Tenth Night and Ayyankulam Tank

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The light still blazes through the night on the top of Arunachala, but the festivities of the Deepam Festival are over. Below are a few photographs of the latter days of the Festival. The first two photographs are of the evening of the 10th day.




Murtis of the 5 Gods giving
darshan to devotees outside the Temple



Golden Rishaba (bull) procession
rounding Temple perimeter walls


The lighting of the Mahadeepam takes place on the 10th day of the Festival after which in the evenings of the following three nights, the Gods are taken for a sailing trip on the waters of the very large Ayyankulam Tank.

The Ayyankulam is the tank of the famous Arunagirinathar Temple, which is the third most renowned Shiva Temple at Tiruvannamalai after Arunachaleswarar Temple and Adiannamalai Temple. The Arunagirinathar Temple is in fact one of my favourite Tiruvannamalai Temples and I encourage more pilgrims to visit it while at Tiruvannamalai.



Crowds at the Ayyankulam Tank
to watch the Gods on their float


To view photographs of Temples and Shrines on the perimeter of the Ayyankulam Tank, go to this link here. And to see the view from Ayyankulam Tank, go to this link here.



The Gods float setting
out on the Ayyankulam Tank


Most of the crowds have left Tiruvannamalai, and the town is slowly returning to normal. And yet we can look up and still see the blazing beacon on top of Arunachala, and look in and see the Blessing hand of Annamalaiyar.




The Blessing hand of Annamalaiyar
at 2011 Deepam

2011 Karthigai Maha Deepam

The below extract and video is a narrative about the celebration of Karthigai Deepam at the Arunachaleswarar Temple. I hope to soon post either photographs or a video of the lighting of the 2011 Deepam cauldron at the top of Arunachala. But for now, this is what happens at the Temple:

“All across India, millions of bonfires are lit on hills and in temples on Krittika Deepam. But nowhere is this festival celebrated like it is at Tiruvannamalai. Here it is unique. Krittika Deepam occurs annually in the lunar month of Kartika, which occurs in November/December, on the last day of the 10-day festival called Brahmotsavam.

It is on this auspicious day that, at approximately 6:00 in the evening, a sacred fire is lit on top of the 2,668 foot Arunachala mountain to symbolize the merging of all manifest existence back into the one source of all things. It is said that those who witness this sacred ceremony personally receive the blessings of Siva and Parvati. All of the traditional temple rituals that are performed during Brahmotsavam create a spiritual fervency that culminate with great power on Krittika Deepam as a grand congregation of devotees, holy men, officials, police personnel and media squeeze together, shoulder to shoulder, to witness the festival's magnificent consummation.

As the day wanes into dusk and night begins to darken the sky, pilgrims stand or sit, motionless with anticipation, at the base of Arunachala mountain, preparing to worship God Siva as an infinite pillar of light.

By 5:00 in the evening, the area surrounding the Temple flagpole, as well as the adjoining terrace, is packed. People are grabbing seats to observe the dramatic arrival of five exquisitely decorated palanquins, carrying the Hindu Gods Vinayaka, Subramanya, Siva, Amba and Chandikeshwara. The devotees are constantly moving and adjusting their positions to get a better view and to make way for still more people pouring in.

Suddenly, the crowd's attention shifts to the Temple entrance from behind the flag pole. Some devotees jump up to get a better view. The first palanquin arrives with a dramatic flair. It's the Vinayaka Deity, a form of Lord Ganesha. Exquisitely bedecked with a variety of flowers artistically arranged, this relatively small Deity seems magically large in its luxurious setting. More than eight people are carrying the heavy wooden palanquin. They dance with graceful dignity to the accompaniment of temple music, devotional singing and Sanskrit prayers. Soon enough, they reach their designated position in front of the flag pole and come to a stop.

In a few minutes, the next palanquin arrives “Subramanya”. It's a little bigger. Unmindful of its weight, those who are carrying this celestial cargo somehow manage to dance with abandon, rocking the Deity joyously.

Now another palanquin is arriving, rocking to and fro. "Swami, Swami," the crowd shouts. Here, "Swami" is referring to Siva. Amba (Goddess Parvati) is right behind, followed by Chandikeshwara.

Within about 30 minutes, five palanquins have arrived in all their spiritual pageantry.

