Sudama House

Today I visited Sudama, which is the house Yogi Ramsuratkumar lived in before his Ashram was built. And it was on February 20, 2001 at 3:19 a.m. in his Ashram at Tiruvannamalai, Bhagavan Sri Yogi Ramsuratkumar attained mukti.

His devotees have very nicely arranged this house displaying many of the items used during his life. I very much enjoyed visiting Sudama and recommend it to visitors and pilgrims. The house is located in Ramana Nagar at the back of the Post Office and across the road from the new Shiva Sannidhi facility.

"On December 1st, 1918, the child Ramsurat Kunwar was born into a righteous and devout religious family. His birthplace in Bihar was a village close to the sacred river Ganges, not far from Varanasi (Benares). From childhood, the child evinced an intense spiritual thirst and had extraordinary devotion towards the river Ganges. Playing along its shores brought him happiness and contentment and he would often fall into a deep, peaceful sleep by the banks of the sacred river." To continue reading the biography of Yogi Ramsuratkumar go to this link here.

Story of Sudama

The house is named “Sudama” after the famous story of Sudama and Krishna. The legend states that Sudama and Krishna were childhood friends. Krishna grew up and became king of Dwarka while Sudama got married and lived in abject poverty in another kingdom. Nevertheless, a great childhood love existed between them. Sudama received an invitation to visit Krishna in his Kingdom. It was customary that invitees carry a gift as a token of appreciation but as Sudama was poor he had no money to buy a gift and hesitated to accept the invitation. His wife, however, encouraged him to go and packed the family’s last handful of rice as a gift. Sudama gained enough courage to visit his childhood friend but felt ashamed about the gift.

After a long and tiresome journey on foot, Sudama arrived at the gates of Krishna’s palace tired and hungry. The King’s guard reluctantly carried the message to the Krishna that someone by the name Sudama had come by invitation. On hearing the name Sudama, Krishna dismissed his engagements, begged leave, and hurried to the gate where his old childhood friend was waiting. Krishna, on seeing Sudama, relinquished all protocol by bowing and hugging his childhood friend.

Krishna himself assisted in refreshing Sudama with a bath and clean comfortable clothes. After the exchange of past memories, Krishna asked Sudama what he had brought for him. Sudama summoned all his courage and in a moment of weakness handed Krishna the handful of rice wrapped in cloth. Sudama watched in eager anticipation, as Krishna opened the rice and lovingly chewed on the first helping to the amazement of Sudama and the curious guests. Krishna ate the rice with great love with a contented smiling face, showing the happiness of meeting his childhood friend.

Krishna was greatly pleased to see his old friend and treated him royally and with much love. Overwhelmed Sudama forgets to ask for what he actually came to ask. But the Lord realises what His friend needs, and the lord's consort Rukmini incarnation of Lakshmi, gifts him with his desires. On his return journey, Sudama ponders his circumstances and is thankful for the great friend he has in Lord Krishna. When Sudama finally returns to his home, he finds a palatial mansion instead of the hut he had left. He also finds his family dressed in extremely nice garb and waiting for him. He lives an austere life after that, always thankful to the Lord.

The spiritual significance of this event reveals that when charity is given from the heart without expectations of name, fame, appreciation or recognition, then the rewards multi-million fold. This is the characteristic of a karma yogi who performs actions relinquishing the fruits of the actions. The myth of Sudama is symbolic of God’s descent on earth to destroy evil, protect the virtuous and re-establish dharma in preparation for the birth of Krishna. It represents souls who assisted God to impart the message of the Gita to destroy the vices of anger, greed, ego, lust and attachment and thus transform themselves.

Rural Arunachala

A couple of days ago on Ugadi (Telegu New Year) visited my friends at their farm south of Arunachala. But absolutely need no excuse to visit their place which is located about 8 kms from the base of Arunachala (as the crow flies).

They have a couple of acres of their farm currently under rice cultivation.

And below a worker winnowing the rice.

And next some of the beautiful cows at my friends' farm.

