made to ensure a 4% growth in this sector during 2007-12, thus ensuring long term food security.

Currently 14,000,000 people are living below the poverty line in Tamil Nadu and it is proposed that the State Planning Commission should come up with effective measures to mitigate poverty in its final proposal for the Eleventh Plan, which would be available in two months. To read the working committee approach papers subsequent to the upcoming final proposal of the eleventh 5-Year Plan please refer to:

http://www.tn.gov.in/spc/eleventhplan/

Arunachala Live

The below photograph of Arunachala is a freeze frame from a live image taken from a camera positioned on the pradakshina road. The live image of Arunachala is refreshed every minute during daylight hours.

To view the live image please check:

http://www.arunachala-live.com/

Land Redistribution

The third phase of free land distribution scheme of two-acre plots to poor and agricultural labourers will be launched at Chennavaram village, Tiruvannamalai District on March 17, 2007.

The State scheme, one of the major poll promises for the DMK government in its first two phases released 50,077 acres amongst 50,189 families. An official release said that about 2,500,000 acres would be distributed across the State in the third phase.

There are 640 acres in one square mile. Thus If the above official figures are correct, the Statewide total of all phases of the redistribution of land will come to approximately 4,000 square miles. Which is a sizeable chunk of the total area of the 50,215 sq miles total area of Tamil Nadu.

The Department of Agriculture will develop the land before handing it to the farmers. Works including land reclamation, contour bunding, clearing of bushes and wild growth, agronomical practices, removal of stones, sinking of deep borewells, soil testing and establishment of pump sets are to be done by the Department of Agriculture free of cost for the benefit of small and marginal farmers.

Temple News

Trust Board Chairman
It was recently announced that the new Chairman of the Temple Trust Board, would be selected by the recently appointed five Trustees of the Board who would choose the new appointee from amongst themselves.

This method of selecting the Chairman of the Temple Trust Board would over-ride the previous convention of the sitting Government arbitrarily appointing a person for the post. It was believed that formerly when the Government considered an appointee for the post of Chairman of the Temple Trust Board, invariably locals would be overlooked in preference to bringing in someone from outside Tiruvannamalai District.

Archakar Training
The archakar training for candidates from all communities to make them eligible for appointment as priests in Temples, as guaranteed in recently enacted State legislation, would begin soon in six centres, including one at Annamalayar Temple. Each centre would train approximately 40 students in Sanskrit Ahamas and Tamil Tirumurais.

There would be separate teachers for the two disciplines but it was decided that the Tamil Thirumurai teacher would be the head of the Centre.

Baby Girl Abandoned
Apparently a baby girl estimated to be about 10 days old, was recently abandoned at the gateway of Arunachaleswarar Temple. The child was fortunate to be abandoned live and at such a well visited site. In the case of other unwanted girl babies, their fate is often not so blessed.

This reminds me of a posting I made about a baby girl in similarly dire straits and her adoption by a remarkable, elderly Brahmin woman. You can read the full story at:

http://arunachalagrace.blogspot.com/2006/06/nataki-meets-bhavani.html

Lord Venkateshwara

The Balaji murti (Lord Venkateshwara) in this shrine-room is an exact copy of the Balaji black marble 6 foot statue statue at Tirupati. In front of the statue there are murtis of; Sri Ganesha and Sri Devi and Bhu Devi. This is the first major Vishnu Temple to be built at Arunachala and many people, with a love of Tirupati Balaji, are now coming to this Lord Venkateshwara Temple here at this place. To pray to Balaji is regarded as very auspicious in connection with the answer of worldly prayers.

This Temple, dedicated to Lord Venkateshwara, which was only inaugurated about two and a half years ago, is quickly becoming one of the busiest Temples in Tiruvannamalai. It is fortuitously situated right behind the Kubera Lingam on the Northeast side of Arunachala.

On Saturdays, the day particularly loved by Sri Balaji, crowds nearing the thousand are beginning to attend the elaborate pujas and bhajans. The crowds will only get bigger as the Temple construction gets closer to completion.

Westerner's View

. . . Tiruvannamalai is a holy city; a dense huddle of temples, ashrams and housing gathered at the foot of a small sandstone mountain. Though small, the sacred mountain Arunachala rises majestically from the dusty plains and glows a warm red in the morning light.

An area overflowing with the ashrams of various gurus, dead and living, and their spiritual devotees. The main street is an absorbing spectacle, lined with stalls selling pooja (offering) flowers, chalks, coconuts and bananas. Cows with decorated horns mingle with the traffic. Conscientious Westerners in crisp white pyjamas hurry past beggars, sleeping pilgrims and wild-bearded Sadhus (religious wanderers who have forsaken all relations and possessions) hunched over cooking stoves in their necklaces and dirty orange robes. As I stood, gaping, a funeral procession, all drums and trumpets, went past leaving a trail of colourful flowers trampled into the road. The woman, only hours dead, was strapped to an improvised taxi-float preceded by howling relatives. While most people here are vistors of a sort, we, the uninitiated, felt like the only tourists.

There's a real 'goldrush' energy about the town, with so many people believing they are on the cusp of discovering some divine secret of the universe or at the very least, salvation from their suffering and existential insecurity. As a heathen, I can only compare it to the street preaching scenes in 'Life of Brian'!

In Western-orientated cafes and coffeeshops we eyed up the busy noticeboards to find out what was going down: four different kinds of yoga class, satsangs with gurus from India, Australia, UK and Germany, classes in meditation, astrology, palmistry, strange dance and 'movement' classes with names like 'Somatics' and soul clensing mass blessings from visiting saints.

. . . We paced respectfully around the ashram temples, viewing the enlightened at close quarters and doing our best to imitate them. The Westerners, perhaps out of an earnestness about their quest, perhaps mysticised by the foreign and the ancient, appear to take things more seriously. Spines are straighter, lotus positions more athletic, eyes always closed, sublime expressions willing nirvana to come. The Indians, running the show on their home turf, effortlessly breathe life into the ceremonies in much the same way they do the markets or the street outside!

[Extract from Morgalogue]