Finally, the appointed moment arrives. Against the backdrop of a sunset sky, crowned with the rising star of Kartika, thundering firecrackers, ringing Temple bells and a frenzy of rhythmic chanting merge to create a cacophony of chaotic splendor. Camphor is lit in a cauldron by the Temple flag pole, signaling priests on top of the mountain to light their flame.

The timing is perfectly synchronized

When that flame is seen by the thousands of devotees below, the entire countryside explodes with flashing luminescence. Bonfires, lamps, neon lights and fireworks light the night like day as a surging, thronging, emotionally charged mass of devotees chant, "Arunachala Siva," "Annamalai” and "Annamalai Harohara”. The sight of the Krittika Deepam is magical. It brings an inexplicable joy. People are ecstatic, mesmerized by the light.





The air is charged as the overpowering sight of light, signifying Siva in the form of Jyoti (divine light), merges with Parvati to become Siva/Sakti. Now, finally, Ardhanarishvara is brought out of the Temple with great ceremonial fanfare. This is the only day of the year that this particular Deity is ever moved. It is most auspicious.

To learn more about the 'Legend of Ardhanarishvara' at Arunachala go to this link here.

The Temple is closed for a day after Krittika Deepam, because it is believed that, when Arunachala manifested Himself in the Deepam, He temporarily shifted His abode from the temple to the hilltop.

Long-time pilgrims assert that, even years later, the very thought of an otherworldly moment like this recreates it, just as if it is happening fresh and new.“

[Edited extract from ‘Fire on the Mountain’]

Bharani Deepam 2011 video

The below is an excellent, recommended video taken of Bharani Deepam two days ago on December 8, 2011. Bharani Deepam occurs early in the morning, before daybreak, and is an essential part of the day's proceedings. Go to this link here for my earlier posting on the 2011 Bharani Deepam

Maharadham - Big Chariot

To watch a short video of this year's Maharadham procession, check out the below video. Gents pull the chariot from the right, and ladies from the left.







So how does it all work? First off we have the sweet Rukku, the Temple elephant surveying the area. She precedes many of the chariot processions and activities throughout the Deepam Festival.






From early morning, devotees have lined up, in order to enter the top of the Big Chariot, so that they may take darshan of the gods Annamalaiyar and Unnamulai. To reach the Gods, devotees have to climb to the top of a connecting building and cross a tunnel that leads directly into the top of the Big Chariot.





In the below photograph, you can see the yellow building connecting to the Big Chariot and the tunnel corridor leading from one to the other.




Devotees are milling about on Car Street around the chariots. But it will be hours before the Big Chariot is ready to move.






The photographs give one an idea of the vast size of the chariot.The devotees at the top of the chariot with their backs to us, are facing the murtis and taking their darshan.





The massive chains that will be used to pull the vast vehicle are lying on the pavement ahead of the Chariot.





Gents will be pulling the chariot from the right side, and ladies from the left side.




The chariot needs help, specifically when going around corners. So to control the direction of the vehicle, wooden chocs are placed under the massive wheels, and a number of lads and young men, jump up and down on wooden levers.




The levers themselves are heavy, solid planks of wood, so to move them under the wheels, a system of ropes and pulleys has been devised.





Progress around the outside of the 26 acre perimeter of the Arunachaleswarar Temple, is very slow, and it will be late in the night when the Big Chariot has completed its circumambulation of the Big Temple.

2011 Karthigai Mahadeepam

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First sight of the Deepam of the 2011 Karthigai Deepam Festival from the Samudram Erie. The sounds of cheers and fireworks ring through the air.




As dusk quickly falls, the light on Arunachala becomes easier to see.




And now, even in the light of the moon that tomorrow will be full, the Deepam on top of Arunachala blazes like a beacon for miles around.




HAPPY AND BLESSED DEEPAM TO ONE AND ALL


Will soon post photographs of the actual cauldron Deepam lighting at the top of Arunachala, do check back.

2011 Mahadeepam Live telecasts

The below TV channels will probably be only available in Tamil Nadu.

Maha Deepam DD Live:
Live telecast by Doordarshan Podhigai (DD1) from 4.15 pm on December 8, 2011 (Thursday).
Vasanth TV will live telecast Maha Deepam from around 4 pm.