And more of their large herd of cows, peacefully grazing in front of Arunachala.

Some of the young 'uns foraging amongst some nice 'tasties' in a nearby field.

My friends have 11 doggies, most of whom have been with them since birth. Below is one of their large doggie contingent. As always when visiting the farm make sure to take lots of snacks for the doggies -- probably the reason I'm always welcomed by them with such a great fanfare.

One of the doggies making friends with the goats on the farm.

Nearby the farm are Reserve Forest Hills, which are excellent for a day's hiking and walking.

All in all a lovely way to welcome the New Year albeit Telegu New Year!

For information and photographs of agricultural land available in the same area as the farm, visit this link here.

One Look

In an earlier posting, Samudram Evening, I mentioned various interesting facts about this water reservoir area located south of Arunachala. Its a significant spot for many reasons and has several stories associated with it. I include below the narrative, 'One Look' - by T.K. Sundaresa about a conversation during a walk to Samudram Erie with Sri Ramana:

‘Bhagavan talked of many things on that walk [to the Samudram Lake] with us, but at this distance of time I remember only two topics that interested me.

At one place He pointed out a palmyra tree which had decayed in the embrace of a parasitic banyan tree. Some bird had dropped a banyan seed into the palmyra, and as it began to grow the palmyra became cloven and stunted in its own growth. Drawing our attention to this phenomenon, Bhagavan remarked that this is just what the look of Grace from a Jnani does. One look into a soul, and the whole tree of past tendencies and prejudices (vasana), gathered up through long cycles of past births, is burned up and decays away. Then the reality of the Self is experienced.


Thus He explained to us the effect of contact with the Great and He said the supreme Jnana obtained with the touch of the Saint can never be won through the study of any number of Scriptures, or by any store of good deeds, or by any other spiritual practices and efforts. Later, on return to the Ashram, I put this in verse form as below:

“A bird drops seed upon a tree and causes its decay.
So Guru's grace rays knowledge into the seeking mind.
Replacing ego-shadows with resplendent Jnana's light.”’

[T.K. Sundaresa Iyer -- At the Feet of Bhagavan]

Visit to Arunagirinathar Temple

Visited Arunagirinathar this morning for a function and was happy for the opportunity to spend time at this ancient, fascinating Temple. The large Iyyankulam Tank next to the Temple is famous as the venue for the Gods to leisurely enjoy some evenings during Deepam Festival on floats on the Tank.

Right-click on all photographs to view enlargement.

Today I climbed to the roof of a neighbour's house in order to take some photographs -- below is a very fine photo of the Temple Gopuram with Arunachala as background.

The below photograph is also taken from the neighbour's roof.

Renovation of this ancient Temple began about seven years ago. The Temple's independent Trust has done a great job in raising funds for its restoration and development.

I hope to soon post information about the mythology and history of this important Shiva Temple.

David Frawley on Self Enquiry

I have often mentioned Dr. David Frawley in issues of Arunachala Grace News, the free newsletter sent out direct to subscriber’s email inbox. Dr. Frawley is a regular visitor to Tiruvannamalai and many here have been fortunate to attend his talks and meetings.

Dr. Frawley is an author on Hinduism, Yoga and Ayurveda, and founder and director of the American Institute for Vedic Studies in Sante Fe, New Mexico, which offers courses on Yoga philosophy, Ayurveda, and Hindu astrology. He is Professor of Vedic Astrology and Ayurveda at the International Vedic Hindu University. He also a Vaidya (Ayurvedic doctor), and Jyotishi (Vedic astrologer).

To find out more about David Frawley you can read a short biography at this link here.

I include below a concise, informative and helpful narrative by David Frawley briefly explaining the path of the Jnana Yoga discipline ‘Self-enquiry’.