On line Live Streaming
One can see live streaming of Karthigai Mahadeepam on:

http://www.vasanth.tv/livetv.php from Temple
http://www.sriramanamaharshi.org/ from Ramana Ashram

and most probably also on websites listed below:

http://www.dinamalar.com/thiruvannamalai_live_video.asp Temple
http://www.svbcttd.com/ Temple
http://srisankaratv.com/ Temple

Sri Nannagaru Deepam Darshan

Sri Nannagaru traditionally visits Arunachala about four times a years. And one of those times (thus far) has generally been over the Deepam Festival. Sri Nannagaru hails from Jinnuru, Andhra Pradesh and visited Arunachala for the first time in 1957. He had taken Sri Ramana Maharshi as his guru, and had come to Tiruvannamalai to visit the samadhi of the great sage. It was while here that Sri Nannagaru began to understand the power of Arunachala. Within a few years of that visit, Swamiji had achieved the state of self-realisation, which he considers was given to him through the grace of Arunachala-Ramana.

Consequently one of Sri Nannagaru's missions in life is to encourage devotees to visit and develop a connection with Arunachala and also to inculcate his devotees with the teachings of Self Enquiry. A number of Sri Nannagaru devotees have now settled at Arunachala, and many others follow Sri Nannagaru from Andhra Pradesh on his periodic visits to this place.





As the puja was going on, buses and coaches continued to arrive at the Ashram filled with devotees who had travelled from Andhra Pradesh.

Today, this morning of Karthigai Deepam, crowds of Sri Nannagaru's devotees awaited his attendance at a puja and cow puja being performed at Swamiji's countryside Ashram.





And now Guruji Sri Nannagaru has come down from his room to attend the ongoing puja and later on the cow puja which was to be performed on the grounds of the Ashram.








The officiating priest was Sridhar, who used to be one of the senior priests at Sri Ramana Ashram.








And after the puja was complete Swami walked amongst many of his devotees to receive their prasad, answer questions and give his blessings.

My Tamil friend from Malaysia, Yogeshwari (who was experiencing her second Deepam Festival at Arunachala) and I waited upstairs outside Swami's room.




We received a word and prasad from Swamiji and thereafter we went back downstairs for a very delicious Andhra style lunch.

A very nice beginning to a very special day.

Cattle Fair, Tiruvannamalai 2011

One of the traditions of Deepam at Tiruvannamalai, is that each year during the Festival, there is a Cattle Fair. The fair is packed by farmers and traders either selling their livestock, or on the lookout to make a purchase. There are cows, buffaloes, horses and ponies, and its always a delight to walk amidst the hundreds of creatures tethered in the fields around the base of the Hill.

Quite appropriately the large open ground outside the Animal Sanctuary this year, is one of the areas most densely packed with livestock. But not just in the fields, also lining up on each side of Chengam Road, strong, healthy looking bullocks lie serenely chewing on hay. Good holiday for them!








As well as the fields of livestock, there are also stalls upon stalls selling various implements, ropes and adornments for cows, buffaloes and horses.







Some of the horses this year are so pretty, I was seriously tempted to bring a couple home to join my doggie family. Itching to fatten them up and give them a good brushing.







The annual Deepam Cattle Fair, just another part of the fun and excitement of the Festival.

Bharani Deepam 2011, Arunachala

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Preparations for this day begin one month in advance with the local administration, revenue department, police and temple authorities. Since early morning, temple staff and volunteers have been carrying five-gallon containers of ghee and large pots of thick, braided cloth wicks to the top of Arunachala mountain.

As you are reading this, town's people and pilgrims from far afield, are climbing Arunachala some in order to secure a good viewing point for the evening's lighting of the 2011 Deepam cauldron and others so that they can personally deliver their ghee offerings to top of Arunachala.

Just after the early morning temple ceremony, five earthern pots were lit. These ghee-filled pots, represent the sacred elements earth, air, fire, water and ether. As these five flames loom up with red-yellow light, the famous festival of Karthigai Deepam officially begins.

A single flame is then taken from the pots and kept burning in the Temple throughout the day as a symbol of the merging of manifestation back into God, the one source of all. This single flame is referred to as the Bharani Deepam.


Five Earthernware Pots














Significance

"There is immense significance in this ceremony called Bharani Deepam. At this time, the universal Lord manifests as the five elements, which will later fully merge to become one when the Krittika Deepam flame is lit in the evening. From one to many and many to one. This is the whole essence of Saivism and the meaning of Krittika Deepam."