Yoga of Knowledge

“The Yoga of Knowledge is not a matter of acquiring theoretical or practical information. It is not the practice of the thinking mind, though it may start out with deep pondering of the primary questions of life (such as “who am I,’ Or “what is God, Truth or Reality?”). It is the practice of meditation, which is the mind in the sate of non-judgmental observation. Hence, the classical Jnani, or man of spiritual knowledge, is quite different than the philosopher straining at subtle ideas. He is often silent, impersonal and inactive, like the natural sage of Lao-Tse. Yogic knowledge is the state of awareness itself, which has not object and seeks no end, which relies on no book but reads the message of life moment by moment.

Hence, there is little theory to the Yoga of knowledge. Its prime statement is simple – Know Thyself. It usually avoids all metaphysical theories and discussions, including how did the world begin or what is the order of creation. Some knowledge teachings do not even require belief in God, guru, or any religions faith and are outside of any formality or ceremony. They state that all explanations of things belong to the mind. The truth is something that cannot be put into words, which is beyond all theories, outside of all beliefs. It has to be experienced in the state of seeing, which can only be learned through choiceless observation. Hence, Jnana Yoga is very simple, though very hard to do, as it requires going beyond our very mind and habitual though process.

Self Enquiry

The most basic practise of the Yoga of Knowledge is Self-enquiry (Atma Vichara). It consists of tracing the self or “I” thought to its origin. If we observe our minds carefully, we see that all thoughts are based upon the “I-thought.” We cannot think about anything without first having an idea about ourselves. But if we look deeply, we see that the “I” itself is something unknown to us.

We are constantly projecting our identity on some external object or quality: “I am this, this is mind.” We are constantly mixing this unknown “I” with some known thing. “I am good or bad; I am wise or foolish; I am happy or sad; I am a Hindu, Buddhist or Christian; I am an American or Russian: I am black or white or yellow.” All of these are thoughts in which the “I” is referred to an object that is really different from it. What the “I” is in itself we do not know and cannot know as long as we are projecting it on to something.

Our most basic projection is our self-image, which is our “I am the body” idea. Yet, we can observe our body grow and decline. We can perceive it as an instrument or vehicle we use but as different from who we really are. If we are perceptive, we can discern that our basic consciousness or state of seeing is ever pure, beyond all external changes. Though our body may age and our thoughts may change, our seeing is external. As long as we are identified with the body, or through it with any external thing, we must suffer, because all external things are transient and we long for eternal and permanent happiness. Our very longing for this lasting happiness is proof of our nature in consciousness as blissful and pure.

This does not mean that the body is bad or sinful or to be denied. It is the best vehicle nature can provide. Yet is only a vehicle. It is no more who we are than our car is. In no longer identifying with the body, we come to treat it properly and no longer abuse it for personal gratification.”

Deepam 2009

For those who have been in touch asking about the date of Deepam 2009, I present below Deepam dates for the next four years. The date quoted is that that of Bharani Deepam - the day on which the flame is actually lit on top of Arunachala.

Right-click on photo to enlarge

Deepam 2009 ----- December 1st, 2009
Deepam 2010 ----- November 21st, 2010
Deepam 2011 ----- December 8th, 2011
Deepam 2012 ----- November 27th, 2012

Power of Self Enquiry

Annamalai Swami (1906-1995) since his childhood had a natural inclination towards spirituality. He came to Sri Ramana in 1928 and got a job with the Ashram. After being closely involved in many construction projects he shifted to Palakottu near the Ashram to live alone and meditate:-

‘In 1928, a wandering sadhu gave me a copy a Upadesa Undiyar by Sri Ramana. It contained a photo of the Maharshi. As soon as I saw the photo I had the feeling that this was my Guru. Simultaneously, an intense desire arose within me to go and see him. That night I had a dream in which I saw the Maharshi walking from the lower slopes of the hill towards the Ashram. Next morning I decided to go and have his darshan.

Having arrived at about 1 p.m., when I approached the hall, a part of the dream I had repeated itself in real life. I saw Bhagavan walk down at me in silence for about 10-15 minutes, I had a great feeling of physical relief and relaxation. It was like immersing myself in a cool pool after being in the hot sun. I asked for permission to stay, which was granted and I a got as Bhagavan's attendant. At that time Madhava Swami was doing the job by himself.

About ten days after my arrival I asked Bhagavan how I could attain Self-realisation? He replied, "If you give up identifying with the body and meditate on the Self, you can attain Self-realisation." As I was pondering over these remarks, Bhagavan supervised me by saying, "I was waiting for you. I was wondering when you would come." As a newcomer I was too afraid to ask him how he knew, or how long he had been waiting. But I was delighted to hear him speak like this because it seemed to indicate that it was my destiny to stay with him.

A few days later asked, "Scientists have invented and produced the aircraft which can travel at great speed in the sky. Why do you not give us a spiritual aircraft in which we can quickly and easily cross over the sea of samsara?" Bhagavan replied, "The path of self-enquiry is the aircraft you need. It is direct, fast, and easy to use. You are already travelling very quickly towards realisation. It is only because of your mind that it seems that there is no movement." In the years that followed, I had many spiritual talks with Bhagavan but his basic message never changed. It was always: "Do self-enquiry, stop identifying with the body and try to be aware of the Self, which is your real nature."’

A Father's Love

Samudram Evening

Walking about Samudram Erie is a favourite for my doggies and I, and I've previously posted many photographs of the hitherto unspoilt area. However things are changing and currently unchecked illegal sand quarrying occurs in this area, not only through the night but also during the day. Hopefully good results (for the sake of conservation) in the upcoming elections might change local dynamics and result in the people currently involved in sand quarrying being prevented from futher damaging our beautiful 750 acre natural reservoir.

The actual name Samudra means - sea of syrup (one of the seven seas), a gathering of the waters above and under the firmament and an ocean of virtues and auspiciousness.

There is an epigraph chiselled in the masonry at the Tiruvannamalai Temple dated 1317 which describes the glory of King Vallaladeva’s reign at Arunasamudra, an ancient name for Tiruvannamalai.

“From the lotus of [Vishnu's] navel arose Brahma, the creator of all men. From his mind was born Atri. Then Soma [the moon] was born in his eye. In [his family] was born the king Someswara. To him was born Narasimha who was like a lion to his elephant-like opponents. From him whose gifts eclipse those of the heavenly tree [the kalpa-vriksha or wish-fulfilling tree] whose wealth eclipses that of Kubera [the god of wealth] … and whose prowess eclipses that of the terrible blaze emanating from the forehead eye of the God having the bull as His vehicle [i.e. Siva] was born the king Vallaladeva.

The illustrious King Vallaladeva, possessing all auspicious things, was staying at his capital, which was distinguished by the name Aruna-samudra (earlier name for Tiruvannamalai), belonging to the Hoysala kingdom, which was established with love by his father, which possessed the wealth of a kingdom, and which was the abode of real riches.”

A Samudram Story

There is a fascinating story connected with the idols of Venugopalaswami and his Devis; Rukumini and Satyabhama, whose shrine is located immediately behind the Siva Sannidhi inside the Arunachaleswarar Temple. The story goes like this:

“It seems the statues were originally in a small Vaisnava Village or Agrahara near the large tank ‘Samudram’ about two miles to the south of Sri Arunachala Temple. The people of the village during certain festivals used to carry the Utsava murtis from there to Tirukoilur about 20 miles away. Tirukoilur is a Vaisnava centre with a large Vishnu Temple having a big gopuram on each of sides with no enclosure walls. The Vasinava inhabitants were over-zealous people. Every time the Saiva idols from Sri Arunachala Temple passed by to go round the hill the Vaisnava villagers would obstruct its progress. Repeated complaints of their behaviour were made to the Chola king of that period. The king himself it is said came to verify the complaint and when he was satisfied he worked out a strategy.