Around 10:00 a.m. this Bharani morning, a group of fishermen were blessed by a priest in a ceremony at the Temple. Amidst ringing bells and temple music, the priest gave the fishermen a lamp that has been lit from the Bharani Deepam in the Temple. This lamp, also called Bharani Deepam, is currently being taken to the top of the Hill by fishermen from hereditary fishing families. Others of the same hereditary fishing family will remain at the Temple and this evening light the Deepam flame outside the Arunachaleswarar Siva Sannidhi.

One of the reasons that fishermen and not Brahmin priests are traditionally given the privilege of carrying the Bharani Deepam up the mountain and lighting the Krittika Deepam in the evening both on Arunachala and outside the Arunachaleswarar Siva Sannidhi, is because according to a myth, Parvati (the wife of Lord Siva) was born in a fishing family.

Blessing the Deepam Cauldron

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Very early this morning Puja was performed at the Arunachaleswarar Temple on the Deepam cauldron with sweet Ruku, the Temple elephant and one of the cows from the Temple goshala in interested attendance.

Many years previously, the Deepam pot used to remain on top of Arunachala throughout the year, and was only replaced after several years of use and weathering from exposure on the Hill, had irreparably damaged it. Nowadays, the pot is carried up Arunachala a few days before Mahadeepam. And after the Festival is over, brought back down the Hill and stored at the Arunachaleswarar Temple.





The pot started its slow ascent up the side of the Hill before dawn. And by daybreak the carriers have already reached nearly half way up the Hill.




Those who have climbed the Hill, from the Temple and Virupaksha side know only too well of the rough, uneven path. Progress is slow, but progress is certain.




Before long the Temple Cauldron will have reached its destination as beacon light on top of Holy Arunachala.

Deepam and Ramana Maharshi

One Deepam Day a disciple wrote the following and laid it at the Feet of Sri Bhagavan with the request that he should write another verse showing the significance of the Beacon that is yearly lighted on the top of Arunachala.

SELF is the centre, e’en the Heart it is
That thus reveals itself, while intellect
And ego both bewail.
This the true meaning of Annamalai,
Amidst Brahma and Vishnu blazing bright,
Who languish because they don’t know the way
To realize Him.

The Hill Arunachala is identified with the spiritual heart of creation of God. This appeared to the Gods, Brahma and Vishnu as a blazing column of fire. They wondered what it could be and started in competition with each other to find out its source. Brahma flew up as a swan and Vishnu started to burrow down in the form of a boar. But the search was endless. Vishnu came up again admitting his defeat. On his way Brahma caught a flower that was falling and taking it down to Vishnu pretended that he had reached the top and had there picked this flower. Suddenly Lord Siva, who had taken the form of the column of fire, appeared to them. He condemned Brahma for his deceit and said that as a punishment he should have no temple dedicated to his honour. As a reward for his honesty Vishnu was told that he should receive universal worship.

Striving to reach the end of the column of fire signifies the search in the Heart for the realization of the Self and all the difficulties thus entailed.

Bhagavan said in explanation that the ‘I’-sense was Vishnu and the intellect Brahma, they both turned outward and that is where they failed.

The Significance of the Beacon

Sri Bhagavan wrote: -

To make the intellect rid of the sense
‘I am the body’, and to introspect
By fixing it securely in the Heart,
And so perceive the true light of the SELF,
The one ‘I-I’, which is the ABSOLUTE,
This the significance of witnessing
The Beacon Light of Arunachala,
The centre of the earth.

Bhagavan used to declare that Arunachala was the spiritual axis of the earth. So definite was he that he once made someone get an atlas and see if there was not some other mountain, the other end of the axis, corresponding to this Hill on the other side of the world.

Maharadham Day

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To get a sense of the excitement and colour of today and Maharadham, read the below narrative written about a previous Deepam.

“Three days before the lighting of the Light, it is Big Car Day.

There are several Big Cars, huge wooden carts carved with fabulous mythological figures telling all the stories, with the biggest wheels in the world; the biggest car dwarfs all the buildings in town except the giant temple towers. It is called The Big Car.



Carrying Babies on sugarcane poles

On this day parents or family members also carry their babies around the procession route. They string a sari on a sugar-cane pole which they support on their shoulders making a hammock for the child. The babies carried are ones whose parents asked Arunachala to bless them with so they are carried in thanksgiving.