During a certain festival the king ordered that all the people of that village near the Samudram to go in procession to Tirukoilur. When they were gone, he had the images of Venugopal and his Devis removed from that Temple and had them installed immediately at the back of Sri Arunachala shrine. When this news reached Tirukoilur, the Utsava murtis were kept in the Temple there and the agraharam near the Samudram was abandoned by its inhabitants. It is also said that the property of the Temple goes in the name of Venugopala Swami to indicate that Arunachaleswarar is worshipped by Lord Vishnu in this Temple.”

[Extract from ‘Arunachalam’]

Arunachaleswarar Temple Shivaratri 2009

The below photographs are a beautiful pictorial history of Shivaratri 2009 as celebrated at Arunachaleswarar Temple.

Right-click on each photograph for a larger representation.

Nayanmar Poosalaar

Here is a beautiful and inspirational story about Poosalaar, an ardent devotee who enshrined Lord Shiva in his heart. Poosalaar is one of the Nayanmars stated in the Periyapuranam (lives of 63 Tamil Nadu saints).

The Legend

"His heart was large enough to house Shiva's temple and his love served to implement the task with ease.”

Thirunindravur, near Chennai once saw the outpour of devotion of a devout heart as well as the reciprocated grace as a result of the intense devotion. Poosalaar, was a poor man in terms of material wealth but rich in dedicated devotion towards Lord Shiva. His heart brimmed with love and devotion for the Lord. He was called Poosalaar as his body was always smeared with the sacred ash, (Tamil-Poosu-Apply). Bhagavan Ramana says that the right kind of desire on the spiritual path will condition an aspirant to become one with the divine ultimately. Poosalaar was not an exception to this and he yearned to erect a beautiful temple for his heart's favourite. However he became the object of people's ridicule for his herculean desire in his impoverished condition.

Poosalaar however was not deterred by the words of the people. His heart was large enough to house Shiva's temple and his love served to implement the task with ease. Meanwhile Rajasimha Pallava, the King of Kanchi had undertaken the task of erecting a temple for Lord Shiva. On the completion of the task, the king wanted it to be named Rajasimeswaram and duly consecrated. Hence the king fixed a date for the consecration. The day before the assigned date the king's heart was brimming with pride of having erected a beautiful temple for the Lord as his eyes shut with his thoughts vanishing into his sleep. And Lo! The Lord appeared in his dream and stated that He will not be able make present Himself in the consecration ceremony as He will be present in the consecration ceremony of another temple built by an ardent devotee, Poosalaar. Hence the king was asked by the Lord to choose another date to have Him installed ceremoniously on another day in the temple built by him.

Rajagopuram of Poosala Nayanar Temple

The surprised king immediately commanded the culmination of the ceremonies associated with the temple consecration and proceeded to check out on the temple of Poosalaar. Coming to know that Poosalaar lived in a nearby town he set out towards Thirunindravoor. The king was perplexed on the results of his enquiry that Poosalaar lived in poverty and there was not a sign of a new temple being erected in Thirunindravoor. Counting on the Lord's words, the King sought to meet Poosalaar who was meditating under a tree. The king approached Poosalaar and stated the purpose of his visit. Poosalaar replied with joy to have a look at the ceremonious installation of Lord Shiva in the temple that he had built. Lo and Behold! The king witnessed the consecration ceremony of the temple built by Poosalaar within the heart of Poosalaar, with the chanting of the Vedas and other ceremonial activities!

It was then that the king realized that the poor devotee had visualized his desire stage by stage within his heart, surrendering his will and wish to his beloved Lord. The pure devotion and the unconditional love for the Lord had led the almighty to be enshrined in his heart forever. The king then materialized the temple that Poosalaar had built in the cavern of his heart before having the temple built by him duly consecrated. He called the deity 'Irudhayaleeswarar', the one who abides in the heart.

“The story symbolically represents the Vedic principle of seeking the lord within one's heart and to ultimately lose oneself in Him”

About the temple

Thirunindravoor, the place where the temple of Irudhayaleeswarar is situated is located in the Kanchipuram district of Tamil Nadu near Chennai. The inner roof of the temple is fashioned like that of a heart divided into four compartments probably displaying Poosalaar's conception. Parvati here is worshipped as Maragathambigai. Poosalaar's statue is found with folded hands in the shrine of Irudhayaleeeswarar. Irudhayaleeswarar is also worshipped as Manavaleswarar. People with an ailing heart is said to flock to this temple for speedy recovery due to Irudhayaleeswarar's grace.

Hrudayaliswarar Temple

The story of this temple states that the Lord surrenders to the ambit of a devotee's pure devotion and not extravaganza. The story symbolically represents the Vedic principle of seeking the lord within one's heart and to ultimately lose oneself in Him indivisibly. Poosalaar sought the Lord within Himself which led to His liberation from the cycle of birth and death. In the words of Ramana Maharshi, the greatest form of bhakti or devotion is to find and identify Him within oneself."

[By Priya Devi]

Street Performers during Shivaratri

The below sequence of photographs were taken around the time of the Shivaratri Festival; and show street performers and musicians on the streets of Tiruvannmalai.

Many of these performers are Hijras who constitute a third sex or third gender in India as they are regarded as neither men nor women.

You can read more about the Hijras at this link here.

Shivaratri Festival

I am reproducing below a narrative compiled by William Forbes that explains the mythology of Shivaratri and also the grand association of the Pashupatinath (Lord of Animal Life) Temple at Kathmandu, Nepal. For more information about Shivaratri -- The Eternal Festival and more about this Temple, check out this earlier posting. To find out more about Shivaratri and also specifically how it is celebrated at other significant Shiva stalams, read on.

"This year, on the 23rd of February, Mahashivaratri is celebrated throughout India, Nepal, and the world, by devotees of Lord Shiva. Mahashivaratri means "the great night of Shiva". It is celebrated on the 14th night of the waning moon, (the dark moon night before the new moon), during the month of Phalgun. There are a number of legends connected with the origin of Shivaratri. One is that Goddess Parvati and Lord Shiva were married on this day.

This is also the day that Lord Shiva appeared as a luminous Jyotirlingam before Brahma and Vishnu. All the twelve Jyotirlingams of Bharat (India) are said to have manifested on this day.

Jyotir Lingam Stalams

The Shiva Purana relates a story of Maha Shivaratri's glory –

In ancient times, a Bheel (forest inhabitant) named Gurudruha trudged through a forest to hunt deer. At night, without having sighted a single animal, he climbed a Bilva (Aegle marmelos) tree on the banks of a lake. Later at night, a doe arrived to drink water. Gurudruha aimed his bow and arrow at her. While aiming, he unknowingly dropped some Bilva leaves and his drinking water below on a Shivalingam that happened to be under the tree. The deer then requested him to allow her to entrust her fawns to her husband, after which she would return. After much haggling he agreed.


While awaiting her return, he stayed awake by aimlessly plucking leaves and dropping them below. Again they fell on the Shivalingam. Thus he unknowingly performed its puja (worship) while remaining awake all night. Finally the doe returned with her family, She informed him that along with her, he'd have to kill her family too. As he aimed, some more leaves fluttered down on the Shivalingam.


The collective punya (spiritual merit) accrued from the puja performed unknowingly, eradicated all his sins. This purified his heart. Repenting his flawed life of sin, he set the deer free. As he sat repenting, Lord Shiva manifested in front of him and granted him a boon, "You shall be born in a town known as Shrungver, as a man named Gruha. Lord Vishnu will grace your home as Lord Rama and redeem you." (This event is described in the Ramayana.) Shiva also blessed the deer, which attained a better destiny.

On this day it is easy to please Lord Shiva by fasting and prayer. The main prayer is usually conducted during the night. Ever three hours the devotee worships Lord Shiva in the form of a Shiva Lingam. the Lingam is bathed with milk, ghee, honey, curd, rose water, etc. Lord Shiva is also greatly pleased by the offering of Bilva leaves. One also devotes time to chanting the Vedic Rudram, or the five-syllable mantra of Shiva - Om Namah Shivaya - and to meditating on Him, by remembering one's ultimate goal, which is God Realization, the purpose of human birth. Ascending to the top of Mount Kailash within oneself, and trying to experience the presence of God Shiva within as one's very own self, and simultaneously as the Universal Self permeating the entire universe, one draws close to Lord Shiva. on this night.