Gods in procession inside Temple

The splendid bronze figures of Annamalai and Unnamalai - male and female personifications of Arunachala, are heavily garlanded and bejeweled, seated up on The Biggest Car; the towering edifice is covered with long strips of embroidered cloth and gigantic flower garlands. There are several big cars pulled before and after The Big Car; there’s a women-only one carrying Abhithakuchalambal, and there’s also a kids’ car, which trails flamboyantly at the end.

It's all stupendously awesome.


Vinayagar Radham

Years ago we used to walk in to watch the Big Car come up the incline of one main street around midday; we’d all have lunch in ashram and then everyone would make their way around to the east face of the hill to meet the gods coming up Thiruvoodal street. But now there are so many pilgrims that the schedule has extended interminably. Inauspicious times of the day intervene so the proceedings stop until the bad hour has passed, and there’s also the time when suddenly everyone goes home for lunch.

That year it was evening before the Big Car reached that street. My daughter’s two children - Hari and Ani - were very young so we secured a protected view from the balcony of a cloth shop half way down the incline, long before the towering, tottering, embroidered, garlanded Big Car - with it’s flouncing umbrella on the very top, appeared above the roofs of the shops and maneuvered itself into position for the strenuous haul up towards Arunachala.

Upon the up-roaring signal of its visibility from the crowd, Hari dropped his pile of coat-hangers and rushed to be held up over the balcony. His eyes popped, his ears flapped. Even though we’d seen it before, nothing can prepare us for the majesty of its annual sight. Below us the street was a sea of heads; all balconies and rooftops up and down the street full of faces and now that the Big Car appeared, bodies behind us pressed forward, pushing us onto the balcony rails festooned with dubious electrical fairy lights. It’s quite exciting.


The Great Maharadham

Since the divinities are coming, dedicated persons don’t wear shoes. This year we noticed one Policewoman wearing socks to protect her dainty feet from the yucky street. About five thousand pilgrims pull the cart around the temple circuit-route, ladies on one side and gents on the other. When the car stops, big chocks of heavy wood are wedged underneath the enormous wheels while the pullers take a rest and offerings are made to their majesties the gods. When ready to start again, young men with enthusiasm climb up onto the chocks with poles to steady themselves, and on signal they jump up and down on the slanted chocks until their force pushes the wheels forward, giving momentum for the pullers to haul the cart further up the street.

Looking down into the crowd below as the cart passed beneath us, we were treated to a seething mass of human energy - drums beating in time to muscles, bystanders shouting encouragement, enormous wheels slowly turning, the carving on the cart creaking, embroidery panels blowing in the wind, garlands wavering about, lucky little boys sitting up high lowering cloth carry bags on strings for people to send up coconuts and flowers, the Brahmin priests looking down impassively.

It’s the Brahmins particularly – the extravagant courtly costumes, the imperious faces staring down – that convey the true sense of the gods as majesties: as the most important personages in our world, out on a tour of the town, to be saluted by their adoring subjects. And a very large number of their adoring subjects are sweating, straining at the edge in the effort required to pull them. The Big Car teeters its way uphill until the momentum runs out. The chocks are wedged in again. Everyone breathes.

It will take about ten hours to circumnavigate the temple.”

[By Apeetha Arunagiri]

Rishaba Vahanam, 2011 Karthigai Deepam

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The silver Rishaba Vahanam is regarded as one of the more important processions over the Karthigai Deepam Festival. It generally occurs on the fifth night of the Festival, and as you can see from the huge crowds thronging the streets outside the Arunachaleswarar Temple, is very popular and is always well attended.

The Silver Bull

Lord Annamalaiyar

Huge crowds outside Temple

Wishfulfilling Cow and Tree

One of the most popular of the processions over the Deepam Festival, is that of the Kamadhenu, the wish fulfilling cow, and the Kalpavriksha, the wish fulfilling tree. Both of which emphasis the wish fulfilling aspect of Arunachala.



Kamadhenu, Wish Fulfilling Cow

The Kamadhenu is a divine cow-goddess described in mythology as the mother of all cows. She is the giver of plenty and provides the owner with whatever he desires.

Theories as to the origin of the Kamadhenu are two-fold. One scripture describes her as the daughter of the creator god Daksha, and another narrates that Kamadhenu emerged from the churning of the cosmic ocean.



Kalpavriksha, Wish Fulfilling Tree

The Kalpavriksha is a mythological divine tree said to fulfil all desires. Its mythology narrates that the wish-fulfilling tree also originates from the churning of the ocean of milk afterwhich the god Indra, returned with the tree to his paradise.



Kalpavriksha