For more than a week before and after Shivaratri, the area around Pashupatinath Temple is transformed into a mammoth fair of sorts, with food stalls, pavement markets and clusters of temporary shelters where life-styles and human activities of a mind-boggling variety can be witnessed. Colorful costumes of the many different ethnic and tribal pilgrims from India sporting intriguing headgear, ranging from turbans to towels around the scalp; long flowing dresses, pantaloons and loin cloths, along with the women's colorful sarees, all form a fascinating contrast to the many Sadhu-Babas and Yogis in their birthday suits. People fill the roads - holy men, some half clad, some covered in ash but entirely nude; pilgrims in their distinct and colorful tribal costumes; vendors selling practically everything from vermilion powder, Rudraksha beads, monkey nuts, to Coca Cola and snacks. Foreign tourists also form part of this vast collection of humanity.

Pashupatinath Temple, Katmandu, Nepal

During Shivaratri, the temple of Pashupatinath, dedicated to Lord Shiva, becomes all spruced up in anticipation of the arrival of Sadhus, Yogis and other holy men as well as the hundreds of thousands of devout Hindu pilgrims. All devout Hindus believe that a visit to the holy Pashupatinath temple will absolve them of all past sins and the preference to make this pilgrimage during the time of Shivaratri, and assure them of a good human birth in their next life.

Hindu sadhu burns cowdung cakes to perform some holy rituals in the revered Pashupati area in Kathmandu. Hundreds of devotees from different parts of Nepal and India have been coming to the area to celebrate Maha Shivaratri festival that falls on February 23rd.

On the day of Mahashivaratri, people gather on the hillside across the river from the Pashupatinath temple as well as around the vicinity of the temple complex in groups around campfires and in makeshift shelters, singing Bhajans, reciting Sanskrit verses, discussing various religious topics while maintaining a fast and a vigil in anticipation of the religious ceremonies. Marijuana smoking mendicants, many with long matted tresses, dot the area, serene and trance-like, emulating Lord Shiva himself, in their consumption of the sacred herb, either by smoking it in clay chillum pipes, or by eating bhang.

At midnight Shivaratri festival officially begins with the priests inside the main temple making offerings of the auspicious Pancha Amrit to the Lingam of Lord Shiva. All day and throughout the night, devotees in an almost never-ending stream, file through the gates of the main temple to sprinkle milk, flowers, coins and rice offerings on the Lingam of Lord Shiva to be followed by a ritualistic bath in the river every few hours as dictated by the rituals.

At about six o'clock in the morning priests start the recitation of sacred texts which can be heard for miles around being amplified through loud-speakers strategically spread all over the Pashupatinath temple complex. This chanting of prayers continues till mid-day followed by the singing of Bhajans. The mammoth turnout of pilgrims is such, that devotees and believers are still involved in the elaborate religious activities many days after the actual night of fasting. As is inevitable after a period of fasting, there is the ritual partaking of food and sweetmeats following the festivities of Shivaratri. Naturally there are vast numbers of food-stalls selling many varieties of food and sweets.

Sadhus

For the devout Hindus who come from far away to experience the Shivaratri festivities and take a dip in the holy waters of the Bagmati river, it is often a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

For non-Hindus, Shivaratri offers a fascinating insight into a very important religious event as well an opportunity to see diverse cultures, peoples and costumes with the most gawked at and photographed being the Hindu holy men - the Sadhus and Yogis, smeared in ash, their foreheads striated with many different and intriguing designs under many different types of hair-do. Completely naked ascetics, with rings in their genitals roam through the crowds, mindless of the stares and glances and to the intense cold of the Himalayan winter, having mastered their minds to withstand the heat, cold and inhibition of all types."